Sashko

I'm currently riding my bike in winterous conditions in Toronto, and after the long week-end, my chain had gotten all rusty and stuff. I ended up lubing it with my chain oil and a toothbrush and it's much better now.

My question is how often should I clean it? Also, would you recommend using something like this product for cleaning: https://tinyurl.com/2cvyst8 . Thank you in advance.

FBinNY 

There's lots of debate about chain washing. I, along with most chain manufacturers, feel it usually does more than good. The key to good chain life is to prevent the kinds of problems that chain washing tries to cure. For winter riding (please consider the source here, I make chain oil, and am highly biased) you're best off with a wet oil based chainlube which will keep salt and water out of the chain. Or you can use a dry lube, but you'll need to rinse and dry the chain and re-apply often.

You can usually keep road chains reasonably clean simply by dry wiping from time to time. Or, if a thorough wash is required, the best method involves removing the chain and washing in mineral spirits or an appropriate solvent off the bike in an old coffee can, doing multiple rinses to be sure all (or most) of the silt is removed, then drying completely before relubing.

The problem with chain washer gadgets is that they don't do an effective job, washing dirt into the chain as much as they wash it out, because unless you change the fluid a number of times you're just circulating the same crud. Also they don't provide an easy means to dry the chain, which means that the spaces within the chain remain full of solvent, and newly applied lube won't penetrate to where it needs to be. (By way of anology, imagine wiping up a spill with an already soaked paper towel)

The damage to your chain can't be undone, but you can prevent more by keeping it oiled, dry wiping it as needed and staying ahead of the problem.

Jed19

Nice of you to mention that you produce chain oil. But it is irrelevant in this case. The OP should know that a "wet lube" is infinitely better for his riding conditions. I ride in SoCal with dry lubes, but would not dare use dry lubes during Toronto winters.

FBinNY 

I'm glad we agree about wet lubes in winter, but I feel that intellectual honesty requires that I inform the reader my commercial interest. We're all biased in one way or another, and all feel we're right in what post, yet there's room for disagreement. Knowing a possible reason for my bias helps the reader in assessing the veracity of the post.

Sashko

Thank you amigos, the advice was greatly appreciated.

I already use wet lube called "Cross Country Finish Line Wet Lubricant." Has been working great for me thus far. I think I'll do a dry wipe-down followed by a re-lubing as suggested within the next few days, as there's a fair amount of gunk left on the chain.

Al1943

The only time I remove a chain from a bicycle is to replace it. I've always run a chain for at least 5000 miles before any interval of chain has stretched 1/16th inch per foot. I wipe the chain with a rag often, about every 100 miles. I use a cleaning machine loaded with mineral spirits about every 1000 miles. My chains are all nickel plated, no rust.

Sashko

I sure do love my chain wear gauge.

Where do you find nickel plated chains?

Sixty Fiver

I am with FB on chain washers... they are pretty much useless.

Reviews on his Chain L seem to be rather excellent... I mix my own.

Because I really wanted to test my home brew I have now ridden 500 km without a need to re-lube and have only been wiping down my chain and it is still smooth, shiny, and noise free and the weather and roads have been hideous.

The key is to start with a really clean chain, apply a drop of lube to each link and wipe that chain down until there is no oil residue on the outside of the chain as this keeps it from picking up dirt and grime.

Most people use too much lube and do not wipe their chains down properly afterwards... more is not better when it comes to chains.

Sashko

I really like the way you explained this, I'll definitely give this method a try, as I'm definitely one of the people you described that would put the lube all over. In result, it would get all over my bike around it and such. I'll wipe it down, and see how that goes :-D

Sixty Fiver

It is funny to watch my daughter at the shop when she is showing people how to lube chains... she says "one drop per roller... and wipe that down until you are really bored... and watch your fingers".

She has been taking care of her own bikes since she was 7 (with a little help)... she likes a clean chain too.

LesterOfPuppets

I don't get the watch your fingers part, but "one drop per roller... and wipe that down until you are really bored" is just plain awesome!

Sixty Fiver

After you run your hand into the chain ring or cogs you will get it.

Sixty Fiver

The boss...

Alan@TreeFort

The Finis Line Wet Lubricant is good for your conditions. Completely wipe down the chain from any dirt, grime, or old lubricant so it is completely clean, apply the new lube, let it sit for a little while (overnight if possible), then do a complete wipe down with a clean rag. There should be no excess oil on the outside of the chain, only within the internals.

A dry chain will run better and last longer than a dirty, wet one, so after messy rides be sure to clean and re-lube the chain.

Jed19

Just awesome!

Al1943

What is that orange thing on the back of the workbench that looks like a piece of yesterday's pizza?

Precious young lady!

rydabent

As I have posted several times, I am in the "wet" lube corner. At least once a year I remove my chain and clean it in kerosene using a brass bristle brush. I change out the kerosene two or three times. I then hang the chain up to completely dry for 3 or 4 days, then put it back on the bike. I then lube it with Mobil 1 one drop per roller. Then as mentioned I run the chain backwards and dry wipe until chain is fairly dry. I also dry wipe the chain before every ride. After 6000 miles my Park chain wear tool has yet to indicate .75% wear.

Sixty Fiver

?

She is pretty precious... was 8 years old here and will soon be 11 although she is not much bigger.

She is a natural when it comes to using tools and building things... this was the first time I asked her to lace a wheel she did it perfectly and think this is because she is such a strong visual learner.

And she loves cycling.

Carbonfiberboy 

I like the Finish Line Ceramic Pro lube better than the Wet Lube. I get noticeably better chain life with it and the chain stays a little cleaner. It's a wet lube which I now use winter and summer.

I use one of those chain cleaner gadgets when my chain gets really dirty. I use paint thinner in it. The trick to them is to keep changing the fluid until when you roll the chain between your fingers, you don't hear that gritty sound any more. Then dry the chain with a heat gun or hair dryer while you move it past the gun. When the chain is quite warm, it's usually also dry. Then apply the lube. Just put it on while rolling the chain by, until you have plenty on there. Then heat it again with the gun to make sure it's in the rollers and, as other have said, wipe really well. Also wipe the cassette cog, jockey wheels, and chainrings, then the chain again. This whole process doesn't have to take very long. A couple hundred miles after cleaning, reapply the lube and rewipe. Then you should be good for quite a while. You should be able to tell if your chain needs lube by the sound. Chain should be silent or almost.

If you're on the road, just wipe, lube, wipe.

davidad

I am of the remove and clean school. I service mine every 650 to 700 miles and lube it with home brew. Since I started using a cheap ultra sonic cleaner my chains have lasted over 12,000 miles.
When I relube I saturate the chain and take a little extra time to wipe it down so that the outside is as dry as I can get it.

LesterOfPuppets

It looks like the business end of a bag of Cheetos to me. (there were a couple of surprising results on the google images search for Cheetos, I'm gonna go conservative here, though)

The label clearly identifies Cheetos as official cyclist fuel.

FBinNY 

Looks to me like an open bag of Cheetos, or whatever they're called in Canada. They're the perfect snack when you're taping bars with white cloth tape.

Sixty Fiver

In Canada we eat Cheezies... someone else had left snacks on the bench.

Al1943

Yeah OK, I see that now, Cheetos and root beer, probably good food for wrenching. My work bench is usually adorned with taco chips and Diet Coke or sometimes Shiner Bock.

Sixty Fiver

My daughter likes her root beer when we wrench, brings me tea when I am working, and there is nothing like an ice cold IPA after you've spent the day turning wrenches or had the torch fired up.

Cause we need lubrication too.



And if you are running a torch all day you don't even need a fridge to keep your beverages cool.