Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

how to remove suntour superbe front derailleur clamp

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

how to remove suntour superbe front derailleur clamp

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-11-10, 07:23 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
how to remove suntour superbe front derailleur clamp

This superbe front derailleur has one of the seperate clamps that attach to the derailleur by an allen head bolt in the face of the derailleur. The derailleur came off the clamp easily, but I can't figure out how to remove the clamp from the frame. It looks like there is a bolt stud slid through 2 ends of the clamp, and one end has to come over the bolt end to be removed. I don't see a way to do this without serious damage though.

Does anyone know how to do this? I'll get pics up later tonight if needed.

thanks in advance
fadetoblack6902 is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 07:49 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
post a picture
reptilezs is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 08:14 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
here's a pic. I forgot to mention there are little tabs on the top and bottom, and I have them pryed up already.
fadetoblack6902 is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 08:18 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
fadetoblack6902 is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 08:33 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,664

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times in 1,404 Posts
Slide the spacer block out from behind the bolt, that should give you enough room to push the bolt back, and lift the outer end of the clamp past it.

Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 08:38 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I like the frame disassembly idea, but this is a Fuji Opus 3....so I don't think so

There doesn't appear to be a spacer block. It looks like just the bolt. and the bolt won't move. there's a couple mm of space to move the bolt, but it just won't budge
fadetoblack6902 is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 09:01 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,664

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times in 1,404 Posts
So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 09:08 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
wow how did I miss that? sure are threads. Thanks for the awesome eyes!
fadetoblack6902 is offline  
Old 11-11-10, 10:48 PM
  #9  
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,826
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 694 Times in 371 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
That is exactly correct. I miss old Suntour stuff. Sometimes they did this sort of extraordinarily complex stuff just to prove they could.
__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline  
Old 11-12-10, 12:32 AM
  #10  
STFD
 
mcgreivey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: North Bergen, NJ
Posts: 778

Bikes: '80 Windsor Carrera Sport, '02 Specialized Sirrus A1, '10 Giant Escape 2

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.

Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.

If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.

mcgreivey is offline  
Old 11-12-10, 01:55 AM
  #11  
Banned.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 84
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by mcgreivey
I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.

Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.

If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.

that's nice for sure.
clarknick67 is offline  
Old 11-12-10, 11:01 PM
  #12  
cycles per second
 
Gonzo Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,930

Bikes: Early 1980's Ishiwata 022 steel sport/touring, 1986 Vitus 979, 1988 DiamondBack Apex, 1997 Softride PowerWing 700, 2001 Trek OCLV 110

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 71 Times in 48 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt.
You got it! I had an '84 Fuji with Suntour Cyclone with the same style clamp.
Gonzo Bob is offline  
Old 11-13-10, 07:19 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times in 741 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
Someone is sure to take this suggestion seriously. I can't wait for their followup posting!
HillRider is offline  
Old 11-13-10, 12:12 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Chombi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128

Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 150 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 34 Times in 27 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
Someone is sure to take this suggestion seriously. I can't wait for their followup posting!
Yah.....I dunno why no one suggested to just cut the seat tube near the middle with a hacksaw, slide off the FD, jam a piece of broom handle in the tube then go riding......
Oop's forgot about the Elmer's glue......

Chombi
Chombi is offline  
Old 11-25-14, 08:20 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
jethin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times in 158 Posts
OK, I'm reviving this old thread. I have what I assume is the same front derailler as the OP (pic).

I'm thinking that the stud bolt should unscrew and that the "washer" on top of the clamp arms is actually part of the stud. I assume that once the stud is out the arms can be spread and the clamp removed, correct?

But also, the stud is in there good and I'm afraid of stripping it. Suggestions? LBS (yet again)? I've already hit it with penetrating oil.

Last edited by jethin; 11-25-14 at 09:46 AM.
jethin is offline  
Old 11-25-14, 11:21 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Woodstock, IL
Posts: 96
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
__________________
'89 Trek 1200 ,'89 Trek 400 , '97 Trek 720 , '99 Trek 2200, '02 Trek 520.
Ranman is offline  
Old 11-25-14, 11:30 PM
  #17  
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,826
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 694 Times in 371 Posts
Originally Posted by Ranman
Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
+1. Unscrew that stud and all will be revealed.

__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline  
Old 11-26-14, 08:59 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
jethin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times in 158 Posts
Originally Posted by Ranman
Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
+1. Unscrew that stud and all will be revealed.
OK great. But the stud's not budging and I'm afraid it's going to strip. Any other options for removing it? My guess is the best plan would be to: 1) go at it with the snuggest screwdriver fit I have and if it strips 2) somehow cut a notch into the stud for flathead removal. I don't have the tools for the latter so my LBS or some such would have to perform the operation. Thanks for your help.
jethin is offline  
Old 11-26-14, 09:09 AM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,664

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times in 1,404 Posts
Are you trying to save the FD, or simply remove it so you can mount another?

If it's only a matter of removing it, you can grab the stud with vice grips and try to turn it. Or if that fails, carefully saw through the band on the left side - where it's away from the frame - with a saw or Dremel.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 11-26-14, 09:09 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,783

Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others

Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by jethin
OK great. But the stud's not budging and I'm afraid it's going to strip. Any other options for removing it?
Have you tried using a little penetrating oil to break it free? Apply a little PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight, then have a go with your best-fitting screwdriver.
SkyDog75 is offline  
Old 11-26-14, 09:41 AM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
jethin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times in 158 Posts
Yes, I've tried penetrating oil. It's hard to get it in there and has had no effect so far. I don't want to strip this thing because I suppose they're pretty hard to come by.
jethin is offline  
Old 11-26-14, 11:04 PM
  #22  
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,826
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 694 Times in 371 Posts
Originally Posted by jethin
Yes, I've tried penetrating oil. It's hard to get it in there and has had no effect so far. I don't want to strip this thing because I suppose they're pretty hard to come by.
You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline  
Old 11-27-14, 08:23 AM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
jethin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times in 158 Posts
Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks Jeff, I'll do just that. Will focus on turkey, naps and oil soaking for the next couple of days and will update after the operation. Happy Thanksgiving!
jethin is offline  
Old 11-27-14, 08:38 AM
  #24  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Carlstadt, NJ
Posts: 404
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
It makes sense that that stud is super tight or else it would unscrew every time you removed the FD. Try leaving the bike outside. That little bit of shrinkage from getting cold might be enough to help break it free.
Coal Buster is offline  
Old 12-05-14, 07:53 PM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
jethin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,100
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 327 Times in 158 Posts
Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
Welp, I gave it a good soak, got out my best screwdriver and lined it up just so, gave the stud a juke to the right and then went for the full lefty loosey and... the stud unscrewed! I gotta say I haven't had much luck with penetrating oil (in my experience it hasn't helped at all) but whatever did the trick I'm relieved. Thanks for helping Jeff and everyone else.
jethin is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.