14R 

This chain has less than 800 miles on it, still looking good. However, after cleaning it for the first time following the right directions from bf, the link used to remove the chain is pretty stiff. I worked on removing the pin, bending it sideways and, after about one hour playing with it, I finally reached the "best" I can get. More I play with it, harder it gets.

While riding the bike, I can "feel" when the link passes the RL (well, it is just a chain tensioner, not really a rl, but you get the point).

Is it possible that I can damage cogs, chainring by allowing this to go miles and miles the way it is?

Here is a picture of how "off" the link is while pedaling:



Thank you in advance

PS: The link in question is above the letter "P" on park's logo.

RavingManiac

Don't know. Never had one I couldn't free up with a good lateral flex pressing both thumbs against the side plate of the offending link and pulling back with the fingers of both hands. It sounds like you already did that. All I can say is try again and be more agressive.

1saxman

You may have damaged a link plate hole on reassembly or scored the pin. If you're sure you have reset the pin perfectly, go ahead and get tough with the side flex - it has to work IF the pin you disturbed is not in a bind - just don't bend the plates. Is it possible you are pushing the pin too far or not far enough when you try to reset it? Usually they have a sweet spot where you can feel it ease into place - another half turn and its too far. Compare the exposed pin on each side to the others - see if you can see a difference. Are you sure the link went back exactly like it was? Really shouldn't make a difference, but maybe it does on that particular link.

operator

Let's not even bother mentioning that you're not supposed to reuse pins on that chain. You can clearly see the double peening marks on it.

jiminim

Use your chaintool to loosen up the link: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ct-5-ct-6-ct-7

FBinNY 

Yes, the Operator is absolutely right. A stiff link is the least of your problems.

Your chain has pins that are peened over the outside of the plates so the plates can't move outward. These can be cut with a conventional chain tool, but cannot be respliced by simply pushing the pin back.

If you ride this chain, even after freeing the link, you're at high risk of a plate moving out past the end of the pin, followed by your chain breaking. Chains always break at the worst possible moment - when you're applying high pedal force - and a snapped chain can cost you serious injury to your self and /or your bike.

Buy a master link of the correct width, ie. 8s, 9s etc. from KMC or Sram, and remove the outer link (the one over the P in park) by pressing the pins out of both ends, and replace it with the master link and you'll be good to go.

RavingManiac

Well I learned something new. I've been reusing those pins and never had a clue.

FBinNY 

If you have an older 6 or 7s bike without hyperglide (or gated shifting by any name) it doesn't matter. My advice was based on the chain itself and my assumption that you were riding 8s or newer.

Burton

I`m thinking that most manuals must be provided simply to protect the manufacturer from liability claims because looks like very few people actually read them.

You gotten some really great input from some posters already so I think its pretty clear that your `new chain with a stiff link` is actually a used chain with an issue where a pin was extracted and reinserted during servicing.

So lets explain the problem so understand why its a no-no. When a chain is new it comes with a pin already installed that can be used to make the initial installation provided :
(a) The chain is exactly the right length to start off with
(b) The chain is shortened from the other end
It also comes with a replacable link and / or a reinforced connecting pin.

As soon as a chain is joined, the metal is deformed. That shiny pin that comes half installed is a one time, initial use only.

Any subsequent time a chain needs to be seperated, it requires a reinforced connecting pin that has been engineered to compensate for the larger hole in the outer plate that is a result of installing/removing the initial pin.

Any subsequent time a chain needs to be `broken`. it needs to be at a different location and another reinforced connecting pin. Moreover, the recommendation is that the chain only be spliced at links on the leading end of the outer plate, using the chain drive direction to define `leading end`.

To further complicate the issue, those little `reinforced connecting pins` vary in length depending on chain type, are not standard between different manufacturers, and so ideally you want to keep a spare handy and know exactly what it is.

Yup - there are quick connect links too. And likewise - they come in different widths, don`t work with all chains and according to the manufacturer`s instructions: New chain - new link. They don`t last indefinately either.

OK so now what? Since you have an outer plate thats damaged, I wouldn`t recommend just a reinforced connecting pin. One option would be to use a quick connect link. Another would be to use two reinforced connecting pins and a short length of identical chain and to replace a few complete links.

Then you can ask your bf why he didn`t tell you all that in the first place.

lapazmike

Burton, got my old Trek 720 M-T used without manual to read, I appreciate your post on chain and this will serve as a reference 'link' on chain. Thanks

14R 

Thank you for all the information. After some robust lateral flexing, the chain went back "fully operational", but good to know I need replacement pins everytime I "open" the chain. I am actually thinking about having 2 chains, and have them on a rotation between cleaning/lubing every 500 miles or so.

I will be out buying some chain stuff tomorrow.

Once again, thank you.

PS: I have been using the Park Tool mentioned. I actually use predominantly Park stuff, one " pedro's" here and there, but most Park.

operator

If that's a sram chain then no such replacement pins exist. Their chains use a quicklink/powerlink type to close.

14R 

New chain placed. 2 extra reinforced pins purchased. Lesson learned. Case closed.

Thank you so much for all contributors.

ultraman6970

get a KMC chain with missing link. Best chains around in my opinion.

davidad

I'd go with this one. The master link is a great way to remove and service the chain.