Sturmey Archer SRF3 spacers - can they be removed?
#1
Junior Mint
Thread Starter
Sturmey Archer SRF3 spacers - can they be removed?
I have a Sturmey Archer SRF-3 hub, spaced at 126mm OLD. On either side is a dark-gray-colored 2 or 3mm spacer, as you can see in these images:


I don't want to remove the silver spacer, just the pair of dark ones.
Can I safely remove these spacers? As long as there is no issue with chainline, or with the cog hitting the seatstay or chainstay, are they necessary?
Thanks.
-Jim


I don't want to remove the silver spacer, just the pair of dark ones.
Can I safely remove these spacers? As long as there is no issue with chainline, or with the cog hitting the seatstay or chainstay, are they necessary?
Thanks.
-Jim
#2
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I suspect the hub is designed to be configured as either 126 or 120mm, maybe also 130mm. You'll know if the spacers are 3mm. If so, go ahead and remove them to make the hub 120mm.
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I'd throw a small washer in its place just to be safe that's just me though looks like you'd be OK jut taking em out all together. FBinNY has a very valid point.
#4
Junior Mint
Thread Starter
FB, my thoughts exactly, but I was not sure. I know they offer this hub in several different axle lengths.
Steel, why the washers?
The manual shows a "spacing washer" on only one side of the hub, if I am not mistaken. That lends weight to the theory that you can remove these washers.
I am imagining that the spacing washer is the silver one.
Those are offered in 1.6mm, 3.2mm, 4.8mm, and 6.4mm.
Steel, why the washers?
The manual shows a "spacing washer" on only one side of the hub, if I am not mistaken. That lends weight to the theory that you can remove these washers.
I am imagining that the spacing washer is the silver one.
Those are offered in 1.6mm, 3.2mm, 4.8mm, and 6.4mm.
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Yeah, pull 'em. No problemo.
You might have to put washer(s) under your HMN388 L.H. Dome Nut and HMN129 R.H. Axle Nut, outside the dropouts.
You might have to put washer(s) under your HMN388 L.H. Dome Nut and HMN129 R.H. Axle Nut, outside the dropouts.
#6
Banned
Might be able to find a thinner outer nut, too , one that has a raised ring with a sharp edge
around it to grip the inside face of the dropout better, to resist chain pull, made for bike axles
they are on the hubs on several of my bikes ,in horizontal dropouts need them or they shift
[if those re not made in such a manner already].
then get the axle spacers you require to fit.
I suppose there are cone wrench flats on both sides , though pictures are not showing them..
around it to grip the inside face of the dropout better, to resist chain pull, made for bike axles
they are on the hubs on several of my bikes ,in horizontal dropouts need them or they shift
[if those re not made in such a manner already].
then get the axle spacers you require to fit.
I suppose there are cone wrench flats on both sides , though pictures are not showing them..
#7
Junior Mint
Thread Starter
Nuts
Would those washers be to compensate for the extra length of the axle, and the fact that the LH nut is like an acorn nut (open only at one side)?
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There are some that feel that there should always be a washer between the cone and locknut, and if you have a keyed one that would be nice, but a plain washer is not of any real benefit there.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.