rbpanaligan

I have a Centurion Road Bike that I stripped down to the fork and frame that I'm goin to paint.

I bought paint stripper to use for the project. My question what should I use to clean the frame after I use it? Should I wipe it down with a wet towel or use soap?

Which spray paint is good for frames? What should I do to help make sure the pair doesn't chip easily?

It would be great if someone can post some links of DIY painting guides.

dabac

I'd rinse thoroughly with water, then wipe dry. Probably give it a last wipe down using methylated spirits before painting.

As a rule I advise against painting frames. Whatever paint that can be applied home will be significantly softer than the factory paint. These days if I decide a frame is so far gone as to require a repaint I just use Hammerite.

For spray paints the trick is several thin layers, and allow plenty of time (week) between painting and assembly. Clear coat on top help too.

jimc101

If you just want a hardwearing finish, go to a powdercoating shop, get them to blast it, and powdercoat it, this will be hardwearing, and pretty simple; most powdershops can do this, but you will need to get the BB / headset faced / reamed.

If you want it to look good, then go professional bike frame painter.

If doing a home paint, as dabac say's, it will be soft, you may as well use what ever you have, as it won't last, or use hammerite

Retro Grouch 

If you do much of a search you should bind more threads on this topic than you have time to read.

I've done several rattle can bike frame paintings. Contrary to what others will tell you, mine don't chip easily and generally last for several years. They do not, however, rival a factory paint job. The next time that I do one I think that it's going to the powder coater. I get the satisfaction of having done it myself, but that's about it.

mymojo

There is a product called Duracoat that works very well. I used it on a couple of pistols in the past and got really good results. However, I dont know if the size of the project would make it price prohibitive or not.

1saxman

It may not be necessary to strip the frame. Sand the old paint to act as a subtrate for the new finish. Sand any bare steel and apply primer - always use a 'tack cloth' to remove sanding dust before priming or painting - the glossy finish coat will highlight any imperfections. Apply any of the excellent colors in the 'Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with Ceramic' selection found at Wal mart and auto parts places. If possible, let this paint cure for a week in a hot, dry place, like a shed in the summer.

https://www.duplicolor.com/products/enginePaint/

HPSFroadrunner

I have a lot of experience painting. I just typed a huge thread with all sorts of great quick painting tips. Then I bumper my mouse, and lost it all. SO, I will give the quick, most pressing advise, and try to add more, cuz I gotta get moving.

ALways wear clean rubber gloves when handling bare metal to be painted!

Never 'wash' a frame with water, before PRIMING, and painting. One problem with chemical strippers is that they require clean-up of the residue. SO, if you have to clean, and neutralize the stripper with water, immediately dry as good as possible (hair dryer works great after towel) Next sand REALLY good. Not smooth, but roughed up, and clean. You are going for any residues, and rust (microscopic really) that may be remaining. A little rough is good too, since there is more surface area for the primer to stick to. Metal is not porous like wood, so roughing it helps. After sanding I use 3m sanding pads. They are like the 'green scrubby' dish cleaning things, but made for wood or metal. I do a little sanding with them, but they are nice because they attract the dust into the fibers. If you have compressed air, you can hit it lightly with that, but ONLY if you have a decent moisture trap. Any water/oil at this point is terrible. Next, hit it with a tack cloth. Several times, and I like to use 2 or more. One dirtier pass, then a fresh one. I also like to give it a solvent 'wash' a few minutes before painting. There are commercial products such as "prep all', but I usually use one of the solvents in the primer I am using. I only use professional "auto" grade primers and paints if I have to paint a frame. Often they are better then the factory stuff. I would do all of this, as close together as possible. Best to get it stripped---> top-coat as quickly as possible. You will want to allow sufficient time between coats, but waiting to long between primer and paint is bad too. WHen priming, just give it the lightest dusting, the faintest whisper of a coat. Never try to coat it so thickly, as to not be able to see the metal underneath. Primer is just an adhesive layer for the paint to stick to. It's a bonding agent between the surface and the paint. There's exceptions, but as a rule, I only go as thick with my paint and primer as I absolutely need. This is because (generally) the thinner you can apply the paint, the BETTER it is at resisting scratches. I know it doesn't sound right, but it is true. Trust me.

For the best advise on painting bike frames, check out automobile forums. Those guys are pure artists with paint, and have the best knowledge, and experience of any painters. I also strongly urge anyone that want to paint bike frames, to get a modest compressor (best home-owner tool to own anyway, since it opens a whole new world of tools) and a paint gun. Home depot had a great little gun that was perfect for small batch stuff like a bike. I think I paid $25 for my first one, and about $30 for the second. This will allow you to use professional grade paints and primers. Epoxy based primers stick much better than spray can stuff, and paints are available in one, (single clear/base coat) and two stage (separate base, and clear). Two-stage can be real tricky for the un-experienced and impatient. These paints can be VERY expensive too, but a little goes a LONG way. I could probably do 10 frames with one quart of base color.

HPSFroadrunner

and still it came out an epic post...sigh

rbpanaligan

thanks for the informative post!