Help With a Shimano 105 STI Shifter
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Help With a Shimano 105 STI Shifter
I recently acquired brand new Shimano 1055 STI shifters. They are from 1996 and are for an 8 speed cassette and a triple crankset. They have never been installed or used. The problem is with the right hand 8 speed shifter.
The cable hook is inside the shifter somewhere in or near the low cog setting. In order to install the shift cable properly, the hook needs to be in the highest cog setting. This allows the cable to be slid through the access hole and the inner end of the cable to engage in the cable hook.
The directions tell to move the "B" lever several times in order place the cable hook in the correct position opposite the access hole, in order to install the cable. But for some reason, neither the "B" lever nor the "A" lever move the cable hook or carrier in either direction.
Is there a fix for this problem? Or is the shifter "toast" and needs to be tossed? Thanks for any guidance or help.
Access Hole with cable carrier in view.
The cable hook is inside the shifter somewhere in or near the low cog setting. In order to install the shift cable properly, the hook needs to be in the highest cog setting. This allows the cable to be slid through the access hole and the inner end of the cable to engage in the cable hook.
The directions tell to move the "B" lever several times in order place the cable hook in the correct position opposite the access hole, in order to install the cable. But for some reason, neither the "B" lever nor the "A" lever move the cable hook or carrier in either direction.
Is there a fix for this problem? Or is the shifter "toast" and needs to be tossed? Thanks for any guidance or help.
Access Hole with cable carrier in view.
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#2
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Should I spray the guts with a very generous application of WD-40? I read this in another thread for a different problem. In that case the STI would not shift when cold.
Any help?
Any help?
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yes flood it with solvent. you cant do anything else unless you take it apart. since its NOS everything should be functional or was at one point
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Just doused the insides of my STI shifter with WD-40, and the problem seems to be solved!
The more I read in other posts about stuck shifting, they all seemed to point to old, dirty, or hardened grease. I guess sitting on the shelf for 15 years turned the Shimano grease into a nice, clean, and pasty glue. Can't wait to move forward with this build!
reptilezs, thanks for helping build my confidence to execute this fix. Bravo!
The more I read in other posts about stuck shifting, they all seemed to point to old, dirty, or hardened grease. I guess sitting on the shelf for 15 years turned the Shimano grease into a nice, clean, and pasty glue. Can't wait to move forward with this build!
reptilezs, thanks for helping build my confidence to execute this fix. Bravo!
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#6
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I suppose this is a redcurrant theme with Shimano STI shifters. My ignorance in this area shows I hang out in Classic & Vintage way too much.
This morning the shifter is still working but it is not a very smooth shift. I suppose another round of WD-40 can't hurt?
This morning the shifter is still working but it is not a very smooth shift. I suppose another round of WD-40 can't hurt?
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Go for it......FWIW, it's not just Shimano road shifters that can be brought back to life with a WD-40 flush, or as we call it in our bike shop a "solvent flush." Shimano mountain bike shifters can have the same type of problem and can be brought back with WD-40, and SRAM road and mountain shifters as well....... Last winter, we had a customer come in who was complaining of his SRAM road shifters not working. After a quick check, we realized that the extremely cold temps at that time were causing the dreaded "dead shifter syndrome." In this case, a minimal flush with WD and the customer's been happy with his shifters ever since. This was the first and only time we've had to do this with SRAM road shifters so far, though. I guess the fact that they're fairly new to the road shifter market has something to do with that. I don't remember ever using this little procedure on Campy shifters, but it wouldn't surprise me if there are cases where it solved the same type of problem on them as well.
The problem is so prevalent with old mountain bike shifters that when one of these comes in with "dead shifter syndrome" we inform the customer that there's maybe a 50-50 chance we can bring the shifters back to working order with the flush, but with old shifters sometimes they're just worn out. We keep a good stock of replacement mtb shifter sets in 7 speed and 8 speed, because there are a LOT of mountain bikes in the 10-20 year old age range that have "dead shifter syndrome."
The problem is so prevalent with old mountain bike shifters that when one of these comes in with "dead shifter syndrome" we inform the customer that there's maybe a 50-50 chance we can bring the shifters back to working order with the flush, but with old shifters sometimes they're just worn out. We keep a good stock of replacement mtb shifter sets in 7 speed and 8 speed, because there are a LOT of mountain bikes in the 10-20 year old age range that have "dead shifter syndrome."
Last edited by well biked; 01-25-11 at 08:30 AM.
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Quick question: Once the shifter feels as if it is "clicking" correctly between shifts, should I add any lubricant through the cable hole? Or should I depend on the residual lube from the WD-40 and call it the day, realizing a regular "squirt" will be needed from time to time?
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Quick question: Once the shifter feels as if it is "clicking" correctly between shifts, should I add any lubricant through the cable hole? Or should I depend on the residual lube from the WD-40 and call it the day, realizing a regular "squirt" will be needed from time to time?
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Thanks for sharing your experience.
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No problem. How's the red Paramount build coming along? I remember you saying in C and V that it's going to have its 40th birthday in March and you hope to have it together by then; if you remember, my '71 Paramount is one month younger than yours, my frame was built in April, '71. I'm anxious to see your '71 built up-
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Nothing accomplished on the Red Paramount yet. Hopefully by the end of February. I'll post pictures when I'm done.
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Be careful with the WD40. It is a solvent and has the potential to remove the grease altogether, which would be bad. Oil isn't the right lubricant for shifter internals, and you'd be risking a shortened service life if that's all you had in there. Let it work itself out with use. If it sticks, shoot it with WD40. Otherwise just ride it.
BL
BL
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Be careful with the WD40. It is a solvent and has the potential to remove the grease altogether, which would be bad. Oil isn't the right lubricant for shifter internals, and you'd be risking a shortened service life if that's all you had in there. Let it work itself out with use. If it sticks, shoot it with WD40. Otherwise just ride it.
BL
BL
Any idea what the service life would be on a NOS 15 year old STI shifter? My guess is, since this is joining a fleet of 8 bikes, which are all ridden approximately 2000 miles a year, the service life will be quite long. Also my PM over the winter and care during riding season is really good.
These were part of a nearly complete 1996 New 105 Group, and will be used on a very minty 1996 Cannondale Silk Road 500 frameset. Here's the entire Group. In about 10 years this should be considered a "Classic & Vintage" ride!
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Quick question: Once the shifter feels as if it is "clicking" correctly between shifts, should I add any lubricant through the cable hole? Or should I depend on the residual lube from the WD-40 and call it the day, realizing a regular "squirt" will be needed from time to time?
I'd take the levers off the bike, or even off the lever bodies, maybe remove the faceplate/cable stop (there's a spring and seal that's a fiddle to replace), and just pump oil in through every gap and hole, or even submerge it.
Need to let it drain for a while, though
Last edited by Kimmo; 01-27-11 at 06:41 AM.