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Bottom bracket removal from HELL

Old 12-17-10, 02:38 AM
  #1  
sKiLLeD
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Bottom bracket removal from HELL

hello everyone
Today i was trying to remove the sealed bottom bracket out of a 20+ year old mountain bike and ended up stripping the aluminum grooves COMPLETELY. I was being really careful, putting a QR through the spindle, but the aluminum was soft and the threads were stuck....The problem is that i really have fallen in love with this old creek bike and have decided to stop at nothing to salvage the frame. But I need YOUR help! What are my options? The "cup" is aluminum...I was thinking about just attacking the BB with a drill but hopefully we can come up with an easier, less insane solution. Ideas? Advice? Pity?
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Old 12-17-10, 03:04 AM
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One of these might work for you.
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...-brackets.html
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Old 12-17-10, 03:05 AM
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Oh, wait is the bottom bracket still in the frame? Which "grooves" got stripped exactly?

Maybe splines got stripped? I'd have thought pre 1990 was still pre splined BBs, but being old ain't so good on the memory, or perhaps there was a mid-90s BB upgrade.

Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 12-17-10 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 12-17-10, 04:36 AM
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If the cups were steel I've been known to weld a piece of scrap steel to them to get the leverage I needed to remove them... (if you can weld aluminum you're a better man than I.)

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Old 12-17-10, 10:09 AM
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You can use destructive methods to remove the spindle from the cup, then use a hacksaw blade to slice through the cup in a couple places. There'll be some collateral damage to the BB shell, but you have nothing to lose at this point.
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Old 12-17-10, 10:38 AM
  #6  
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For alloy cartridge lockrings, I use a 1-1/4 holesaw to cut through the ring down to the cartridge, then punch out the cartridge. You need to improvise a guide for the holesaw. I use a small homemade adapter so the spindle becomes the guide and power through.

After the cartridge is out, you can try to turn out the lockring, or carefully saw it radially, and break it out one section at a time, or file it down to the roots of the thread (crest of the BB shell threads) and use a tap to clean it up.
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Old 12-17-10, 03:20 PM
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thanks! Using a holesaw is a good idea...Im not sure how much clearance there will be with the spindle sticking out though. I might need to chop it off first. I'll let you know how it goes!
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Old 12-17-10, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sKiLLeD View Post
thanks! Using a holesaw is a good idea...Im not sure how much clearance there will be with the spindle sticking out though. I might need to chop it off first. I'll let you know how it goes!
No you don't chop it off. You use it as a guide, otherwise the holwsaw will chatter all over the place.
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Old 12-17-10, 04:18 PM
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+1. run a mandrel into the spindle to keep the holesaw centered and steady. Holesaw should be deep enough to take care of business without cutting the spindle.
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Old 12-17-10, 04:55 PM
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Can you get the other side out? If you can get one side of a sealed cartridge bb out then you can almost definitely get the other side out.

Step 1: remove side that is possible to remove
Step 2: on the side of the frame where the cup is stuck, use a hammer to whack the bb mechanism out throught he free side. How hard should you hit it? Determine how hard you can hit it and be confident you are not shattering the hammer. Then hit is a lot harder than that.
Step 3: Cut the aluminum cup out with a hacksaw blade.

If you can't gfet at least one side out this won't work.
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Old 12-17-10, 05:42 PM
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should I wack the BB spindle with a hammer? would that work in getting everything out? I need a diagram of a sealed BB cartridge..

edit: i am still able to remove the nondrive side

Last edited by sKiLLeD; 12-17-10 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 12-17-10, 06:39 PM
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Well eventually if you wack the axle with a big ass hammer the cartridge shoul get out leaving the cup in place, the issue i see is that maybe the frame will bend or something. If the frame is old and worth nothing i would tray it.

Since U can take one side out use the hammer should work after all the cup is pressed into the bearings. I would try this anyways, put something to lose metals like some oil or one of those super penetrating oils they sell for this purpose, then use a hammer and a flat screwdriver to try to move or simply brake that cup, again the issue could be the BB shell.

Good luck.
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Old 12-17-10, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sKiLLeD View Post
should I wack the BB spindle with a hammer? would that work in getting everything out? I need a diagram of a sealed BB cartridge..

edit: i am still able to remove the nondrive side
They aren't all the same, what brand/model do you have? I wouldn't suggest trying to pound it out as these things are pretty stout and you'll just end up making things worse. Some have are of one piece on one side and have a separate cup on the other side, some have separate cups on both sides. Non-drive side is usually a separate cup so if you are planning to saw into it, start with the drive side.
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Old 12-18-10, 12:35 AM
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I'm assuming that you know that the left side of the bb usually has right hand threads and the drive side, left hand threads. You might be able to file a small notch in the cup and get it loosened with a punch.
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Old 12-18-10, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Iowegian View Post
They aren't all the same, what brand/model do you have? I wouldn't suggest trying to pound it out as these things are pretty stout and you'll just end up making things worse. Some have are of one piece on one side and have a separate cup on the other side, some have separate cups on both sides. Non-drive side is usually a separate cup so if you are planning to saw into it, start with the drive side.
The shells of the BBs were usually steel, so if the cup is aluminum then it is a separate piece. Even if it is somehow 'bonded' to the outside of the cartridge shell, this wiill break it free. I have used this method many times. Please let me know what I have not considered that might make things worse.
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Old 12-19-10, 11:48 AM
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The drive side is reverse-threaded. A very large reverse easy-out is hard to come by but would be the correct tool once you had it apart.

Lacking a reverse easy-out I'd try using a step drill (Uni-Bit) to bite in and either turn it right out or at least take away most of the material as a first step of cutting it all out.

I bet the uni-bit would get it out eventually before you ran out of material to drill out and if you did run out of material stop before you get to the BB threads and switch to a hacksaw blade and cut a small notch or two. This should weaken the cup enough so that it will loosen with ease with a bit of pounding with a cold chisel.

On regular right-hand threads that are stuck and need to be drilled and easy-outed I always start with a left-hand drill bit. 8 out of 10 times I never have to go to the easy-out as the left-hand drill loosens it right up after pulling out some material and reducing the stress on the threads. With the reverse-threads of the BB drive side a right-hand drill or uni-bit will have the exact same effect.
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