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crank arms: chainstay clearance and overtightening

Old 04-11-11, 01:14 PM
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dignandag
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crank arms: chainstay clearance and overtightening

just installed cranks and BB...using 170 sugino 75s and 110.5 phil BB.

drive side arm/chainstay clearance: 4-5mm
non drive side arm/chainstay clearance: 2-3mm

i've read that as long arms don't hit, then i'm fine.

i don't care that it's not the same on both sides...just thinking the non-drive side is cutting it close. i just got back from my LBS and they said i'm fine, but just looking for additional opinions.

am i good or no?

also, i know NOW that a torque wrench is ideal for installing cranks arms...with that said, i used an allen wrench prior to knowing. i don't feel i have overtighten, but loosening and then retightening is not the best thing to do...right?
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Old 04-11-11, 01:38 PM
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southpawboston 
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3mm is close, but it should be fine. There's no torque being applied to the crank arm when it's in that position (3:00), so it should never be bending toward the chainstay.

Since you're using a phil BB, don't you have adjustable cups on both sides to allow you to play with the lateral alignment of the BB? You could get the cranks to be evenly spaced ~3-4 from the chainstays by just moving the BB 1mm to the left.
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Old 04-11-11, 01:41 PM
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had the same set up. you're fine.
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Old 04-11-11, 01:56 PM
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yeah, adjustable cups on the phil. just didn't want to keep messing with loosening/retightening the crank arms.

i can live with it's current state if there are no worries with it being that close on the non drive side.

as far as over tightening crank arms...is there a way to know? could overtightening have something to do with the short clearance? they're brand new cranks, so first time installed.

thanks for the input.
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Old 04-11-11, 02:32 PM
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Well, they should be properly torqued. Generally speaking, they go pretty tight. But I suppose it's possible to overtighten them, which would put stress on the aluminum around the taper, stretching out the square taper. I've never bought new cranks. Park Tool suggests 305-391 in-lb for Shimano BBs, so I would assume similar for phil. Maybe you could get more specific values from the phil website.

Also, since they're new, I would retorque them after a few weeks of breaking in. They might loosen a tiny bit initially.
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Old 04-11-11, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by southpawboston View Post
Since you're using a phil BB, don't you have adjustable cups on both sides to allow you to play with the lateral alignment of the BB? You could get the cranks to be evenly spaced ~3-4 from the chainstays by just moving the BB 1mm to the left.
Phil make a great BB but fooling with the centering of it can drive you nuts. you really need two tools
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Old 04-11-11, 02:53 PM
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ha...yeah, i just bought the one phil tool...two would have made it much easier.
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Old 04-11-11, 05:40 PM
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I have an old Tange adjustable cartridge BB-- it has non-fixed aluminum cups with lock rings on both sides, so the BB can be moved laterally ~2mm. No special tools needed... just one 3-prong spanning tool is all that's needed.
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