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A small mtn bike handlebar?

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A small mtn bike handlebar?

Old 06-15-11, 03:58 AM
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A small mtn bike handlebar?

I have a downtube 8h that I'm looking into making some alterations into. First step is the handlebar. It is too wide. I'm looking into maybe a bullhorn handlebar, or a small mountainbike handlebar, that will also have to fit the 22mm diameter so I can move the shifter over (does Sturmey archer make a click shifter? the bike has a grip shift)
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Old 06-15-11, 04:27 AM
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MTB bars are sized by the stem clamp diameter (31.8 or 25.4), not the component size, these (MTB parts) are all the same size.

For Sturmy Archer, have you checked their website?, what about Shimano?

For width, for the last 5 years or so, handle bars have been getting wider and wider so you may need to look for some older bars, or be prepared to cut some down to the size you want/
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Old 06-15-11, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jimc101
MTB bars are sized by the stem clamp diameter (31.8 or 25.4), not the component size, these (MTB parts) are all the same size.

For Sturmy Archer, have you checked their website?, what about Shimano?

For width, for the last 5 years or so, handle bars have been getting wider and wider so you may need to look for some older bars, or be prepared to cut some down to the size you want/
The issue is the grip size. For instance, most modern road bike drop bars are like 23.5 mm in diameter, while most mtn bike bars are 22.2mm in diameter. The SA shifter is sized for a 22.2mm handlebar.
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Old 06-15-11, 07:44 AM
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Old 06-15-11, 08:23 AM
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22mm diameter
what are you measuring?

FWIW:French version of a threaded fork used a 22mm quill, for the stem .

Contrarian, nationally, by their nature?

Perhaps it was because they have had a long history of battles
with the English Kings?

they finally went like the rest of the world with Inch Based standards,
7/8 of an inch ... 22.2 mm

I expect some rounding down...

Last edited by fietsbob; 06-15-11 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 06-15-11, 09:22 AM
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Sounds like you're set for narrow MTB bar. If your controls are MTB diameter then pretty much any MTB bar that also has your stem clamp diameter will work.

How narrow are you thinking of going? Risers are more difficult to cut super narrow as a general rule as they often have less length of the bar sized to grip diameter. 31.8 clamp bars also generally have less grip diameter compared to 25.4 clamp bars.

25.4 clamp bullhorns with 22mm grip area are available on eBay - "Scott AT-2". You can't get Gripshifts onto them, though. You can mimic bullhorns with a flat bar + barends, though.

Also I'm not sure what clamp diameter your bike has. You'll have to determine that before bar shopping. Hard to tell from tiny pics on site, but that stem doesn't look like your average stem. Which is kinda a bummer because if you wanted risers for extra height then you might not be able to use a different stem to reach the same goal.

Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 06-15-11 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 06-15-11, 09:32 AM
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I had the same problem, the stock bars on my Franenbike were way too long (annoyed the crap out of me)

I solved the problem with a 5 dollar hacksaw (or could use a pipe cutter... )
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Old 06-15-11, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mcgyver74
I solved the problem with a 5 dollar hacksaw
+1 I've done this on several flat bars. Just make sure you leave enough room on each end for brakes/shifters, grips, bar-ends, etc.

There was a thread a little while back about how pipe cutters don't actually cut tubes, but displaces the metal, which doesn't make a clean cut.

Go with the hacksaw. I use a zip-tie as a cheap guide (zip-tie the inner part of the bar, the part you'll keep).
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Old 06-15-11, 01:26 PM
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Ah Did not realize a pipe cutter distorts like that.


What I did was tape the bar ends on the inside of where I wanted to cut (the part I wanted to keep) then Used a towel and a bench vise to hold it straight.... Took me less then a min to hack off the ends... Light file after cutting and they have been great....

Zip Tie method does sound easier tho
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Old 06-15-11, 01:54 PM
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If you're handy you could always fabricate one out of 6061-T6

Assuming 25.4mm clamp diameter:

7/8" OD for the bar, I imagine you can go pretty low on wall thickness.
1" OD, .780" ID for a sleeve to make the clamp area. You'll need to bore out the sleeve .005" to fit over the bar.

Fabricating one in this manner would allow for the narrowest possible bar. Make the sleeve just as wide as the stem clamp and you can jam your controls right up against the sleeve. Assuming 7" of controls/grips on either side and 2" stem clamp you could make a 16" (~40cm) bar!
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Old 06-15-11, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
If you're handy you could always fabricate one out of 6061-T6

Assuming 25.4mm clamp diameter:

7/8" OD for the bar, I imagine you can go pretty low on wall thickness.
1" OD, .780" ID for a sleeve to make the clamp area. You'll need to bore out the sleeve .005" to fit over the bar.

Fabricating one in this manner would allow for the narrowest possible bar. Make the sleeve just as wide as the stem clamp and you can jam your controls right up against the sleeve. Assuming 7" of controls/grips on either side and 2" stem clamp you could make a 16" (~40cm) bar!
I`ve seen some flatbars cut down to really miniscule sizes on some fixies downtown. The only thing mounted on the bars are grips - no brakes or shifters.

The narrowest I`ve been able to go myself is 19.5 inches. Thats with integrated shifter/brake assemblies on two bikes. One with cantis and the other with hydraulic disk brakes. Can`t go any narrower because the hydraulic cylinders/brake cables start to get so close the cables overlap.
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