removing crank arms
#1
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removing crank arms
So my i borrowed my freinds crank puller witch pulls his cranks off his bb fine,
But it wont work for my BB
His BB has a threaded end so he can lock his crank arm with a nut,
Mine is the oppisite i can lock my crank arm on with a bolt,
So how do i remove my crank arm, His puller doesnt thread onto the BB it does reach.
one of these pullers
But it wont work for my BB
His BB has a threaded end so he can lock his crank arm with a nut,
Mine is the oppisite i can lock my crank arm on with a bolt,
So how do i remove my crank arm, His puller doesnt thread onto the BB it does reach.
one of these pullers
#2
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I can't see the problem. The puller threads into the crank, then push against the BB spindle. All pullers I've tried have had enough reach to ge able to deal with both nutted and bolted BB spindles. But I guess it's possible that yours is an oddball.
What you do then is to find something to extend the length of the plunger with. You want something that's wide enough so that it can't be pushed into the threads of the BB spindle. I'd probably try to find some round stock. A sturdy bolt and some quality time with a hacksaw should do the trick.
Make sure that the puller is firmly engaged with the crank before turning the plunger, to avoid stripping the threads in the crank.
What you do then is to find something to extend the length of the plunger with. You want something that's wide enough so that it can't be pushed into the threads of the BB spindle. I'd probably try to find some round stock. A sturdy bolt and some quality time with a hacksaw should do the trick.
Make sure that the puller is firmly engaged with the crank before turning the plunger, to avoid stripping the threads in the crank.
#3
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Most cranks use the same 22.0 x 1.0 thread for the extractor, but Solida, being French, may be an oddball. Unfortunately, my old 4th Edition Sutherland's doesn't mention it specifically.
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I will echo JohnD's comments above about the threading. I recall the shop crank pullers came in two pieces. It had a center push rod that was threaded with a 15 or 17 mm head. The barreled body was threaded on two ends. One end was for most cranks of the ISO/JIS variety. The other end was for odd-balls. We'd unscrew the center push rod out all the way, and flip the outer barrel to find the right threading, and I believe we had several tools with different sizes.
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