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Regular maintenace on a Road Bike - What should I be doing?

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Regular maintenace on a Road Bike - What should I be doing?

Old 06-18-11, 11:00 AM
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Regular maintenace on a Road Bike - What should I be doing?

Iíve got over 5K on my 2007 Specialized Roubaix. I rode it through much of the New England winter. I should probably oil, lube, and adjust some things. What things?

Feel free to answer with a link. I tried BF advanced search but it wouldn't accept the word "maintenance".

1. Brakes Ė the rear got ultra stiff so I disassembled both, cleaned, and put a dab of lube on the pivot shafts. Anything else?
2. Derailleurs Ė I periodically spray the gaps on the sides of the moving parts with Tri-Flow. OK?
3. Headset bearings? Wait until it doesnít feel smooth? Then use Polylube from Park Tool?
4. Front wheel hub? Disassemble, clean the ball bearings (?), and lube? How often? Special tools?
5. Rear wheel hub? Ditto? Anything special with the freehub? Do I need special tools?
6. Spokes Ė Should I spray the nipples or anything?
7. Bottom bracket bearings Ė I think the hubs by Specialized are sealed (I donít remember seeing any ball bearings or lubrication nipples when I replaced the crank.)
8. Shifters Ė Is there anything I should do?
9. Cables Ė I think the Shimano Dura-Ace cables I am using to replace the originals are pre-lubed. But should I do anything?
10. Chain Ė Iíve read lots of threads about this. They convinced me to try Chain-L (I was using Mobil 1). Iíve also started using a Park Tool chain cleaner. Itís too early to tell how well this is working.
11. Pedals Ė Do they need to be disassembled and lubed? How often, or is it when they start to squeak?
12. Anything else?

I feel like my bike is slowly enslaving me!

Thanks
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Old 06-18-11, 12:49 PM
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A lot of the things like wheel hub and head set servicing can be done annually or even every two years on lower mileage bikes. From your sig line mileage I'd say annually would be best. But if your wheels use cartridge bearings then your "servicing" will amount to cleaning off any dust and checking to see if the bearings roll freely with no grittiness. When they eventually feel gritty or bind at all or feel like they've developed more play you simply replace them.

Cable lubing is a hot topic. I'm in the camp that says NO lube is the best lube. The low friction liner in the housings and the smooth outside condition of modern die drawn cables allows for low friction and smooth operation. Adding oil or grease will act like a viscous drag and just holds grit and dust more easily.

If you're adding some oil or other lube to the derailleur pivots be sure that it's also being cleaned away periodically when you wash the bike to blow away any grit attaching itself to the oil. Oil and grit makes for a really good grinding paste.

Leave the spoke nipples alone. Obsessing on them sounds slightly erotic...

The shifters I've had over the years seem to be well enough shielded from the elements that they don't need anything but some cleaning and light lubrication at the same frequency as the cables are swapped out. Or if they begin to feel stiff after some years of use or many miles then deal with them as needed. But there's not much to be gained on most of them with anything more frequent than annually. And likely semi annually would be just fine unless they show some signs of distress.
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Old 06-18-11, 04:18 PM
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https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
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Old 06-18-11, 08:18 PM
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Spin the pedals. If they feel stiff, rebuild them.
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Old 06-19-11, 03:31 AM
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I often remove the seat post, look inside for rust and use a light lube inside the seat tube. But I ride steel frames. Not necessary on aluminum or carbon fibre. I also replace handlebar tape at regular intervals and look for any brake lever/shifter clamp corrosion.

You aren't as heavy as I am, but I've started checking forks, tube joints, pedal axles, chainstays, and crown races for cracks. Just can't be too sure of your equipment!
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Old 06-19-11, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by hobkirk
9. Cables – I think the Shimano Dura-Ace cables I am using to replace the originals are pre-lubed. But should I do anything?
An interesting point. Shimano cable housings do come pre-lubed but they have a designated inlet and outlet. The end of the cable housing with the printing is the inlet and should be positioned nearest the shifter. Any shortening that you do should be done on the outlet end without the printing.
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Old 06-19-11, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
An interesting point. Shimano cable housings do come pre-lubed but they have a designated inlet and outlet. The end of the cable housing with the printing is the inlet and should be positioned nearest the shifter. Any shortening that you do should be done on the outlet end without the printing.
Another case where my jaw drops! The housings are directional? I've already installed the shifter housings - I'd better check. Thanks.
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