+1, [simplifying the how to stuff I wrote earlier] just Get a threaded headset, dude .:twitchy:

if you then want to use a threadless stem, then buy a conversion plug ,
7/8" quill on the bottom, with a 9/8" diameter on the top to grip with the stem,
of your choosing

the carbon fork is questionable, used, you don't know its former life..
could be hidden surprises. :crash:

I know, right? Not only do I not know about the third-hand fork's previous 13 years of life, I got this threadless headset for a good deal and I even got it installed for free today, ($65 for a 6 month old chris king, you ask?). So I'm sticking to threadless for now at least. I'm in the market for a new threaded headset probably in the future, as the old tange on my bianchi rc has some play, probably from pitted cups. Haven't disassembled to tell though.

I appreciate all of your input, and I think a general consensus has been made. I think that another person who comes along with a similar thought will be better-informed by this thread. I took my frame in to the shop here, and the mechanic told me that I could use the top nuts from my old threaded headset as long as a second was used to keep the lower one from loosening. That would've been fairly tricky given the profile of the nuts and the fact that the threads don't go all the way through on the top nut.

I think I may be able to afford a threadless fork, just not a high end one. After thinking about it, it will be more cost effective and guarunteed-to-be-safe then jury rigging a quill type extension in there. I was thinking something like the nashbar 1" carbon fiber fork for $80. I don't know what nashbar branded stuff is like, though. Maybe you guys can shed some light on an appropriate fork for my R1000.

So, does anyone have a recommendation for a great value, threadless 1" carbon fork? Nashbar -- $79. rake on my original is 43mm fyi.

Glad to hear you got a mechanic,s input firsthand!
 

Actually that sounds like an ideal configuration with your existing fork - suggest you review my previous postings.

I had previously pointed out that the top locking nut was not threaded all the way through and that the steering tube is normally cut to size so that it does not quite contact the ridge inside the locking nut.

Yes, normally two nuts are turned against each other in a threaded headset arrangement, but thats no longer what you have. If you drill and tap that nut for two grubscrews you`ll have an ideal alternative.

And I also mentioned that Giant manufactured threaded headsets with a top locking nut that already had grubscrews installed. If you can locate or order one - that`ll be a $3 solution that will let you use your current fork.

I`d have no reservations about using a secondhand carbon fork. If it shows no signs of delamination or cracking or abrasion that has exposed fibre - go ahead.

Once you have that headset nut installed you have the equivalent of a threded headset (although a hybrid solution). From that point you can use an adapter to convert from a gooseneck type stem to a threadless style stem without issue.

Please keep posting.

Well if I'm looking to upgrade my fork down the road, I wouldn't want to put epoxy on it cause then it would be more difficult to sell. (unless re tapping it will be easy?). I did a couple searches and couldn't find that headset.. maybe I'll have to ask lbs. Do you think that a little blue thread lock will accomplish the same task as using the epoxy? or teflon tape?

Wish there was always a cut and dry answer
 

Unfortunately things are usually relative. Since the upper threads will already be exposed, it would be a breeze to chase those threads and clean out anyhing in them if you had s die in that threadsize. If not - a wire brush would do the job but take a lot longer.

Resale on used forks isn`t just affected by condition - fit plays a critical role too. New forks are sold uncut. Used or even OM forks (sold as new but taken off new bikes) have been cut to fit a particular steering tube length. So your chances of selling this fork later are not only dependent on finding a buyer that likes the fork and condition, but also has a bike with a steering tube the same sie or smaller than yours.

I suggested filling the threads (inside the headset area only) to provide a smooth contact area for the tapered V-ring to use. Electrical tape or teflon tape will increase the diameter and still not provide the same thing. I might be being overly fussy - you can use your discretion on that one.

I have one of those Giant top locking nuts here on a machine. I`ll see about uploading a photo you can use as a reference.

