Road Bike Chain Sizing
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Road Bike Chain Sizing
I need to size my new chain on my road bike. Dont have the old one to help but is the large chain-ring to large Cassette cog plus three links still the preferred way of doing it? I will be using the 1091R chain from sram and their power link.
Thanks!
Brad
Thanks!
Brad
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Yes, large/large plus 1" or 2 links is minimum, so if you end up with an odd number you go up to 1-1/2".
You can also work from the other end, threading the RD, looping the small/small and pulling up until the RD begins to take tension. This gives you the maximum length.
Anything that passes both tests is OK. If the chainring and cassette ranges add up to less than the RDs capacity, either measurement alone will work, but if pushing the limits I strongly urge doing both tests, and in no case running a chain too short to safely loop the big/big.
You can also work from the other end, threading the RD, looping the small/small and pulling up until the RD begins to take tension. This gives you the maximum length.
Anything that passes both tests is OK. If the chainring and cassette ranges add up to less than the RDs capacity, either measurement alone will work, but if pushing the limits I strongly urge doing both tests, and in no case running a chain too short to safely loop the big/big.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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I personally have never used that particular method...and to toot my own horn a bit, I was a very good professional mechanic for many, many years. That being said, that was before the market was saturated with "compact" drive-trains. Although, I think it would work just fine. I always go big ring to small cog...and then tension the chain so the pulley bolts are perpendicular to the ground. If you can't get it right on, just make it a tad shorter. This will generally allow you to have the best chain tension, with the least chain slap and of course, you should not ride small ring/small cog or big ring/big cog.
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I personally have never used that particular method...and to toot my own horn a bit, I was a very good professional mechanic for many, many years. That being said, that was before the market was saturated with "compact" drive-trains. Although, I think it would work just fine. I always go big ring to small cog...and then tension the chain so the pulley bolts are perpendicular to the ground. If you can't get it right on, just make it a tad shorter. This will generally allow you to have the best chain tension, with the least chain slap and of course, you should not ride small ring/small cog or big ring/big cog.
There's really no reason to use this antiquated inaccurate method of chain sizing anymore.
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I'm old school and prefer to set chains up much nearer to the max length. This gives me the freedom to increase the cassette size, or cut out a bad link later on. Of coiurse that means that all the bikes I set up have a weight penalty by an inch or two of chain.
BTW- looping big/big is probably the oldest method for finding the minimum length.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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It isn't that one method is "right" or wrong, or antiquated. Big/big+ determines the minimum length, small/small w/no slack is the maximum length. When there's a range between the two, whatever works best within the range is the best length.
I'm old school and prefer to set chains up much nearer to the max length. This gives me the freedom to increase the cassette size, or cut out a bad link later on. Of coiurse that means that all the bikes I set up have a weight penalty by an inch or two of chain.
I'm old school and prefer to set chains up much nearer to the max length. This gives me the freedom to increase the cassette size, or cut out a bad link later on. Of coiurse that means that all the bikes I set up have a weight penalty by an inch or two of chain.
Small/small with no slack is not a valid test for maximum length - because b screw adjustment will affect this.
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I can't fathom why when setting up a chain on a 11/21 cassette, I should cut it so short that a new chain would be required if switching to a 12-25 cassette for a hillier ride. But that's just me, I consider what's necessary, then look beyond to what's possible.
If you can tell me a technical reason why extra chain is problematic (other than weight) I'll be glad to listen, but until then we'll just agree to disagree on this point.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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That extra link on a system that is setup to max capcity of the rear derailleur means that it will be slack in the small/small combo. I've seen this before.
I guess you can tailor it to the application, but why bother calculating whether its at capacity or not. Big/Big eliminates any and all confusion.
Also, going back to the above. Setting the chain length with the derailleur pependicular method allows you to set a too short chain length if the derailleur does not have enough capacity. Big/Big + 2 eliminates this problem. It is always reliable, regardless.
I guess you can tailor it to the application, but why bother calculating whether its at capacity or not. Big/Big eliminates any and all confusion.
Also, going back to the above. Setting the chain length with the derailleur pependicular method allows you to set a too short chain length if the derailleur does not have enough capacity. Big/Big + 2 eliminates this problem. It is always reliable, regardless.
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That extra link on a system that is setup to max capcity of the rear derailleur means that it will be slack in the small/small combo. I've seen this before.
I guess you can tailor it to the application, but why bother calculating whether its at capacity or not. Big/Big eliminates any and all confusion.
Also, going back to the above. Setting the chain length with the derailleur pependicular method allows you to set a too short chain length if the derailleur does not have enough capacity. Big/Big + 2 eliminates this problem. It is always reliable, regardless.
I guess you can tailor it to the application, but why bother calculating whether its at capacity or not. Big/Big eliminates any and all confusion.
Also, going back to the above. Setting the chain length with the derailleur pependicular method allows you to set a too short chain length if the derailleur does not have enough capacity. Big/Big + 2 eliminates this problem. It is always reliable, regardless.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.