Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

How do you bend canti pad post

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

How do you bend canti pad post

Old 02-20-11, 08:51 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 942

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
How do you bend canti pad post

I am putting some new brake pads/holders on a bike and when I just put them in and try to line them up the toeing is opposite of what it should be. There is no way to adjust this so I need to bend the post of the pad holders. Can anyone explain exactly how to bend the posts? I do not have vice. Just vice grips, pliers, wrenches, and so on. Thanks for any advice you may be able to provide.
Ciufalon is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 10:03 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington
Posts: 472

Bikes: Serotta Davis Phinney, 1992 Serotta T Max,1984 Specialized Allez, Olmo, 1974 Strawberry,Redline bmx, ect.,

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
They are adjustable but what are the brakes and or model of brake. There is a set of concave washers that float on the arm, 1 on the front of the brake mian arm and 1 on the backside but they maybe stuck to the rake so loosen everything up and if won't move then apply the brake lever and they shoiuld come loose. If you need more help look at Park tools website for details..
nwbikeman is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 10:10 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 942

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
The brakes are Dia Compe little frog leg type. The washers do not seem to be angled in any way and there is no difference no matter what position they are in. Everything is loose. I have other better brakes I can put on, but just wanted to learn how to bend the post of the brake pad holders, because I know it is sometimes necessary to do.
Ciufalon is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 10:16 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Shimagnolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Zang's Spur, CO
Posts: 9,085
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3351 Post(s)
Liked 5,400 Times in 2,796 Posts
I've never seen brakes w/o the concave+convex washers.
Did someone throw them away and replace them with flat washers?
Shimagnolo is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 10:17 PM
  #5  
Guest
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
Posts: 3,768

Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
What type of brakes are the ones you are adjusting?

Are you certain the pads are installed correctly and all parts are in the correct place?
LarDasse74 is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 10:20 PM
  #6  
Certified Bike Brat
 
Burton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 4,251
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
The short answer is - you don`t!

Originally Posted by Ciufalon
I am putting some new brake pads/holders on a bike and when I just put them in and try to line them up the toeing is opposite of what it should be. There is no way to adjust this so I need to bend the post of the pad holders. Can anyone explain exactly how to bend the posts? I do not have vice. Just vice grips, pliers, wrenches, and so on. Thanks for any advice you may be able to provide.
In fact you shouldn`t have to bend ANY breakpad!

But in your case the swivil movement should be built into the brake pad mounting mechanism. The fasteners need to be loosened before anything can be shifted.

Cantis can be a little frustrating to adjust correctly because both the distance to the rim and the brake pad angles are controlled by the one fastening mechanism.

Personally I find the best strategy is to tighten the brake cable using the adjuster at the handlebars lever to bring the brakes into a `closed` position where the pads will contact the rim and reset the adjuster once the brake pads have been positioned.

If you insist on toeing in the pads, a business card under one end of the pad will give the right spacing.

If you havent already picked up a repair manual - I suggest you buy one. It`ll simply your like a lot and the damage it might prevent will probably pay for the book quite quickly.

Last edited by Burton; 02-20-11 at 10:34 PM.
Burton is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 10:21 PM
  #7  
Guest
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
Posts: 3,768

Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Oh! Some old cantilever brakes had a bevelled washer instead of a concave washer. Perhaps this is one of those. Between the pad and the arm is a washer that appears flat but is actually a wedge (you have to look pretty closely to notice this - it is subtle). With this type of brake, to adjust toe-in you turn the washer.
LarDasse74 is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 10:24 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,505

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 139 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5681 Post(s)
Liked 2,386 Times in 1,320 Posts
I don't know of every brake made, but in over 40 years, going back to when cantilevers were SOP on European bikes, I've never seen any canti brake that didn't have a way to align the shoes without bending the posts.

Something is seriously wrong, or you're missing or mixing parts. Check again, or find documentation on setting up those brakes. Know that the posts are aluminum, and you bend them you could create a real risk of them breaking instead of braking.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 11:01 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 942

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
I am not mixing parts. The brakes are on a 1983 Fuji touring series IV. The washers and other parts are all there and original, but the do not seem to change in depth or angle as they are turned. and the pads sit closer to the rim at the rear than at the front where they need to be toed in. The brake pads/holders are Koolstops. I had no trouble with the front brake, this is only on the rear. I have heard before that bending the post on the brake pads/holders used to be done by bike shops all the time to get the toe in right. I know there are forum members that have done it and know how to do it. Maybe one will chime in. I definitely do not want to create the risk of breaking!

As I mentioned, I have much better brakes (XTR and XT) I can use and may just switch them out for now.
Ciufalon is offline  
Old 02-20-11, 11:22 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,505

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 139 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5681 Post(s)
Liked 2,386 Times in 1,320 Posts
You definitely don't want to bend a KoolStop post. KS canti shoes use a hollow post threaded onto a stud in the shoe. If you bend it you create a real risk of a stress riser and possible failure.

I dom't know what you've heard, but I've never heard of mechanics bending canti shoe posts. If the post bolt has no provision for shoe alignment, you're probably better off tweaking the brake itself, where you can spread the load over a larger area.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 02-21-11, 01:28 AM
  #11  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,354 Times in 861 Posts
Mafac shoes post is swaged in place. not too hard to hold the post
with pliers (parallel Jaw type are great!)
and bend the pad holder relative to the post..

now there are bolts thru the post that loosens a clamp,
and an angle scale printed on the shoe holder.
Tektro's TRP division makes some.

Last edited by fietsbob; 02-21-11 at 01:31 AM.
fietsbob is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Chesterton
Bicycle Mechanics
3
07-27-15 12:09 PM
wsherman21
Classic & Vintage
31
06-17-15 11:09 AM
hoyc
Bicycle Mechanics
19
01-19-14 12:23 AM
Black Jaque
Bicycle Mechanics
19
04-03-13 09:17 PM
bike-izle
Bicycle Mechanics
0
09-23-12 01:37 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.