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Can a new Tiagra hub be respaced down, to 120-126?

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Can a new Tiagra hub be respaced down, to 120-126?

Old 01-29-11, 05:30 PM
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Von Stively
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Can a new Tiagra hub be respaced down, to 120-126?

I went to LBS today to see about having a set of wheels built onto some campy hubs I bought and buffed up. I had no idea how quick the price of labor, rims and spokes would add up$$$! . So, there is a set of wheels available with new Tiagra hubs, but they are spaced at 132(I think). LBS thought perhaps some spacers can be taken out to make it fit? My bike has 120 spacing, 5 speed cluster. Nice bike, I don't want to bend it and have the drop outs out of whack, then have to bend them and have something break and lose the bike, etc...

Any thoughts on respacing a Tiagra hub down to 126 or less? If possible, what about a cassette, can I just take off the low gear?

Sorry if this is a repost. I searched but couldn't find much.
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Old 01-29-11, 05:33 PM
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Respacing to 126 mm is fairly straight forward but if you keep the 8/9/10-speed freehub body, the dish will be excessive.

Cold setting the 120 mm dropouts to 130 mm and realigning the dropouts isn't that difficult for a steel frame.
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Old 01-29-11, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Respacing to 126 mm is fairly straight forward but if you keep the 8/9/10-speed freehub body, the dish will be excessive.

Cold setting the 120 mm dropouts to 130 mm and realigning the dropouts isn't that difficult for a steel frame.
Thanks, That is what I have read. I'm afaid the bending will stress the welds. Is that an invalid concern? I could do the 2x4 method to spread it. And I have figured I can use a threaded rod with assorted bolts to allign the dropouts. I live on the Delmarva, and I don't know of any shops around here that can do it. I wish I knew of a shop in the Balt/DC area I could drive to that has experience doing it.
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Old 01-29-11, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Von Stively View Post
Thanks, That is what I have read. I'm afaid the bending will stress the welds. Is that an invalid concern? I could do the 2x4 method to spread it. And I have figured I can use a threaded rod with assorted bolts to allign the dropouts. I live on the Delmarva, and I don't know of any shops around here that can do it. I wish I knew of a shop in the Balt/DC area I could drive to that has experience doing it.
Mt Airy/College Park (Larry Black) has several experienced mechanics. Proteus (Jill DiMauro) also does interesting projects. If you are around NOVA, I'd go to Baily at Papillion Cycles. You'd never know it from the looks of the shop -- very family oriented -- but Baily is an excellent mechanic who does welding and so on.

Bending the bike could stress the welds. Although I have heard of many more successes than failures.

You could swap the 8/9/10 speed freehub body and replace it with a 7 speed. Replace the axle and you would be down to 126. Note that you could probably find a 126 hub for the cost.
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Old 01-29-11, 09:21 PM
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I have some nice 126 hubs. It was the cost o building up the wheels at my LBS... Wheelsets in the 200-250 range seem available, but with the wider spacing.
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Old 01-29-11, 11:43 PM
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I would stick with your original plan and bite the bullet and build the campy hubs if they will fit. Unless you were plannning on building a 9 or 10 speed bike with ergopower shift/brake levers, you will have a nicer bike in the end. You can get a set of 2nd hand wheels to use unmodified while you save for new rims and spokes, or to use as a doner for rims for your campy hubs.
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Old 01-29-11, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Von Stively View Post
Thanks, That is what I have read. I'm afaid the bending will stress the welds. Is that an invalid concern? I could do the 2x4 method to spread it. And I have figured I can use a threaded rod with assorted bolts to allign the dropouts. I live on the Delmarva, and I don't know of any shops around here that can do it. I wish I knew of a shop in the Balt/DC area I could drive to that has experience doing it.
On an old steel frame it's probably not an issue. I've seen frames that were 2cm off center (accident while in storage) returned to the straight and narrow and a long and happy life. I've spread steel frames from 120mm to 135mm without issues.

