Is the Truvativ Isoflow Triple on my roadie actually an MTB Triple?
#1
The Drive Side is Within
Thread Starter
Is the Truvativ Isoflow Triple on my roadie actually an MTB Triple?
I'm trying to figure out why I'm having so much trouble trimming the FD on my Jamis.
Sora Triple Brifter, Sora FD (not sure if it is a double or triple, it does not have that longer plate some triples do.) Trvativ Isoflow Crankset.
Bike was bought used. Heavily updated and acessorized, but obviously rarely ridden.
Is there a way for me to differentiate between the Isoflow MTB and Road triples? If it IS an MTB triple, could that be causing my troubles???
Is this the road one?

Is this the MTB?

Mine seems to have the Road version--
Sora Triple Brifter, Sora FD (not sure if it is a double or triple, it does not have that longer plate some triples do.) Trvativ Isoflow Crankset.
Bike was bought used. Heavily updated and acessorized, but obviously rarely ridden.
Is there a way for me to differentiate between the Isoflow MTB and Road triples? If it IS an MTB triple, could that be causing my troubles???
Is this the road one?

Is this the MTB?

Mine seems to have the Road version--

__________________
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
#2
Senior Member
with most bikes it not so much a problems with derailers and chainrings but with shifters . MTB and Road shifters have a different pull to trim the derailer's throw. it a matter of how much cable is pull with each shift.
#4
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Top picture is the "trekking/touring" version, with prolly a 48/36/26 ringset on 104/64 4-bolt pattern.. The second is regular compact mountain crankset version, with prolly 44/32/22 ringset on the same 104/64 4-bolt. The thing on the Jamis is the road version, with the full-size triple, prolly 52/42/30 rings on a 130/74 5-bolt. The u factor is likely different on these cranks, which could cause problems depending on the shifters and FD used with the bike. But, if the jamis pictured is your bike, it's all road stuff, and you prolly just need to tune it s'more to get the shifter squared away.
Sorry; I'm looking back on my post, and i think i used the "word" 'prolly' about 4 times.
-rob
Sorry; I'm looking back on my post, and i think i used the "word" 'prolly' about 4 times.
-rob
#5
Senior Member
Sounds like your FD is a double. That will cause problems.
#7
The Drive Side is Within
Thread Starter




No tripod handy, sorry.
So if it is a double, the next question is whether I can switch out the crankset and make the brifter work with a double or whether I will need to do both.
I'd be happy to throw the triple on a Trek 620 Canti frame I'm building, but I don't know whether I want to invest in both a crankset AND a new shifter.
Top picture is the "trekking/touring" version, with prolly a 48/36/26 ringset on 104/64 4-bolt pattern.. The second is regular compact mountain crankset version, with prolly 44/32/22 ringset on the same 104/64 4-bolt. The thing on the Jamis is the road version, with the full-size triple, prolly 52/42/30 rings on a 130/74 5-bolt. The u factor is likely different on these cranks, which could cause problems depending on the shifters and FD used with the bike. But, if the jamis pictured is your bike, it's all road stuff, and you prolly just need to tune it s'more to get the shifter squared away.
Sorry; I'm looking back on my post, and i think i used the "word" 'prolly' about 4 times.
-rob
Sorry; I'm looking back on my post, and i think i used the "word" 'prolly' about 4 times.
-rob
__________________
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
Last edited by Standalone; 06-12-11 at 06:52 PM.
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