Bike Forums - Uniglide/Hyperglide question

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

you may have FH-6207 hub

Its stamped on the hubshell, so it should be FH-6208 - at least the aluminium hubshel. Yes, maybe i would try to do magic with the spacers, first i must try it to run with chain and see how it works..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kimmo

Looking at that second pic, it looks like you have enough space between the last cog and the dropout.

Shifting to that cog will probably suck because of its longer teeth, though. If that bothers you, there's always my way...

That second pic is 5 HG new and one (UG old) to lock it.. - that compilation will fit, but no more cogs will fit there (as i describe why in prev. post..
And yes, i will probably later try to unmount that freewheel body and try to replyce it with some HG nut.. for now i am trying to solve it without unmounting that fw nut.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Asi

So if you want a lockring like thing to screw on - get hold of a BB lockring - it works.
If you want the EXACT same threading, well part number 10 out of a particular bmx hub is with the EXACT same threading: http://www.paul-lange.de/fileadmin/p...FH/FH-MX66.PDF

Good solution, will try it out!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Asi

To use your indexed 6speed shifter you would have to ensure the correct spacing. Now You have the 7speed spacing that is 5mm center to center (that is 5mm=thickness of the cog+a spacer). For 6speed you would need 5.3mm center to center - that means you would have to come up with a 0.3mm spacer to add to each existing spacer, or replace the space with one that is thicker by 0.3mm - you will reach just about right with the 5th cog, and then you will use the built in spacer of the threaded cog (putting it properly with the teeth side on the outside) You'll make a true 6speed spacing. As I said, now you have 7speed spacing with 6cogs.

Don't tighten that cassette too hard for now, as I can see you are missing the spokes and rim. So you'll have to take it off when you build the wheel.

For fiddling with spacing, always use calipers, and always measure cog+intended spacer because cogs are not always the same thickness and the spacing is about center-to-center not the spacer itself. If you cross thin with thick cogs then it's more fiddling, you have to measure with the caliper across or between 2 cogs and subtract or add half of each cog thickness (that you also measure).

And if I brought up the subject, your spacing is 7speed 5mm, EXCEPT for the last cog. The last cog is thicker. To make good use of a 7speed index shifter you would have to file down the spacer by required amount: measure across the last cog and 5th cog and note the distance(A). Measure thickness of the threaded cog (B), and the thickness of the 5th cog (C). Calculate A-B/2-C/2="something". this "something" needs to be 5mm, and I suspect you have about 5.1-5.2mm right now. Measure your spacer (D) and you need to make this spacer to be the required size: required actual spacer size= D - ("something" - 5mm). Grind until you reach the correct size.
Use calipers.

Uf, than finally ill go to heaven? ;D

I think i will instead of fiddling with spacers simply use friction shifter in this case.. so i have time to RIDE the bike :) And maybe later try to replace that fw nut (but there could be issue what DannoXYZ mentioned..

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Nope, unfortunately for you, the mid-'80s FH-6208 600EX 7-spd Uniglide hub is the last of the 2nd-generation screw-on freehub-bodies. It cannot take the 3rd-generation bolt-on bodies that uses the 10mm hollow bolt.

so i will probably dissasemble it and have a look on it..

Another aspect of your modification is that the last cog should stay the proper way still because the cog has twist tooth design to aid shifting. By putting it backward, may be hard to shift onto and off it. Do you have enough threads covered by the last spacer? If yes, remove the spacer and flip the last cog as intended, resting on the built-in spacer, not to mess the already poor shifting between very similar size cogs.

And about product code, maybe it's 6208body with a swapped freehub from a 6speed. Clearly your freehub is fit for 6speed only (or as many as you like with the right spacers and friction shifters using ultra narrow 10sp chain with ultrathin 10sp cogs and spacers.. fit as much as you can. :P )

Quote:

Originally Posted by duropero (Post 14438533)

Uf, than finally ill go to heaven? ;D

For that you need and extra spacer to reach the stairway to heaven (or an electric guitar) :innocent: ;)

I have just disassembled it and found, that there is that 10mm imbus hole.. but would be difficult to unscrew it while its not mounted on rims... (you know what i mean..) btw, cones and balls are in excellent condition..

So you're in the clear for HG, you can forget all that mucking around.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kimmo (Post 14438890)

So you're in the clear for HG, you can forget all that mucking around.

First i must find proper fw nut.. there are differences in attachment to the hub body..

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ (Post 14434530)

Are you sure? I have taken apart many Shimano 600 and Dura-Ace hubs, and I have only seen what is shown in the picture in the 2nd generation Dura-Ace hubs. I think that with 600 Shimano went directly from the first-generation press-fit body to the 3rd generation 10mm hollow bolt.

I have upgraded several older 600 Uniglide-style hubs to Hyperglide freehubs. No issues.

I have also upgraded several of the first-generation 600 press-fit hubs to 8/9/10 speed Hyperglide freehubs, without using the hollow fixing bolt. Bolt really isn't needed as the hub axle and cones holds everything together.

Interesting topic.

I have the same problem with the old style 600 hubs that have a screw on last cog.

Now as others mention just buy a 5/6 speed pignon remove the cogs and handfile the biggest spline to fit.

No problem there and use the spacers.

So so good,but what if one doesn't have the last screw on cog to secure the rest.

Is there an alternative to get.

As mentioned, a BB lockring can be substituted for the last cog.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Mayer (Post 14442577)

Bolt really isn't needed as the hub axle and cones holds everything together.

I'd advise against that... it won't be as strong, that's for sure. Probably a pretty bad idea if you weigh more than 80kg, I'm guessing.

Good news, HG freewheel nut and casette on 600 hub installed. After study of many shimano docsheets, i went around a nice bicycle shop where they gave me an whole old mtb rear wheel for free :o (what a nice experience.. it was dirty as hell :D, but.. otherwise they would throw it away..) The hub which i robbed was FHRM40 hub with a Y-3SL98030 fw body. (there is more options as i learned from docsheets, but this one run across, so..) I tought that newermind its 8cog body, i would have room for spacers to adjust it to index shifting, but then, installed chain, and what a surprise, its working with old indexed 600ex shifter without any change on new HG casette. It has similar sound like on my old MTB bike (i could robb the 7cog hub from that bike than i realised.. but no way, that one should stay intact :D)

..dont care about the gap between 28T (last cog) and spokes.. thats ok, the chain is not jumping inbetween.. There is now still place for 8th cog if i choose to.. (than with friction shifting).
here it is: http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=261958

..only thing that bothers me, is that the hub body is now abit to the left (because of 8cog fw body), so the spokes on the right (by dishing) would be maybe too straight to the rim? Hmm..

Yes, you will have very bad dish with that configuration. I would remove about 5-8mm of axle spacers from the right and put on left side to centre the hub. Configure so that smallest cog is 3.5-4.0mm away from the dropout inner face. The chain should barely clear the dropout. This reduces dish to a minimum and gives you the strongest wheel possible.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ (Post 14492534)

Excellent!, thank you, that should help! ((did work.. won some mm also by replacing spacer on freewheel body.. and the lockring still locks the casette..)) Thx all for your help.