Purplemonkey

Hi all,

Just bought a new pair of forks and the head tube looks to be at least 4" too long (correct diameter). is this normal, or do some frames have long head stocks? The order details didn't specify any information about Steering Stem particulars, so I'm kind of guessing this is normal. Am I suposed to just chop the excess off?

I see I can order a new Steering Cap to go in the top, I haven't yet, but will do tonight, just debating whether to go for a whole new Headset?

Cheers for any help

cny-bikeman

It's called a fork column - the part of the frame it fits through is the head tube. Instead of asking one-off questions I would suggest googling what you need, like "install threaded/threadless fork."

Luke52

It's normal for the steerer tube to have excess length on it.

You measure how long you need it, cut off the extra length, then press the star-nut into the tube.

FBinNY 

If it's a threadless system, life is easy. Assemble everything including headset, stem and all the spacers you plan to use + 1 more to establish a margin of error (snafu insurance). Mark the fork at the top of the stack. Remove the fork and cut 1/16" below the mark. Worst case it'll be a hair long, and you can trim with a file or add another spacer. If you're not good at getting straight cuts with a hacksaw, use two hose clamps 1/16" apart on either side of the cut as guides.

If you're planning on using a threaded headest, you're SOL. Since the fork will need to be trimmed and threaded, which isn't something that easy.

skilsaw

Since you are cutting the fork column (steerer tube) You can only make it shorter. Don't cut off too much. Measure twice, cut once. That is why they named the nut you shove down the tube after a bike mechanic who frequently cut tubes too short. He, (it) is known as the Star Nut.

Don't mind my bizzare humor. Too much coffee today.
That hint about cutting between two hose clamps is a good one. They make a special guide to do that, and now you don't need to buy one.

fietsbob

Head tube is usually applied to the Frame, steerer tube applied to the fork,
Nomenclature may be misapplied, if so ..

4" is nothing for a threadless fork steerer tube, because the stem is going to grip 40mm of that ,
the other 6 is filled by a stack of spacers, which are made in 40,20, 10 and thinner lengths.

and there is no reason why you cannot use a spacer above the stem.
thats legit.


threaded but too long ... ?
Sheldon and a few others have cobbled together 1" hybrid threadless/ threaded headsets,
the top ring nut can serve as a threadless headset bearing pre load, and still use the Quill stem.

Purplemonkey

Thanks for the advice guys, to the helpful chap who recommended Google, its easy to use google is you use the correct terminology! if not, you get a load of useless info back, hence the post!

It is a treadles jobby, and I was simply wondering if hacksawing was a 'normal' practice, it seems it is, so off to get a new hacksaw blade now, hopefully be riding by the weekend

also cheers for the tips, will come in handy, as you say cut too short and thats a useless pair of forks right there.

HillRider

Based on your lack of experience, the fact that a mistake in cutting the steerer can be very expensive, and that you may or may not need a new type of headset, I recommend a trip to your local bike dealer before you do anything else.

FuzzyDunlop

It's also just called a fork, not a pair of forks. I second the suggestion to drop by a bike shop. Never hurts to get their advice. Also, you'll also need to install the headset's crown race onto the new fork, which requires a special tool.

Here are some more resources so you know just what you're getting into:

https://www.ehow.com/how_14185_install-new-bike.html
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...gth-and-sizing
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...eadset-service