When you start dealing with aluminum, composite, or a more recent welded "super" steel frame, then I'd worry a bit. Not much, though. Talk to the old-time framebuilders- old steel is pretty darn forgiving.
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Old 01-30-11, 09:15 AM
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You won't stress the welds by respacing for a wider hub.
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Old 01-30-11, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by GoatHead73 View Post
I would stick with your original plan and bite the bullet and build the campy hubs if they will fit.
Me too.

Really nice classic wheelset vs. modification of the frame or rear hub that you're not sure about or you wouldn't have asked.

How many spokes are your Campy hubs?
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Old 01-30-11, 10:27 AM
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Best compromise in my view would be to cold-set the frame to 126 mm. Then build up your Campy hubs to take a 7-speed freewheel with 126mm OLD. This gives you the best of both worlds: a classic-looking wheel with an almost-modern range of cogs. Bonus: if you want to keep using your 5-speed freewheel, or a narrow-spaced 6, you can build your wheel with less asymmetry ("dish") on the 126mm OLD and thereby make it stronger. (You don't usually need a longer axle to do this, as long as you have a millimetre or two sticking out clear of the locknut faces.)

Agree that if you have old high-end Campy hubs you should try to keep them on the road no matter what it costs. Thirty years from now you'll be glad you did.

Edit: especially since you have some "nice 126 hubs" too. Or is the Campy hubs you bought and buffed up that are 126 mm? In that case, since the hubs are already 126mm OLD you don't need to worry about the axle being long enough. My bad.

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Old 01-30-11, 01:01 PM
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Make a jig to hold the chainstays at the bridge, to keep them from spreading,
that will greatly reduce the possibility of popping the Brazing loose at that point .

Then, the bending will take place behind that point.

a Phil Wood Freewheel Hub will be good, [instead] never had any axle problems with mine..
under a camp touring load, and rough roads..
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Old 01-30-11, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
Me too.

Really nice classic wheelset vs. modification of the frame or rear hub that you're not sure about or you wouldn't have asked.

How many spokes are your Campy hubs?
Hubs are 36 hole Record. I bought them off someone here on this forum. They are in good condition, and like I said buffed really nice. I just couldn't believe the cost of building a wheel at LBS. He said $80.00 for one velocity synergy rim, $1/spoke and $40 for labor. That is $312. I wanted to set this bike up as a 650b for some fat tires to do the C&O canal trail this summer. I was thinking parts and Labor would be around $200

Today our washer started groaning, so unless I meet an altruistic wheel builder this project may have to wait.
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Old 01-30-11, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Von Stively View Post
I just couldn't believe the cost of building a wheel at LBS. He said $80.00 for one velocity synergy rim, $1/spoke and $40 for labor. That is $312. I wanted to set this bike up as a 650b for some fat tires to do the C&O canal trail this summer. I was thinking parts and Labor would be around $200.
You need a new bike shop. Last summer I had a rear wheel built up using a Velocity Aerohead rim and DT 14 ga spokes on my existing a 32H Dura Ace hub and the parts and labor cost totaled about $110.
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Old 01-30-11, 03:59 PM
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The OP's bike shop must be pricing the parts at full retail. When I build my own wheels that's about what rims and spokes cost in the Toronto area. I can see why a lot of people just buy factory-built wheelsets rather than rolling their own. HillRider, how does your bike shop make money on wheels at parts and labour for $110?
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Old 01-31-11, 12:15 AM
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This is the perfect time and reason to learn to build a set of wheels, then it would be in your budget
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Old 01-31-11, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by conspiratemus1 View Post
The OP's bike shop must be pricing the parts at full retail. When I build my own wheels that's about what rims and spokes cost in the Toronto area. I can see why a lot of people just buy factory-built wheelsets rather than rolling their own. HillRider, how does your bike shop make money on wheels at parts and labour for $110?
They don't. The parts cost more than $110.00
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Old 01-31-11, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclist2000 View Post
This is the perfect time and reason to learn to build a set of wheels, then it would be in your budget
You have a good point! I had a dream about that last night. With two sons 4 & 7 that is not a bad idea.
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Old 01-31-11, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
They don't. The parts cost more than $110.00
i just did the math in my head, and at the shop i work at, those parts (aerohead, 32 sg spokes, brass nipples) comes out to about 65-75 bucks.

cost to the shop, that is.
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