PB Blaster as cable lube?
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PB Blaster as cable lube?
I was reading about all the things you can use PB Blaster on when I was changing the bottom bracket bearings and after reading about how it both lubricates and penetrates into hard to lube spots I wondered how it would work as a cable lube. I bet I'm not the only one to wonder this, how well does it work?
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I would be worried that solvents in PB Blaster would damage cable lining. I don't know if that's a real concern or not because I've never tried it. I just use a drop of chain lube every once in a while.
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#4
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Yep. One of the reasons I wouldn't even try using it on cables is because of what a mess it would make. Even with the straw it seems to end up everywhere.
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Dow Chemical #41 rubbed into the cable - only where it rides in the casing - then wipe off excess such that light film only remains has done the job remarkably well f' me.
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Plus PB Blaster smells like a very dirty car mechanic's garage. I only use it to remove stuck things, before cleaning any leftover PB off with a thorough wash and wax.
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PB blaster can stain paint and vinyl, so I would guess if you have light colored cable casings, mainly white, they could get discolored. I had a can of it sitting on an old white painted tool cart, it stained the enamel where the straw dribbled on the paint for years. It also takes off some decals, I've used it in a pinch to remove bumper sticker adhesive on cars, so I'd be concerned about the decals on the bike as well.
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PB Blaster would work BADLY as a cable lube. It's far too thin and too volatile to do any real good. For my own part I rub a film of Park grease into the cable before I thread the housing on and I've yet to have any real problems with sticking cables.
This is why you shouldn't trim your cable ends too short, because even if the ends get frayed you should be able to trim them back to a clean end for re-threading. Crimp-on caps are cheap and do more than just keep you from hurting yourself.
This is why you shouldn't trim your cable ends too short, because even if the ends get frayed you should be able to trim them back to a clean end for re-threading. Crimp-on caps are cheap and do more than just keep you from hurting yourself.
#11
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Ok, I gotta ask. Whats wrong with OIL as a cable lubricant?
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Slip it over the end of the housing, tighten it down, insert the aerosol straw into the port, and squirt your lube into the housing. Not completely mess free, but works pretty well.
#14
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Been using it for 27/28 years without any problems so far.
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L3 Housing
You guys know that most of the housing
on the market now is teflon lined as part
of the production process, right?
Personally I run a fingertip load of grease
along cables, and I've even been known
to use paste wax, but at this point I
think it's mostly force of habit. So
I'd hate to see this degenerate into
another lubrication thread controversy.
Not saying it will, just seems kinda
inconsequential.
on the market now is teflon lined as part
of the production process, right?
Personally I run a fingertip load of grease
along cables, and I've even been known
to use paste wax, but at this point I
think it's mostly force of habit. So
I'd hate to see this degenerate into
another lubrication thread controversy.
Not saying it will, just seems kinda
inconsequential.
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I think a dry lube such as Liquid Wrench beige can dry lube, or a fortified penetrating oil such as Schaeffer's Penetro 90: https://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/190_Penetro.html or LPS 1/2/3 would work better here. I used Tri-Flow in a pinch when I was upgrading my front drivetrain. But when the time comes to relube my cables, I'm using the latter.
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