I actually already have a buyer.... and told him that I'd do $45 shipped. I thought it was fair considering the age. Love to hear others thoughts on that though.... it's a cannondale slice fork. I have some 8.5" of steerer which will easily work on most bikes if threaded down a little more and cut (60cm frame).

Nice fork!
 

In fact probably nicer than anything you`ll get to replace it for two or three times what you`re selling it for. Personally I`d keep it. It won`t affect anything else you plan on doing.

$80 for a carbon fork new? wouldn't that be worth it?

Threaded route:

$20 run-of-the-mill headset (would have preferred dura ace or chris king.. so really $60-80)
$30-40 cinelli 1a stem in black
$30 smaller diameter bars
$0 used carbon fork I know nothing about

$60-80

Threadless route

$60 chris king headset that I'd get for a future bike anyways
$35 new fork (after selling old one)
$58 thomson stem new (after trading in some parts I didn't need to lbs)
<$10 spacers. (possibly free from lbs)
Piece of mind and good aesthetics - priceless
$0 FSA energy traditional bars 31.8 (got for free basically)

$153-$163

Just wanted to put it into perspective a little bit. So, for me, it's about twice as expensive. It's a good investment, in my opinion, to go threadless. I want to try the riser temporarily, but then I've got to buy a riser. Why don't I just get rid of the fork and do it the "right" way from the "beginning". Can anyone offer any ideas about new carbon forks?

Maybe you missed the point - or maybe I missed yours
 

At this point I`m getting the impression that you seem to think that tour Thompson stem and FSA bars can`t be used with anything except a threadless fork -WRONG!

Any $10 to$35 threaded to threadless conversion extension (available in different diameters) will let you do that. In fact - I for one was under the impression that that was pretty much what got this thread started in the first place.

As for carbon forks - three of the bikes that I personally built up this year using Thompson stems had DT Swiss carbon suspension forks and one had a rigid bladed fork. The rigid fork retailed for over $450 and the suspension forks run around $1,200 ea. Basicly for $100 you,re going to get garbage. You`d be better off using a decent cromoly fork or the one you have now. If you think there`s something about the fork you have now that is suspect - then you shouldn`t be selling it either.

And considering a bike an `investment`? And now, after initially insisting on using that threadless headset with that threaded fork you now want to `do things the right way` after its now been spelt out clearly enough how to do what you wanted to do in the first place - safely?

From my perspective this thread has turned out to be a very poor `investment` of my interest and expertise. Think I`ll just stop wasting my time.

To me there isnt any bad outcome to this thread, and I'm not agreeing that expertise was wasted. Personal choice changed, and I think it is not very difficult to respect.

I don't necessarily think there's anything wrong with the fork, but I rather have more certainty about it. I wanted a clean install too and I don't think I could do that with the riser and extra nuts.

While it may sound counterintuitive that I need theft protection and I'm going with a threadless set up, I'm happy with the pitlock system I currently have.

It might still be worth hanging on to what sounds like the original fork, at least until you get things worked out. There seems to be some differences in hard to measure fork dimensions that could make a small difference in ride characteristics. This may be less important with carbon forks but I think there is often some length variation there too besides offset, not that any change would be noticeable or bad.
Also, a lot of people prefer quill stems for their easy height adjustment, and that fork might be hard to replace.
I like the mechanics of theadless, especially getting rid of the stem wedge, and can somewhat relate to your situation, but I think a lot of people would be better off sticking with their original threaded fork, even with an adaptor for a new stem. I used to fiddle around a lot with my quill stem height and it was kind of nice to have that easy flexibility.

Yeah.. I have another bike with a threaded headset that I might swap over to use the 600 stem I have. For me, however, putting the other headset on still won't allow me to go higher with the 600 quill I have without sacrificing aesthetics. On my other steel road frame, there is actually a spacer in the threaded headset about 5/8" high. I doubt that will be able to fit on this cannondale fork.

