Cannondale Criterium How many gears
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Cannondale Criterium How many gears
I'm trying to rehab a really old Cannondale Criterium. It's probably an 81 or an 82.
The bike shop did some work on it and I thought it was good to go, but it appears to only have about 6 gears. This does not sound right.
All the gears I have available, are switched with the right shifter. The left shifter does nothing at all. I take it something is way off? Thanks.
Here are the pics of the bike, the shifters and the parts on the wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36858763@N00/5557021630/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36858763@N00/5556437733/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36858763@N00/5557025554/
The bike shop did some work on it and I thought it was good to go, but it appears to only have about 6 gears. This does not sound right.
All the gears I have available, are switched with the right shifter. The left shifter does nothing at all. I take it something is way off? Thanks.
Here are the pics of the bike, the shifters and the parts on the wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36858763@N00/5557021630/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36858763@N00/5556437733/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36858763@N00/5557025554/
#2
Constant tinkerer
You have 6 gears in the back and 2 in the front. As you've discovered, the 6 in the back are shifted with the right shifter, and the 2 up front should be shifted by the left shifter. I suspect your front derailer cable is too loose to move the derailer up to the big ring. Or your limit stop is set incorrectly. Or the derailer is broken.
Did you pay the shop to work on the gears? This is a very obvious issue they should've corrected.
Did you pay the shop to work on the gears? This is a very obvious issue they should've corrected.
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Thinking of more like a late 80's or early 90's model as it has Biopace, and Cannondale didn't make road bikes in 81.
Would go with the cable either being too loose, or the mech is not adjusted correctly; and yes if you paid for the setup, they should have fixed this.
Also, those hoods are pretty rough, being a contact point, you may want to replace them, as well as the bar tape, as it will make the bike a lot nicer to ride
Would go with the cable either being too loose, or the mech is not adjusted correctly; and yes if you paid for the setup, they should have fixed this.
Also, those hoods are pretty rough, being a contact point, you may want to replace them, as well as the bar tape, as it will make the bike a lot nicer to ride
#4
Banned
you can count the cogs on the rear wheel..
and you can measure how wide the inside space between
the rear dropouts..
If there is 126mm (Like 5") between the dropouts .. that's all you got ..6 ...
or 7, which is just making space between the cogs narrower to get another one in the same frame.
Given : cannot spread an aluminum frame , so thats what you have to work with.
But it will still get you down the road just fine..
and you can measure how wide the inside space between
the rear dropouts..
If there is 126mm (Like 5") between the dropouts .. that's all you got ..6 ...
or 7, which is just making space between the cogs narrower to get another one in the same frame.
Given : cannot spread an aluminum frame , so thats what you have to work with.
But it will still get you down the road just fine..
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-24-11 at 06:27 PM.
#5
Senior Member
kage65, Take a look in the C&V forum for more info about your bike, S/N will date it for example.
Brad
Brad
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is this thread for real? I believe it is a '86/87ish bike, the style of the 105, Biopace and the lack of cantilevered dropouts.
OH this is the same guy asking about the handlebars things? we should take the bike from him before he gets hurt
OH this is the same guy asking about the handlebars things? we should take the bike from him before he gets hurt
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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That's an 87-88 SR500- a solid bike and worth keeping. 12 speeds (6X2) and oce properly cabled and adjusted, gear changes should be smooth and flawless. That 1st gen 105 is very good stuff. Yes, you can put more gears on it in the back, but will need a modern wheel (130 can be squeezed into 126 aluminum without harm or much effort, no cold setting required, I've done it a bunch), an 8 or 9 speed cassette (SRAM or Shimano) and you can use the same DT shifters if you move the D-ring on the right one from SIS to friction.
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