Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Adjusting brakes to ride on the hoods

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Adjusting brakes to ride on the hoods

Old 05-05-11, 05:14 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bristol, United Kingdom
Posts: 82

Bikes: Giant Peloton Lite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Adjusting brakes to ride on the hoods

I've recently bought an old 70s road bike that has brake levers that are only really operable in the drops. It also had those extension levers which mean you can use them on the top of the handle bars. The problem is that I don't like being on top of my bars because the bike doesn't handle well up there when I'm maneuvering through town. I can't really use the brakes when I'm on the hoods (there aren't actually any hoods at the moment). Can I unwrap my bar tape and adjust the position of the brakes, or do I need some different levers? Thanks in advance!
martyn3200 is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 05:31 AM
  #2  
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Posts: 6,007
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times in 10 Posts
yes you can adjust the position of the brakes.. i use a ruler and line up the end of the lever to be in line with the line of the rear of the drop as shown in this video https://bicycletutor.com/drop-handlebar-tape/
frantik is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 05:58 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bristol, United Kingdom
Posts: 82

Bikes: Giant Peloton Lite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi,
Thanks for the speedy reply. I did the ruler test and the bottom of my brake levers are in fact in lie with the bottom of my handle bars. There are 2 problems...firstly the extension brake lever makes it impractical to use the front levers when on the hoods, but also you have to reach a long way to get half-decent leverage on the brakes, but even then it is tricky to apply the brakes hard. So, i'm looking to remove the brake lever extension and to perhaps lower my brake levers? I'll try and add some pictures later today.
martyn3200 is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 06:00 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooklyn NY
Posts: 7,717

Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 459 Times in 361 Posts
OTOH, you could just replace the levers and calipers with something new that will really stop you. Tektro R200 levers aren't expensive and work very well. They can be operated from the hoods and are shaped properly. There's even a small hand version if that would fit better.
zacster is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 06:22 AM
  #5  
my hubs are dirty
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 148

Bikes: Nishiki Olympic, Bridgestone RB-2 (sold!), Bridgestone MB-5, Schwinn Le Tour, Handsome XOXO

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Something else to think about: For a long time I griped about how much pull on the levers was required to really stop my bike, but then I bought double-pivot brakes and now I can pretty much do a frontflip at will lol.
jollysnowman is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 06:24 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times in 222 Posts
Originally Posted by martyn3200
I've recently bought an old 70s road bike
A bike of that vintage probably has a much more uniform bend to the drop bar than what bikes today have. There are geometrical limits to what you'll be able to achieve no matter how you try to adjust them. Moving them further down for a better grip when you're fairly deep in drop is doable but that's about it. If you move them up they'll quickly end up at an angle, which isn't really helpful either.
dabac is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 06:51 AM
  #7  
Biking Viking.
 
goatalope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 357

Bikes: '01 Lemond Buenos Aires, '11 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, 70s Austro Daimler Inter 10, 80s Motobecane Mirage 10 Fixed Gear

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts
You can definitely move the brakes to a better position. But, honestly, those old 70s brakes always seem crummy to me. They're always flexy. And just so you know, a lot of people call the bar extensions "suicide brakes" because of their lack of stopping ability. So feel free to try moving things around, maybe tighten the cable to bring the brake pads closer to the rim, maybe try new brake pads....or for less than $100 bucks you could get all new stuff that should work much better. You could also go to a flatbar setup pretty cheap, which is nice if you're riding through traffic mostly.
goatalope is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 07:12 AM
  #8  
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Posts: 6,007
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by jollysnowman
Something else to think about: For a long time I griped about how much pull on the levers was required to really stop my bike, but then I bought double-pivot brakes and now I can pretty much do a frontflip at will lol.
i'm used to the old crappy style brakes but when i sell bikes with single pivot brakes people sometimes make a comment like the brakes are messed up.. i think they just arent used to old school brakes.

OP, adjust your brakes so the pads are very close to the rim.. they you don't have to pull them as far. thats about all you can do. also get used to using the brakes to "slow down" more than "stop" lol
frantik is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 07:45 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 297

Bikes: Old ones.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I bought a brand new set of tektro ergo levers for my 83 schwinn off ebay, like 23 bux shipped. They are awesome levers, comfortable, and useable from the drops or the hoods. I'd recommend them for any old bike that one isn't worried about keeping the old look. Plus you can run the cable under the bar tape and get rid of the big cable loops in the front.

As far as the suicide levers, with good pads and a clean wheel, I could do front flips if I hit em to hard from any position. But I always grabbed in the bend of the top lever, not the long flat piece. I suppose that would flex more and not give as strong a pull.
jbrow1 is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 07:56 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bristol, United Kingdom
Posts: 82

Bikes: Giant Peloton Lite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ii tried moving my brake pads closer to the rim but my wheel isn't exactly true, and the rim would touch the pads about 3 times per rotation! I'm not keeping this bike for very long as i'm getting a touring bike (which has the same curved levers which i'll replace with something like zacster's suggestion i think.) I would like to remove these 'suicide levers' though. Anybody know how? There are no obvious securing screws...
martyn3200 is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 08:10 AM
  #11  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
Can I unwrap my bar tape and adjust the position of the brakes,
I don't know about your skill set, but there is nothing preventing the job from being attempted.

sounds like you should true up the wheels first.,

the extension levers are screwed into the pivot pin,
if you cannot figure out that by simple mechanical savvy,
maybe it is a job best turned over to the Bike Shop.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 05-05-11, 08:26 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bristol, United Kingdom
Posts: 82

Bikes: Giant Peloton Lite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi fietsbob,
I've been told that my spoke nipples may well brake if I try to true the wheel, so I've just accepted that for the time being as i'm not going to have the bike much longer. But I am still keen to remove these suicide levers as I think it will detriment it's re-sale value if they're not removed. There appears to be a pivot pin going from the outside of the lever assembly to the inside and through the brake extension. I removed a plastic cover cap on the inside of the extension to find what looks like a washer at the end of this pivot pin. It rotates with the assistance of a spanner, but it doesn't screw off of the pivot bolt. Nor will it pull off. The only way I could envisage the lever extension coming off is by hack-sawing of on the inside of the washer. Could I hammer the pin through from the inside?
martyn3200 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
prisoner6
General Cycling Discussion
16
07-18-18 07:54 PM
thehammerdog
Fitting Your Bike
10
12-09-14 02:17 PM
5M177Y
Road Cycling
7
06-12-13 04:40 PM
byrd48
Bicycle Mechanics
4
05-27-13 07:57 AM
Ranger63
Bicycle Mechanics
9
08-15-11 07:23 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.