I use 10-speed Record and 9-speed Dura-Ace chains that I buy from my LBS. I think they wear better than some and look nicer. On the other hand I'm sure you can get more service for your money from some less expensive chains. I suspect that the best chains for the money are the mid-priced chains similar to Ultegra and 105, but don't ask me to back that up with data.

I haven't seen IPA for sale around here. When in Canuckistan I usually go for the Boar's Head.

IPA's not a brand, rather a style. I'm sure y'all got some kind of IPA in OK.

My first taste of an IPA was at a party ten years ago.
I wanted to say: "ARGH! Who went overboard with the hops?"
However since the proud home-brewer was standing right there, that was not an appropriate option.

Somehow, over the last ten years, I acquired a taste for it, and now it is my favorite drink after a long, hot ride.

For Al1943: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/India_Pale_Ale

You're a lucky dude Sixty Fiver. She's a precious commodity these days. A kid that that doesn't have their nose stuck into facebook or some console game but instead enjoys REAL things is a rare thing indeed. The condition of her shop apron speaks volumes of good things and hours well spent.

Sashco, the three brush wheel chain cleaning gizmo sold through MEC works like a treat for cleaning the chain quickly right on the bike. A search will turn up many heated discussions of almost religious fervor on what to put into the cleaning gizmo but a lot of us agree that it's the easiest way to clean the chain when it's truly mucky.

Cool, I appreciate all of your input everyone :-)

One problem with cleaning chains in winter is that conditions are so bad it becomes too much bother so you dont.
You can ease the situation by using 2 chains and a decent master link such as SRAM.
Remove the dirty chain.
Clean up the sprokets with a rag wetted with solvent (eg WD40)
Apply the clean chain.

Then at your leisure, you can clean the dirty chain.
You can put it in a jar of kerosene for a few days, wipe off any dirt, then dry completely in a warm place.
Apply wet lube (one drop per link) and wipe the outside of the chain with a clean oily rag to prevent rusting.
Store the chain in a bag or jar until the next change.

If you cycle the 2 chains so they wear at similar rates you wont be affected by a new chain slipping on a worn sprocket.

I've been told that using WD40 on a chain is a no-no.

Aside from that, I like your 2 chain idea, however I'd have to start with 2 new chains for it to work for me. I'll definitely keep it in mind however for when I'm getting a new one.

WD40 is OK for cleaning just not that great for using as a lube as its way too thin and attracts drit like crazy

Looks like I misread that, as Michael mentioned cleaning the sprokets and now the chain with the WD40.

WD40 works for cleaning but it's an expensive option. You can get a gallon of low odor paint thinner from the hardware store for a LOT cheaper. And it makes a superb cleaning solvent. Another good option is low odor or "lamp oil" kerosene.

Wear solvent resistant gloves when handling either of these. Over the years the bad effects of solvent on the skin tend to add up so avoiding contact as much as possible is a good practice.

If you use the solvent for either on the bike cleaning with the gizmo or do the two chain deal and use it in a jar you can let the solvent settle and reuse it for as long as it settles to a clear transparent tea like color. Water from the chain may cloud it and eventually you'll need to dispose of it at a recycling depot but you'll be amazed at how long it lasts and how often you can reuse it.

If you're not using preciously priced oil for your chain lube you can actually apply it somewhat liberally and then just wipe off the excess with paper towels to blot the excess away. No need to painfully place single drops on each link pin. I tend to squirt on a thin stream while backpedalling and then while continuing to back pedal with one hand put the bottle down and pickup the towel with the other. By that time the oil has worked its way through the pins and plates and I can blot away the excess while leaving what is needed down in the innards. It's much quicker and easier.

On a winter commuter the chain needs cleaning far more frequently due to picking up gunk than it does due to lube migration or failure. So I really don't see any advantage to using a high priced and high tech lube. A thicker grade of basic dead dino or new synthetic oil in the 10-50 range of thickness will do just fine. It's got great rust inhibitors and it is thin enough to sink in quickly and wipe away on the surface while being thick enough to protect well. At least this is my pragmatic thinking on it that has proven itself for the past 15'ish years of winter commuting.

I take mine off the bike and throw it in a bucket with diesel fuel and swish it around. i repeat this a few times with clean diesel. Then wipe it off and put it back on the bike. Quick and easy, only takes a couple minutes. Clean and lube in one step. Maybe some of the chain lube gurus can tell me how bad this is for my chain?

andy

Sixty-Fiver

I think you are a pretty proud father, and you should be. Great photos

Bikenut, diesel fuel is not an oil. It'll take some time but it WILL evaporate and leave your chain high and dry. In the meantime the fuel that is on the chain is a poor lubricant at best. If you insist on removing it each time and doing this bucket wash and want to skip the oiling step then try mixing in about 1 part oil to 3 parts fuel. That way you'll have an oil film in place.

Good info. I'm pretty anal about keeping the chain clean and lubed, I do the bucket wash/lube about once a week... so no worries here =)

Cheers
andy

You'd make a fortune selling a bicycle maintenance CD with her doing the demo and narration! I'd buy one!

So Passe. But an i-phone app @ 4.95, might be the ticket

try this one, i'm quoting from a senior member in my community, use this easy way to clean bicycle chain
- use plastic bottle
- fill it with gasoline or degreaser about half of the bottle
- remove the chain from your bike ( actually its easier for the chain with missing link or powerlink / not needed to cut the chain )
- put it in the bottle, and closed tight the bottle
- then shake it hard, like bartender until you see the chain is clean
- get the chain out, brush a little
- dry it with tissue paper
- reinstal on your bike
- and lube it again with chain oil

that should work well, easier and cheaper...:beer:

It's interesting, I actually read something very similar somewhere online when I initially got my bike. It sounds like it's likely one of the easiest ways to clean it. Now all I've got to do is find a plastic bottle that's got a large enough opening (I was initially thinking a 2L pop bottle, but that would be a pain to clean as well as getting the chair out from the small opening, assuming I even manage to get it in). What kind of plastic bottle do you use?

Peanut butter jar works well.

Plug the neck with an old rag and you've got a molotov cocktail.

First, the "Drop and Shake" method was first put on the web by Sheldon Brown. Credit where credit is due.

Secondly, a peanut butter jar is gonna leak your solvent all over when shaken vigorously. I use an old leak-proof waterbottle with mineral spirits.

Old, wide-mouth Pepsi liter bottles worked the best for me, but Pepsi does not ship in those bottles anymore.

Another trick I have used with Pepsi 2liter bottles is to tie a little fishing line around a hole in the chain, lower into bottle, shake vigorously, then fish chain out with the aid of the filament.

Anyway, no matter what bottle you use, the Sheldon Brown method is my preferred method of cleaning my chains. It requires a reusable chain link of course. KMC links is what I use.

Very cool, my current chain is toast so I'm about to replace it, however I'm definitely going to give this a try for my new one :-D

Good thing there's an alternative to a peanut butter jar, as I don't eat much peanut butter and it'd take me a while to get one empty ;-)

I've had no problem with the peanut butter jar. We buy the stuff in large plastic containers. In any case there are lots of alternatives for this method of cleaning chains.

1L coke/mineral water plastic bottle should do well...
well actually it's easier to get the chain in...
after you finish clean it, you can always cut that plastic bottle to get the chain out.....:D

well i prefer plastic bottle, since peanut butter is not popular in here...:D
and the jar is amazingly small, and made from glass, afraid to break it when shaked hard with metal chain in it....

that's a great idea......:D
it's more atraction, when you cleaning the chain....:D