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Mountain Bike Crankset on Road Bike?

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Mountain Bike Crankset on Road Bike?

Old 01-24-11, 11:27 PM
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bstewart
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Mountain Bike Crankset on Road Bike?

Hello,

New to road cycling and recently picked up an older (2002) Fuji Finest AL for $300. I've got an '08 Cannondale F6 mountain bike as well and am wondering how feasible it would be to swap the cranksets. I'm very green in this respect so any advice/assistance would be greatly appreciated. I've like the respective BikePedia pages of the bikes below. Again, any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Fuji
https://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeS...t-AL&Type=bike

Cannondale
https://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeS...l=F6&Type=bike

Thanks!
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Old 01-25-11, 12:25 AM
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Welcome!

You probably could. The bottom bracket (the bearing that goes between the crank and frame) on both bikes appears to be ISO, so you could swap the whole crankset including bottom bracket if the cranks aren't interchangeable between the two bottom brackets.

Sometimes you can run into the issue of a chainring failing to clear the frame (especially the chainstay) of the bike. Also, note that you'll need to have proper chain length and rear derailer capacity to accommodate a given crank (with long chains and high RD capacity for a mountain-style triple crank). The chainline may also not be optimal with the far-out MTB crank failing to register well with the cluster in the more closely-spaced rear triangle.

Mountain-style gearing on a road-style bike can be a useful way to go. My own nice bike, a Rivendell light touring bike (more light than touring) is set up this exact way with a 46-36-24 crankset.
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Old 01-25-11, 12:07 PM
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I did just this on my commuting bikes. Getting a bit older I found that I can't effetively pedal regular road rings without a high degree of cross chaining. So I went for MTB cranks and rings on most of my bikes.

To match the size for best shifting you'll want to use an MTB front derailleur. And if you're using road bike brifters some very careful setup will be needed to tune them to the amount of cable pull from the brifter. It's fussier than a proper MTB shifter but it can be done.
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Old 01-25-11, 01:29 PM
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If the road bike front derailluer hanger is a braze on type you'll have a problem moving the derailluer low enough for the smaller chain rings.
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Old 01-25-11, 02:06 PM
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camping gear hauling tourists find use for the low gears of mountain bikes useful ..
the use of Bar end shifters makes that practical.
The front mech functions with manual control then.
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Old 01-25-11, 03:55 PM
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bstewart
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Awesome

Thank you to all for the information. I'm wondering if it'd be cheaper to just upgrade my road bike crankset to Sora (to match my other components) or better. Since I plan on continuing to ride, I may start to upgrade the components piece by piece culminating with an upgrade frame fork set...
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Old 01-25-11, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bstewart View Post
Thank you to all for the information. I'm wondering if it'd be cheaper to just upgrade my road bike crankset to Sora (to match my other components) or better. Since I plan on continuing to ride, I may start to upgrade the components piece by piece culminating with an upgrade frame fork set...
Two comments. First, if the C-dale is rideable, pulling the crankset of will require replacing it with something to get it back on the road. Second, Sora is about the bottom of the Shimano road line (it is decent stuff but not stuff you upgrade TO, it is stuff you upgrade FROM). I'd look a little higher up the line to Tiagra or 105 (both of which can be found on eBay pretty reasonably if you are patient) if your plan is to move components to a better frame in the future.
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