rising handle bars giant defy 3
#1
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rising handle bars giant defy 3
hi only new to road bikes getting a sore Neck is this caused from the Stem too low and crane neck to see and will Raising the stem/bars and if so was wondering if any one can tell me how to rise these handle bars on giant defy 3 2011 or are they at there maximum
tried loosening hex screw on top up about 10mm and tapping with hammer but nothing happening do i have to tap harder ?
thanks
tried loosening hex screw on top up about 10mm and tapping with hammer but nothing happening do i have to tap harder ?
thanks
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That's a threadless AKA aheadset stem. They're a completely different animal as compared to the quill stems you're obviously used to. To raise the bars on that bike you'll either have to get a new "riser" stem, or a steerer tube extender.
Drop bars aren't for every one, and most riders will need some conditioning before being able to use them.
Drop bars aren't for every one, and most riders will need some conditioning before being able to use them.
#4
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First, go to the Parks Tool web site (or any other bike mechanic type site) and read up on threadless stems to see what you are dealing with. Most threadless stems can be flipped to get more or less rise. From the picture you posted, it is tough to tell if your stem is angled down or up relative to the steerer tube. If it is angled down, flipping the stem over will raise the bars a bit. You can get stems with a steeper angle or you can get extensions for threadless stems that will allow you to raise it further.
You will most likely find that, with continued riding and conditioning, the stiff/sore neck will start to go away. You are using muscles in your neck to support your head that aren't typically used that way for extended periods of time and it will take a while to build them up.
You will most likely find that, with continued riding and conditioning, the stiff/sore neck will start to go away. You are using muscles in your neck to support your head that aren't typically used that way for extended periods of time and it will take a while to build them up.
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thanks CACycling, they are angled up i think i'll stick with the hight they are and just get a bit more mileage on the bike and see if the sore neck is sorted out that way ,thanks
#6
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Stem risers for threadless stems clamp onto the steerer, in place of the stem
the riser has the headset preload bolt extended, in it,
and then the stem clamps around the upper section of the stem riser..
You can also purchase an angle adjustable stem, in several brands.
Ritchey,Dimension, Etc.. OBP via your LBS..
and there are a couple telescopic stem risers, a quick lever release,
and it goes up or down by about 6 "
the riser has the headset preload bolt extended, in it,
and then the stem clamps around the upper section of the stem riser..
You can also purchase an angle adjustable stem, in several brands.
Ritchey,Dimension, Etc.. OBP via your LBS..
and there are a couple telescopic stem risers, a quick lever release,
and it goes up or down by about 6 "
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-13-11 at 03:31 PM.
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I don't like threadless headsets for the reason you've discovered- you have to buy new parts if you want to change the handlebar height. I would buy a new threadless stem that sets the top of the bars around level with the saddle, or wherever you'd set a flat handlebar. This won't give you as much of an 'aero' position as a racing-style setup, but should be more comfortable for everyday riding, and make the drops more useful.
#8
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Best way is if you can have the fork supplied with an uncut steerer,
then the stack of spacers and the can be shuffled under or above stem .
and determine the best height and reach 1st, then get out the cutter.
factories ship lots of forks pre cut via a formula for the size of frame ..
when partially pre assembling and packing bikes, for shipping.
so the post-sales or point of sale changes get made ..
then the stack of spacers and the can be shuffled under or above stem .
and determine the best height and reach 1st, then get out the cutter.
factories ship lots of forks pre cut via a formula for the size of frame ..
when partially pre assembling and packing bikes, for shipping.
so the post-sales or point of sale changes get made ..
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It is also possible that the stem is too long, rather than too low. A shorter stem is a 5-minute swap job. A riser stem can get you into the same position but it looks worse and you might need longer cable housing.