Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

A few IGH drivetrain questions

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

A few IGH drivetrain questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-01-11, 07:13 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
A few IGH drivetrain questions

I'm putting together a build around a new Shimano Alfine 11 internally geared hub (specs here: https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/hub/190).

I already have a Shimano Tiagra FC4500 crankset set up (https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Crankset.aspx), which has two rings (39-52).

Obviously, since I'm going to run an IGH, I only want one chainring. I was thinking of going with a 42T chainring (and a 22T cog).

I have a few questions:
--Can I just remove the current chainrings and put any 44T 5-bolt chainring on? Do I need to get a fixed gear/single speed-specific chainring for any reason (if such a thing even exists)?
--Am I going to have any problem with the chainline? I had assumed that I could just throw a new chainring on my current cranks, swap out the hub, and the chainline would just sort of line up. Is this assumption off base? There's no chance I'd need to get a different crankset, is there?
--I assume I'll need a fixed gear/single speed chain, right?
2wheelcommute is offline  
Old 03-01-11, 07:37 PM
  #2  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
You may be able to use an inner of a double chainring,
though Surly's Stainless steel chainrings are very nice.
[that's what I used on my Rohloff Hub bike]
Older pre index chainrings may work .. its the rampe and shifting aides you want to avoid.

chain .. match the cog on the hub .. 3/32" or 1/8''

single speed chains don't need the short flush pins that derailleur chains have featured

you can use a wider 1/8" chain on narrower 3/32" chainrings
fietsbob is offline  
Old 03-01-11, 07:53 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Grand Bois's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times in 25 Posts
You really believe that ramps and pins on the side of a ring will have some effect on the chain when that ring is used as a single? That's ridiculous! The chain will never contact those ramps and pins. The fact the teeth tend to be shorter doesn't cause problems either.
Grand Bois is offline  
Old 03-01-11, 08:44 PM
  #4  
Don from Austin Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,211

Bikes: Schwinn S25 "department store crap" FS MTB, home-made CF 26" hybrid, CF road bike with straight bar, various wierd frankenbikes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by 2wheelcommute
I'm putting together a build around a new Shimano Alfine 11 internally geared hub (specs here: https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/hub/190).

I already have a Shimano Tiagra FC4500 crankset set up (https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Crankset.aspx), which has two rings (39-52).

Obviously, since I'm going to run an IGH, I only want one chainring. I was thinking of going with a 42T chainring (and a 22T cog).

I have a few questions:
--Can I just remove the current chainrings and put any 44T 5-bolt chainring on? Do I need to get a fixed gear/single speed-specific chainring for any reason (if such a thing even exists)?
--Am I going to have any problem with the chainline? I had assumed that I could just throw a new chainring on my current cranks, swap out the hub, and the chainline would just sort of line up. Is this assumption off base? There's no chance I'd need to get a different crankset, is there?
--I assume I'll need a fixed gear/single speed chain, right?
I just built a bike with the 11 speed Alfine. Loved it, but, sad to say, after no more than 100 miles, I just sent the hub back to Shimano as it started to go south inside. We shall see how good their warranty service is and how the replacement holds up.

Don in Austin
Don in Austin is offline  
Old 03-01-11, 10:23 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the early feedback, folks.

Don, I'm so sorry to hear about your bad experience. 100 miles? Damn. I'd be very interested to hear how their warranty service is an how the replacement holds up.
2wheelcommute is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 02:25 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Monster Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Warwick, UK
Posts: 1,049

Bikes: 2000-something 3 speed commuter, 1990-something Raleigh Scorpion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I use old-type 5/6/7-speed chain that was originally on my bike with a 3-speed IGH. I even still have the triple crankset. As long as the chainline is fairly good and the chain isn't hanging loose, you shouldn't have a problem. I would just keep the double crankset you have, maybe filing down the teeth of the larger chainring to make a chainring guard as a few others have done.
Monster Pete is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 02:32 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 93
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Keep your 39t ring and get a 20t cog instead. That would give you a gearing very similar to 42-22.
Boye is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 09:41 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Cross Creek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 346

Bikes: 2013 Rivendell Sam, 1996 Bianchi Milano, 1994 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 4 Posts
If the 11 spd Alfine uses the same cogs as the 3/7/8 spd Nexus/Alfine hubs, you can mount it with the teeth facing either inward or outward (makes more sense when you see it in person). This allows quite a bit of chainline adjustment. +2 on using the inner 39 tooth chainring and turning the outer into a guard, but there are lots of options, some requiring a shorter BB spindle, and yes, there are certainly single speed chainrings available. BTW, chainrings come in different bolt circle diameters, so they're not all interchangeable by number of bolts--measure your center to center bolt distance (in millimeters) between two adjacent bolt holes if it's not marked on the spider or chainring.
CC
Cross Creek is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 11:42 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Cross Creek
If the 11 spd Alfine uses the same cogs as the 3/7/8 spd Nexus/Alfine hubs, you can mount it with the teeth facing either inward or outward (makes more sense when you see it in person). This allows quite a bit of chainline adjustment. +2 on using the inner 39 tooth chainring and turning the outer into a guard, but there are lots of options, some requiring a shorter BB spindle, and yes, there are certainly single speed chainrings available. BTW, chainrings come in different bolt circle diameters, so they're not all interchangeable by number of bolts--measure your center to center bolt distance (in millimeters) between two adjacent bolt holes if it's not marked on the spider or chainring.
CC
Hadn't even considered different center to bolt distances--thanks for the tip.

