James1:17

I'm the proud new owner of a 1990 Trek 750 Multitrack frame. The rear dropouts measure 132mm on the nose. That would probably be 130 right? Vintage Trek didn't have any spacing specs on this model/year. It is a 700c frame btw.

Also, I'm building this up as a commuter/ touring rig and was wondering, are touring grade hubs as readily available in 130mm as they are in 135? Should I cold set this baby? Thanks in advance.

AEO

if the spacing is at 132mm, then it should be no problem using either 130mm or 135mm in that frame.

3alarmer 

Likewise, i don't really see why you would bother
to reset the dropouts for this amount of difference,
If you use the smaller hub, you can add a mm on
either side to your between the locknuts distance
using washers, spacer, wider locknut, whatever,
and still have plenty of axle left to catch the dropout.

If you decide to go with the wider hub, you can
usually either custom modify the locknut distance
by subtracting washer/spacer, etc. or you can
just bite the bullet and spread the drops a little
every time you remove/reinsert the wheel.

I will almost always choose to modify the axle
locknut distance on a hub rather than try to
cold set the frame, because that process, while
certainly doable, is more difficult to control.

Note that on occasion, if you modify the axle
locknut distance and do one side a little more than the
other, you need to redish the wheel. Also, in the
reducing cases, don't reduce so much that you
end up with your small cog scraping the frame.

Good luck with your project.

Mike

FastJake

Since it's a hybrid, I suspect it was originally "supposed" to be 135. But you can run 130 or 135 no problem since it's steel. Just get whatever hub you want most and throw it in there. Personally I'd run 135 because you'll have less dish in which will mean a stronger wheel.

BCRider

For an all weather commuter MTB hubs should offer a bit more resistance to the weather conditions. And it would be super simple to just flex the stays out a hair as you install them.

Although just to confirm all this I'd probably want to check to see if the dropout inner faces are parallel to the centerline and each other. If not I'd cold set both the spacing and the parallelism of the dropouts to fine tune things up so the axles mount well and the derailleur hanger is aligned correctly. You may as well start with everything tip top and correctly aligned if you're doing a full all over build.

Kimmo 

I'd use a 130mm hub and space it to 132, taking the opportunity to lose some dish from the wheel.

James1:17

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Now that I know, I can pretty much let the best deal I come across decide between the two. And BCRider, I definitely will check the parallelism and make sure everything is kosher. That's a great idea and I really like to start things as clean as I can. Thanks again everyone.

AEO

you mean by taking out 3mm from the drive side?
On an older frame, that's unlikely to happen, as the dropout and chainstay might not allow for a cassette sitting out that far.

Kimmo 

Where does 3mm come into it, unless I was talking about a 135mm hub?

I mean:
1. Thread cones and locknuts 1mm to the right on the spindle.
2. Insert 2mm spacer under left locknut.
3. Re-dish wheel.

The cassette remains in exactly the same place relative to the right dropout, which is no longer being squeezed in by 1mm. There's also 1mm less spindle in each dropout, but that shouldn't matter a damn. The 132mm wheel can also be used in a 130mm frame easily enough if need be, and is a bit stronger thanks to reduced dish.

Or just jam a 135mm hub in there. 130mm makes the least sense out of all your options, IMO.

cyclist2000

I thought that some manufacturers use a 132 spacing so you could go with either a 130mm hub or 135mm hub. I didn't think there was any reason to add washers or cold set the frame for this small distance. I thought the some of the touring bikes use the 135mm hub and that would allow for a rear wheel with less dish.

Kimmo 

Dish is bad; the less the better.

Every bit counts. In fact, it may well count for more than you imagine, but I'd have to get someone with experience using a spoke tension meter to verify that.

Cold-setting the frame for a difference of 2-3mm probably has no noticeable effect other than making the wheel easier to remove and replace, although the very slight angle between the dropouts and consequent very slight bend in the spindle would be enough to motivate some to rectify it.

James1:17

So would everyone agree that given two identically spec'd wheels differing in axle width alone, the 135mm would be the more prudent choice for a touring/ heavy commuting application. If this is the consensus, I can definitely deal with the slight increase in wheel mounting difficulty and will abandon the cold set option altogether.

Kimmo 

135mm = less dish = stronger.

That's assuming you're comparing hubs with the same flange spacing.

James1:17

cool thanks man

3alarmer 

James 1:17:

There is one additional consideration here that is often
not mentioned, because it rarely arises, particularly with
high quality hubs. At the risk of
I will add it to the mix.

Generally, the wider your hub, the longer your axle.
The longer your axle, depending on where it is supported
by the bearings in your particular hub, there can be an
increased torque on the axle. Thus greater risk of bending
or breaking when subjected to heavier loads/shocks/abuse
in general.

So depending on the equipment you choose and the placement
of the cones and bearings, for loaded use it is conceivable
a wider hub might be prone to this. At the same time, I would
not choose to argue with:

"135mm = less dish = stronger.

That's assuming you're comparing hubs with the same flange spacing."

because I would lose.

Likely you will not encounter either of these as problems
(wheel distortion or axle breakage due to overload).
Where I see it sometimes is in the Wally World Roadmasters
and Huffys that I encounter in my adventures at the Sacramento
Bicycle Kitchen..Broken axles are not that uncommon in the
low end environment.

To again quote Mel (my friend and hero):

"Anybody can work on that high end Campy crap. It takes
a real mechanic to tune up a Roadmaster."

Yours most respectfully,
Mike Larmer

Kimmo 

Heh... there's a thought.

fietsbob

when you add to the left end of the hub, step 2 is put the wheel in the truing stand

then you retension the spoke balances to be in the center of that new overlocknut width
doing that moves the rim to the left, taking sone tension off the right side spokes...

a little less difference between the sides ... all to the good.

Kimmo 

If you don't have a truing stand, you can just tighten all the NDS spokes a 1/4 turn or something, then flip the wheel in the frame to check dish.

A bit tedious, but it works as long as your frame's straight.