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wrong wheel lacing

Old 06-22-11, 02:35 AM
  #1  
menelaos
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wrong wheel lacing

Hi!
I'm trying to get my first wheel built. I have a 26'' rim and a 36x3 cross pattern. But I've made a mistake! The tube valve hole ended up being at the wrong place! It's not in the tightest spot, but between two trailing spokes. Should I relace everything or it doesn't really matter?
Thanks
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Old 06-22-11, 03:36 AM
  #2  
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Structurally it doesn't matter. When you're rolling no one will see it. When you're parked only a handful of other riders will see it.

But, depending on your personality, it might nag at you everytime you get in the saddle, or you might be perfectly capable of ignoring it. Only you can be the judge of that.

If you intend to sell the wheel/bike on, someone might use it as a negotiation point against you.
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Old 06-22-11, 03:40 AM
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menelaos
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Thanks for the answer.
Ok, but will I be able to inflate the tires or will the spokes be in the way?
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Old 06-22-11, 05:11 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by menelaos View Post
Thanks for the answer.
Ok, but will I be able to inflate the tires or will the spokes be in the way?
Why don't you try it and see .... How should we be able to tell with no pictures and not knowing what pump you have.?
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Old 06-22-11, 05:19 AM
  #5  
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If it were me, I'd re-lace it. It's up to you though, and how much pride you take in your work.
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Old 06-22-11, 05:27 AM
  #6  
jimc101
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Take it as a learning experience, no need to re-lace, one of my first wheels was built like this, and is still running fine, no one notices unless I show them
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Old 06-22-11, 04:06 PM
  #7  
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I was building a front wheel last night with a cheap Deore front hub 32H 3cross and had the label facing backward when the rim label was viewed properly standing from the gear side of the bike. Could have flipped it over, but it was only a single side of spokes. So I unlaced, and flipped the rim around, and even aligned the 2 labels on the hub so one "Deore" faces the valve hole and the opposite side faces the rim label and pin joint. The trick was to select the 3 holes on each side the the midpoint on the hub flange looking toward the axle where the label is printed. The outer one on the right will become the trailing spoke, and then count 5 holes over and that's the leading one that will cross that spoke in a 3X pattern.

When I mount the tire, the tire sidewall label is opposite of the valve and facing the drive train side too. This way, when the bike is in the stand, usually the drive train is facing outward so we can work on it, and a single glance from one side tells me the tire make, model, size and pressure ratings. And if it's a bike I serviced before and it has a flat tire, I can pull the tube, test it in the tank, and then check just two locations inside the tire for the offending sharp object that may have penetrated and caused the flat.

Is that too anal? Maybe. LOL!

Last edited by gyozadude; 06-22-11 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 06-22-11, 04:20 PM
  #8  
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I have started the 1st spoke in the wrong hole,
and had the pattern come out wrong,
and taken it apart, and re laced it again, before .. myself..
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Old 06-22-11, 04:37 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by rogerstg View Post
If it were me, I'd re-lace it. It's up to you though, and how much pride you take in your work.
+1
There is a special feeling when riding out on wheels that you've built for yourself.
And lacing is the easiest part of building a wheel. I would start over. Yes, you can air up the wheel as is. But the spokes will be in the way and they will remind you every time.
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Old 06-22-11, 04:50 PM
  #10  
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It doesn't matter, and won't have any effect on anything. Ity's a long way to the cross so the spokes won't be in your way. The only thing is if you use an old fashioned PV pump where you have to bang it off the valve, it might bump at the cross when it drops.

Having the valve hole at the gap is just a nicety, and would count if you were a pro wheelbuilder (looks like you not attentive to details), but it doesn't matter if you don't care.

If you haven't started to tighten it you might prefer to rebuild, but if you've started to pull it up and align ignore it and finish the job.
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Old 06-22-11, 04:51 PM
  #11  
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It's really a sign of an amateur build... I couldn't live with it.

On top of the rim label and valve hole/parallel spoke requirements, I insist that my valve hole be directly above the hub label - so the valve points at the name on the hub. It's not anal, it's professionalism and attention to detail.

If you relace it this time, you'll never get it wrong again.
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Old 06-22-11, 05:08 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by menelaos View Post
Thanks for the answer.
Ok, but will I be able to inflate the tires or will the spokes be in the way?
You won't have any problems with it - the issue is strictly aesthetic. The rear wheel on my tandem was built with the spokes on either side of the valve canted inward and it's still not a problem getting the tires pumped up - and that's a wheel with 48 spokes so the clearance is much smaller.

Maybe I'll relace it someday, but the wheel has held up ok for the last 35 years which is much better than it's correctly laced predecessors did so I'm inclined to leave it alone.
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Old 06-22-11, 05:20 PM
  #13  
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You should relace it just for the practice. Besides, the actual lacing part of building a wheel doesn't take very lone anyways.
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Old 06-22-11, 06:03 PM
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FBinNY
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Regardless of whether you decide to relace it or not, take a minute to figure out where you went wrong.

While the position of the valve doesn't matter, why you went wrong might.

Sight across the hub at two nearly parallel spokes from the opposite flanges. One will be half a spoke hole to the right or left of the other. Make sure that is ends one hole on the same side on the rim. ie, the lower clockwise spoke is to the right in the hub, and should end 1 hole to the right in the rim.

I point this out because that's a common problem with 1st builds, and is very material the the structure of the wheel.
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Old 06-22-11, 08:39 PM
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Sounds like you spun the hub the wrong way when you started the 3rd set of spokes. You sould only have to remove the last two groups of spokes, spin the hub the other direction, and reinstall them. Still a pain, but better then starting all over again.
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Old 06-22-11, 09:04 PM
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Re-do! If I can't read the hub label through the valve hole I can't sleep at night... Tire labels have to be on the drive side by the valve as well...


Maybe it's just me....
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Old 06-22-11, 09:33 PM
  #17  
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If the wheel works,then leave it alone.
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Old 06-22-11, 09:34 PM
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Tie the spokes together at the crossings and remove the nipples. Rotate the rim to where it needs to be and replace the nipples. Don't ask how I know this!
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Old 06-22-11, 10:19 PM
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If there isn't enough time to do it right the first time, when will there be enough time to do it right later? Fix it now, and you will most likely not do it again.
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Old 06-22-11, 10:41 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BoozyMcliverRot View Post
If the wheel works,then leave it alone.

+1. It won't hurt anything.
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