The only reason I was thinking about 44/22 over 39/20 was because most of the chainguards I've been looking at are for larger 44T chainrings. I suppose there's nothing stopping me from using a larger chainguard and smaller chainring, though, right? (although it seems that it may look a little odd...)
2wheelcommute is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 12:45 PM
  #10  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
Bigger chainguard can be a more effective greasy trouser leg protection.

Cyclocrossworld.com has a bunch of chainguards, nicely finished in black annodize.
https://cyclocrossworld.stores.yahoo....okalchain.html

I got a 110- 38 for my R'off bike , replaced the Stronglight Mygal which has a 130 39t guard.
Self extracting fixing bolt stripped out the crank arm without budging it.

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-02-11 at 03:33 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 02:04 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hmmm, I was thinking of a chainguard that offers more coverage (at least a "hockey stick" style one--maybe one like this: https://www.amazon.com/SKS-22907D0400...9096108&sr=1-8). They seem to be made pretty exclusively for relatively larger sized chainrings.

You've used the circular chainring guards--are they fairly effective (against both staining and catching a pant leg)?
2wheelcommute is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 02:18 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Monster Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Warwick, UK
Posts: 1,049

Bikes: 2000-something 3 speed commuter, 1990-something Raleigh Scorpion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
The circular guards do a fairly good job in my experience at keeping clothes out of the chain. Your trouser leg may get a bit grubby though from the upper run of the chain. You should get on alright with the linked chain guard as this covers the upper chain as well as the whole chainring. Although it is listed as for 42-44 tooth rings it should still protect a 39t.
Monster Pete is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 04:56 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Got it. Thanks.
2wheelcommute is offline  
Old 03-02-11, 05:31 PM
  #14  
It's got electrolytes!
 
chucky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,388

Bikes: Self-designed carbon fiber highracer, BikesDirect Kilo WT5, Pacific Cycles Carryme, Dahon Boardwalk with custom Sturmey Archer wheelset

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 2wheelcommute
I
I have a few questions:
--Can I just remove the current chainrings and put any 44T 5-bolt chainring on? Do I need to get a fixed gear/single speed-specific chainring for any reason (if such a thing even exists)?
--Am I going to have any problem with the chainline? I had assumed that I could just throw a new chainring on my current cranks, swap out the hub, and the chainline would just sort of line up. Is this assumption off base? There's no chance I'd need to get a different crankset, is there?
--I assume I'll need a fixed gear/single speed chain, right?
-You need to replace your chainring bolts with "short"/"single speed" chainring bolts.
-The drivetrain will be more efficient if you sort out the chainline. However, you don't have to do it. After all derailleurs always operate with bad chainlines and IGHs are much more robust.
-You don't need fixed gear/single speed chain. In fact, IMO with the Alfine 3/32" "8-9 speed" chain is preferable...although 11/128" "10 speed" chain will cause problems.
chucky is offline  
Old 03-03-11, 12:28 PM
  #15  
afraid of whales
 
Mr IGH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Front Range, CO
Posts: 4,306
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 347 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by chucky
-The drivetrain will be more efficient if you sort out the chainline....
I just measured my Tiagra double cranks, if he used the inner ring position on the cranks and flips the Shimano Alfine cog inward he'll be within a millimeter or two of perfect chainline.
Mr IGH is offline  
Old 03-03-11, 01:23 PM
  #16  
It's got electrolytes!
 
chucky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,388

Bikes: Self-designed carbon fiber highracer, BikesDirect Kilo WT5, Pacific Cycles Carryme, Dahon Boardwalk with custom Sturmey Archer wheelset

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mr IGH
I just measured my Tiagra double cranks, if he used the inner ring position on the cranks and flips the Shimano Alfine cog inward he'll be within a millimeter or two of perfect chainline.
In addition to the cranks themselves, with square taper bottom brackets the spindle length and taper (ISO vs JIS) will also affect chainline. Splined bottom brackets fortunately do not have taper, but I'm not sure if they have different spindle lengths.

If the OP really wanted to perfect the chainline he could also get a mm or two of additional adjustment by using a non-Shimano cog. There's a table for adjusting chainline via cog selection here:
https://www.hubgear.net/sprockets.html
chucky is offline  
Old 03-03-11, 01:37 PM
  #17  
afraid of whales
 
Mr IGH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Front Range, CO
Posts: 4,306
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 347 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Sorry, I assumed his cranks were Tiagra 2 piece cranks, if it's a 3 piece set-up you're right.
Mr IGH is offline  
Old 03-03-11, 03:02 PM
  #18  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
Hebie chain-gliders enclose the chain fully,plastic, in 38 and 42 t sizes, the back portion either
for Shimano Or Rohloff IG Hubs.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 03-03-11, 05:27 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mr IGH
I just measured my Tiagra double cranks, if he used the inner ring position on the cranks and flips the Shimano Alfine cog inward he'll be within a millimeter or two of perfect chainline.
Nice! Yeah, I've got the 2 piece.

And thanks everyone else for your great suggestions too. Those Herbie Chaingliders look great--I hadn't seen those before.
2wheelcommute is offline  
Old 03-03-11, 07:52 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 619
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
You can get chainring spacers for additional fine-tuning, or just use washers. I would try to do that before messing with the BB.
relyt is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tandem Tom
Bicycle Mechanics
4
03-16-19 03:07 PM
taguy4
Classic & Vintage
3
02-18-18 01:10 AM
AndjaVXC
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
12
04-22-16 05:43 PM
Micheal Blue
Touring
4
01-10-12 06:45 AM
Philphine
Bicycle Mechanics
9
07-25-11 12:38 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.