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Using torque wrench to tighten socket head screws
Hi
Can anyone give me some advice on how to tighten bike components that need allen keys or screwdrivers to the required torque. I have a shiny new torque wrench 1/4 inch drive. Thanks Geoff |
Originally Posted by ggeoff
(Post 12209994)
Hi
Can anyone give me some advice on how to tighten bike components that need allen keys or screwdrivers to the required torque. I have a shiny new torque wrench 1/4 inch drive. Thanks Geoff |
Hopefully its in inch-pounds?
Originally Posted by ggeoff
(Post 12209994)
Hi
Can anyone give me some advice on how to tighten bike components that need allen keys or screwdrivers to the required torque. I have a shiny new torque wrench 1/4 inch drive. Thanks Geoff Suggest you pick up a set of metric allen head socket drives in the same size as your wrench if you don`t already have some. Aside from that - read the owners manual and the service manuals for the components you want to work on. Maximum torques are indicated directly on many modern components, otherwise they`re available in reference documents. Maximum is maximum and is for torquing dry components unless otherwise indicated. (anti-sieze compounds) Lubing threaded fasteners calls for caution and reduced torque afterwards. Using graphite pastes is similar. Most components today are precision fit and it doesn`t take a lot to secure them. Doesn`t take a lot to strip alloy either if you get overly enthusiastic. |
Geoff |
If you can't find 1/4" square drive hex sockets, you can use 3/8" drive hex sockets and a 1/4"F to 3/8"M adapter. Any hardware store, or home center has these also.
In fact, my Park 1/4" drive torque wrench included one of these adapters right in the box. |
???
I have 1/4 square female to 1/4" hex female adapter. This fits on the 1/4" drive wrench and takes any sort of widely available 1/4" hex drive bits commonly used in power screwdrivers and drills including flat and phillips screwdrivers, allen, torx etc. You can also simply use a 1/4" drive 1/4" hex socket with these bits. |
Originally Posted by Looigi
(Post 12210728)
???
I have 1/4 square female to 1/4" hex female adapter. This fits on the 1/4" drive wrench and takes any sort of widely available 1/4" hex drive bits commonly used in power screwdrivers and drills including flat and phillips screwdrivers, allen, torx etc. You can also simply use a 1/4" drive 1/4" hex socket with these bits. Another way to get hex bits is to cut down L-type allen wrenches using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel and super glue the stubs into appropriate size 1/4" square drive sockets. Lots of alternatives. |
Originally Posted by Burton
(Post 12210134)
Torque wrenches are available in ft-lbs as well as inch-pounds and there isn`t one that`ll cover every component on the bike. Typically a torque wrench has about a 5% error. Thats 5% of the total range of the wrench so for maximum accuracy you want ones with as narrow a range as possible. Particularly for small items like allen head bolts.
Suggest you pick up a set of metric allen head socket drives in the same size as your wrench if you don`t already have some. Aside from that - read the owners manual and the service manuals for the components you want to work on. Maximum torques are indicated directly on many modern components, otherwise they`re available in reference documents. Maximum is maximum and is for torquing dry components unless otherwise indicated. (anti-sieze compounds) Lubing threaded fasteners calls for caution and reduced torque afterwards. Using graphite pastes is similar. Most components today are precision fit and it doesn`t take a lot to secure them. Doesn`t take a lot to strip alloy either if you get overly enthusiastic. Geoff |
Is the right stuff really all that expensive?
Originally Posted by HillRider
(Post 12210777)
Good point. Those 1/4"square to 1/4" hex adapters are often included with packaged screwdriver/ratchet sets that have a huge variety of 1/4" hex drive bits.
Another way to get hex bits is to cut down L-type allen wrenches using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel and super glue the stubs into appropriate size 1/4" square drive sockets. Lots of alternatives. Unless the adapter used for the bits has a ball-lock feature or is magnitized, bits will simply fall out when you try to use them. Same for any 1/4 inch socket. That can get pretty frustrating, Yeah - I tried it. OK for some things, but if its worth putting out the coin for a few torque wrenches, the additional cost of the hex drives will be less than the tax on the wrenches. And the idea of scrapping a set of sockets and allen keys as well as LOTS of cut-off disks for a Dremel doesn`t sound very cost effective to me. But maybe in your case you got all that stuff for nothing so yeah - that might make it worth the time. Another item I particularly don`t recommend is those new electronic units that go onto a regular ratchet and give a digital torque readout with an audable beep in some ranges. Not particularly user friendly and unbelievably awkward to verify any reading outside the audable range (which happens to cover most bicycle applications). Tools designed specifically for the job are easier to use and get the job done faster with less frustration. Thats my experience and I may be particularly lazy. but I`d rather not make any job more difficult than it has to be. I`d much rather be having FUN doing it. |
Plus the adaptor adds the better part of an inch to the assembly, which often makes the difference in whether you can get it to the bolt or not.
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Originally Posted by DMF
(Post 12211233)
Plus the adaptor adds the better part of an inch to the assembly, which often makes the difference in whether you can get it to the bolt or not.
The only place on high end road bikes where that may be an issue is the rear fixing bolt.' Loads of basic 1/4" drive "bike specific" torque wrenches are available for about $50 MSRP. You'll need two wrenches, usually for the 0-20'ish NM and 20 - 60nm. |
Originally Posted by Burton
(Post 12211011)
Unless the adapter used for the bits has a ball-lock feature or is magnitized, bits will simply fall out when you try to use them. Same for any 1/4 inch socket.
Originally Posted by Burton
(Post 12211011)
And the idea of scrapping a set of sockets and allen keys as well as LOTS of cut-off disks for a Dremel doesn`t sound very cost effective to me. But maybe in your case you got all that stuff for nothing so yeah - that might make it worth the time.
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I went to a local Sears store and bought a set of Craftsman metric hex key sockets, 3/8" drive with a 1/4"x3/8" adapter. Cheap. Works great with a decent torque wrench. And Craftsman stuff has a lifetime guarantee...
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