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Campy Daytona Brifters

Old 05-07-11, 07:20 AM
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Campy Daytona Brifters

I just recently bought a 2004 Lemond Poprad that came with Campagnolo Daytona components. I've always been a Suntour and Shimano guy and this is my first taste of Campy drivetrain bits.

What has me wondering is the brifters. They are what I think are called Ergo shifters, with the paddle behind the brake lever that upshifts and the thumb button that downshifts. Both right and left shifters seem to work okay, but there is a tremendous amount of "play" in the upshift levers. Of course I am comparing to Shimano, which work in a very linear fashion. These levers move inward, but also can be pulled back toward yourself. Feels strange. Not at all what I'm used to.

Is this action normal, or do these brifters need attention? Like I said, the things seem to shift okay, it is just different to me. It takes a long "throw" to change to bigger cogs in comparison to my Tiagra brifters. What I do like is the feature where you can jump about three cogs at a time by pausing a second on the upshift, that is handy.

Please help with comments. And if there is something worn out, can these brifters be retrofitted? Thanks!
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Old 05-07-11, 09:13 AM
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Normal.

Daytona is what I have on my Tommasini - later relabelled Centaur. Shifting up should be a recognizable clear but soft click. Downshifts with thumb buttons should feel like "snaps".

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Old 05-07-11, 05:23 PM
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Thanks for the response. It just seems unnatural for the levers to have so much play in so many directions. But as long as they shift, no worries.
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Old 05-07-11, 06:17 PM
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Adjusting the shift indexing will help it feel better to you. I prefer to have my shifts to larger cogs be quick without a big lever throw and don't mind if my shift to smaller cogs are a bit slower. If that describes you, turning the adjusting barrel about 1/4 turn or a bit more to the left may make it feel more "right".
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Old 05-07-11, 07:05 PM
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Too much play + soft shifting = time to think about changing the G springs.
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Old 05-07-11, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 55/Rad
Too much play + soft shifting = time to think about changing the G springs.
Is this something that I can do myself? Is there a tutorial available? I didn't search for g spring replacement, so sorry if there is already info here.

thanks!
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Old 05-07-11, 10:21 PM
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If you're mechanically inclined. Probably. The only 'tough' part of the repair is winding springs. Take pictures of spring orientation and a good memory helps. It's really simple. My fastest ergo overhaul with the shifter off the bars is 3:30.
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Old 05-07-11, 10:26 PM
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I searched the forum and found a number of threads on this. I will peruse them tomorrow. Thanks for all the input. I guess I can find a few hours to work on them. I appreciate the feedback.
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Old 05-09-11, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by TugaDude
I searched the forum and found a number of threads on this. I will peruse them tomorrow.
Check with Branford Bike in Seattle for explosion diagrams and parts identification. https://branfordbike.com/articles/cam...-2007-pg71.htm
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Old 05-09-11, 12:38 PM
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I found utube videos of disassembly and assembly of campy ergo levers to be helpful.
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Old 05-09-11, 07:42 PM
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Great suggestions guys, thanks!
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Old 05-09-11, 08:36 PM
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Getting each spring back in place can be frustrating the first time you try a reassembly. It probably took me 2-3 hours and a lot of aggravation. The next time was a lot easier. If you try it, lay the parts out in sequence, so you get the thin washers back in the correct locations.

The video makes it look easy. This should be very similar to your Daytona shifter.



This is a speeded up, grainy version of the video I used. The 2008 one doesn't show the blob of grease on the G-springs. I can't find the original version of this online.


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Old 05-09-11, 09:13 PM
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Wow, thanks for sharing those. A little intimidating, but maybe worth trying.
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Old 05-09-11, 09:29 PM
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I would also buy a G-spring carrier from Branford (not expensive). Branford may also recommend replacing the two other springs and this is probably wise given the age ofthe shifter.My R/H Chorus shifter carrier cracked at 6000 miles. Normally, G-springs and the carrier last longer, but I probably shift twice as frequently on our tandem versus a single.
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Old 05-10-11, 03:39 AM
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This seems to be what you're after: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEHGjpstM08
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Old 05-10-11, 06:10 AM
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In 5 years and 19,000 miles I've had some broken parts. I like to get to my best cadence, so I shift a lot. Maybe that causes more wear and tear than usual.

My LBS actually stocks a lot of these pieces, and the prices are cheap.

1. a broken G spring after 4 months. The shifting sortof worked, but was really sloppy. Replaced by the LBS under warranty.
2. a broken top spring. The shift lever didn't engage the ratchet for shifts to larger cogs. The lever had no resistance at all. (I got through a couple of rides by pressing in the top of the lever with my thumb while shifting with my fingers.) Since it was apart, I replaced the G springs too.
3. a cracked G-spring carrier. The shifting still worked, but was often slightly off center, so there was chain noise.

The other parts have held up. The notched piece that the G-springs click into still looks like new. The thumb shfter's pointed end that pushes the gear is getting worn, but still is OK.

The G-springs wear down before they break. When worn, the shifting isn't as crisp and clicky sounding, but it still works OK. It would need to be pretty bad before I would tear down and replace the G-springs just for wear. But, I do like it when they are replaced.

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Old 05-10-11, 06:23 AM
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Off topic, I've had sloppy shifting lately. I got a new 2010 model Veloce rear derailleur on sale last week. What a difference! Even with careful cleaning and oiling, the old derailleur has worn down enough to have play in the joints.

With a new derailleur, the shifting is great again.
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