how to remove suntour superbe front derailleur clamp
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
how to remove suntour superbe front derailleur clamp
This superbe front derailleur has one of the seperate clamps that attach to the derailleur by an allen head bolt in the face of the derailleur. The derailleur came off the clamp easily, but I can't figure out how to remove the clamp from the frame. It looks like there is a bolt stud slid through 2 ends of the clamp, and one end has to come over the bolt end to be removed. I don't see a way to do this without serious damage though.
Does anyone know how to do this? I'll get pics up later tonight if needed.
thanks in advance
Does anyone know how to do this? I'll get pics up later tonight if needed.
thanks in advance
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,664
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times
in
1,404 Posts
Slide the spacer block out from behind the bolt, that should give you enough room to push the bolt back, and lift the outer end of the clamp past it.
Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I like the frame disassembly idea, but this is a Fuji Opus 3....so I don't think so
There doesn't appear to be a spacer block. It looks like just the bolt. and the bolt won't move. there's a couple mm of space to move the bolt, but it just won't budge
There doesn't appear to be a spacer block. It looks like just the bolt. and the bolt won't move. there's a couple mm of space to move the bolt, but it just won't budge
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,664
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times
in
1,404 Posts
So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
#9
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,826
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 694 Times
in
371 Posts
So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#10
STFD
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: North Bergen, NJ
Posts: 778
Bikes: '80 Windsor Carrera Sport, '02 Specialized Sirrus A1, '10 Giant Escape 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.
Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.
If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.
Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.
If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.
#11
Banned.
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 84
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.
Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.
If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.
Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.
If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.
#12
cycles per second
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,930
Bikes: Early 1980's Ishiwata 022 steel sport/touring, 1986 Vitus 979, 1988 DiamondBack Apex, 1997 Softride PowerWing 700, 2001 Trek OCLV 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 71 Times
in
48 Posts
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times
in
741 Posts
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128
Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 150 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 34 Times
in
27 Posts
Oop's forgot about the Elmer's glue......
Chombi
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times
in
158 Posts
OK, I'm reviving this old thread. I have what I assume is the same front derailler as the OP (pic).
I'm thinking that the stud bolt should unscrew and that the "washer" on top of the clamp arms is actually part of the stud. I assume that once the stud is out the arms can be spread and the clamp removed, correct?
But also, the stud is in there good and I'm afraid of stripping it. Suggestions? LBS (yet again)? I've already hit it with penetrating oil.
I'm thinking that the stud bolt should unscrew and that the "washer" on top of the clamp arms is actually part of the stud. I assume that once the stud is out the arms can be spread and the clamp removed, correct?
But also, the stud is in there good and I'm afraid of stripping it. Suggestions? LBS (yet again)? I've already hit it with penetrating oil.
Last edited by jethin; 11-25-14 at 09:46 AM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Woodstock, IL
Posts: 96
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
__________________
'89 Trek 1200 ,'89 Trek 400 , '97 Trek 720 , '99 Trek 2200, '02 Trek 520.
'89 Trek 1200 ,'89 Trek 400 , '97 Trek 720 , '99 Trek 2200, '02 Trek 520.
#17
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,826
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 694 Times
in
371 Posts
Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times
in
158 Posts
Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,664
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times
in
1,404 Posts
Are you trying to save the FD, or simply remove it so you can mount another?
If it's only a matter of removing it, you can grab the stud with vice grips and try to turn it. Or if that fails, carefully saw through the band on the left side - where it's away from the frame - with a saw or Dremel.
If it's only a matter of removing it, you can grab the stud with vice grips and try to turn it. Or if that fails, carefully saw through the band on the left side - where it's away from the frame - with a saw or Dremel.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,783
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
9 Posts
Have you tried using a little penetrating oil to break it free? Apply a little PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight, then have a go with your best-fitting screwdriver.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times
in
158 Posts
Yes, I've tried penetrating oil. It's hard to get it in there and has had no effect so far. I don't want to strip this thing because I suppose they're pretty hard to come by.
#22
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,826
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 694 Times
in
371 Posts
Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times
in
158 Posts
You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.
Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Carlstadt, NJ
Posts: 404
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
It makes sense that that stud is super tight or else it would unscrew every time you removed the FD. Try leaving the bike outside. That little bit of shrinkage from getting cold might be enough to help break it free.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times
in
158 Posts
You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.
Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!