I will go back to the shop and see if they have that giant lock nut. Otherwise out with the new and in with the old. I'll be without my geared road bike for a while unless i swap everything else over as well (this is supposed to be a FG/SS).

I would like pictures if you're still willing to post, Burton.

What's going on here? this was in a recent bike show...
threaded fork:

http://cdn3.media.cyclingnews.future...d_stem_600.jpg

Pictures have been taken
 

I`ll have them posted as an edit to this response over the next day or so.

This particular headset was branded with the Giant name but was manufactured by Tien Hsin and incorperates their `double lock` feature.

What you`re trying to do isn`t unheard of, in fact if you look at the Ahead website, they are currently marketing a modular system that will let a combination of components be used with either a threaded or unthreaded fork. The problem is - you don`t have an Ahead headset so you`re left scrambling looking for compatible parts to make what you do have do something it was never intended to do.

With the photos and manufacturer`s name, it should be possible to get what you need to do the job.

As a reference, Zoom also offers conversion stems for threaded forks to let you use steering stems and bars intended for threadless systems. They`re solid - I`m driving a machine with one on a BMX with cromoly bars and there`s no flex.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=192412http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=192411

OK thats both sides of the locking nut showing the two grub screws. That's a stock configuration. The hanger underneath is just for canti brakes.

That's nifty... will keep in mind for future builds.

finished product with new fork rides very nice. 18 pound bike. $55 stem new, fork was $80.. headset $65.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5211/...1fe8e47e_b.jpg

Picture in # 43
What's going on here? threaded fork:

a 7/8" plug quill with the stem gripping the plug .. Given it's Tom Ritchey,
you think the plug would be flush with the top of the hand brazed stem, at least.

some comments and suggestions
 

You`ve obviously gone out of your way to pick up some quality components so please don`t take any criticisms personally. I`m sure you want as good a build as possible and thats the intent.

The spacer stack height in this photo is unacceptably high. Typically spacer stack height between the headset and steering stem is 1 1/2 in on a steel tube and 25mm on a carbon tube. A steel tube on a threadless fork for example, is 45% thinner walled than the equivalent steel tube fork. It isn`t designed to take the same stress hence the angled steering stems to adjust handlebar height.

I`m noting that the Thompson stem you have installed looks like a 5 degree model and you can invert it and move some of the spacers above it and maintain the same handlebar height, but you might be better off with a 10 degree rise.

Is the bike frame sized to your build?

The handlebar tape also appears to have been installed from the bars downwards to the bar ends rather than the other way around. Bars are conventionally taped from the bar ends upwards because that orients the ridges in the same direction as your palm force when in the drop position.

Suggest you pick up a couple good reference books. The Zinn book advertised on this site is OK as is the Park Tool Big Blue Book. The Park Tool website also posts an extensive amount of tutorials and reference material. Its all free.

Checked with nashbar and they said 50mm was fine with this aluminum steerer. 10 degree rise. Meaning to get shorter spacers but have to redo steerer and move starnut...

handlebar tape was reused.. it ripped while reapplying it and thus is wrapped the wrong way. It was wrapped bottom up anyways on one side. other side is the same just reversed direction.

bike shop didn't hesitate looking at the 40mm spacer while helping me tension headset properly....

Looks like a cool bike. Is it single speed/fixed gear? I don't see any shifters.

Although it may not be critical I agree with Burton that flipping the stem may be better to give you less stack height while achieving the same handlebar position.

That is less than safe and should not be ridden far or fast. In fact I would not want to ride it that way. The center of the upper clamping screw is above the top of whatever stem it has and that means there is little to no support from the upper screw.

BCRider: that's not the setup in question currently.. That's ritchey's bike I believe.

FastJake: Yeah it is a single speed conversion. rides so nice with cane creek volos wheels and cf seatpost and fork....This r1000 is known for being "stiff" but I degress. Power transfer is insane

Re: steerer concerns:
lowering spacer height and flipping stem is on my to do list. I'll probably take it down to 25mm or so