How do you reduce the slack on the chain of a cruiser bike w/ a coaster brake?
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How do you reduce the slack on the chain of a cruiser bike w/ a coaster brake?
How can you take some slack out of the chain on an Electra cruiser?
My brother and law told me that the chain on his cruiser bike jumped when he hit a small bump (he lives far away from me in another state) ask me how to take the slack out of the chain?
I have a road bike and a fixed gear and that's easy to fix as we all know-loosen the skewer/lug nuts and pull the rear wheel back. The next step would be removing a link or using a chain tensioner..
But aren't bikes wit coaster bikes different? Any help please!
My brother and law told me that the chain on his cruiser bike jumped when he hit a small bump (he lives far away from me in another state) ask me how to take the slack out of the chain?
I have a road bike and a fixed gear and that's easy to fix as we all know-loosen the skewer/lug nuts and pull the rear wheel back. The next step would be removing a link or using a chain tensioner..
But aren't bikes wit coaster bikes different? Any help please!
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You're on the right track. Loosen the axle nuts, and also loosen the bolt that attaches the coaster-brake arm to the left chainstay. Slide the wheel back and tighten, making sure to remember the coaster-brake arm bolt.
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Tighten the drive side first, then make sure the wheel is centered between the chain-stays and tighten the non-drive side and the brake arm.
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IMO the trick with such bikes is to do one side at a time, not worrying about centering until the chain tension's right. You just hold the rim against the chainstay as you tighten the nut to prevent it budging as it tightens. Best to do with the bike upside down.
You might have to walk the hub a few steps, tightening more lightly, as the angle of the wheel will affect chain tension. It's kinda worth the hassle because if you don't have one side at least fairly tight, you risk turning the spindle and maybe moving a cone when you tighten a nut.
Before doing this it's a good idea to ascertain whether the cones are too loose or tight by looking for play or stiffness in the hub; if you don't have a cone spanner and the cones are loose you can often just tighten the left one via the locknut while the other side is tight (not a real good move on the right side - because of the right-hand thread you want to be sure that cone's hard up against the locknut and this method doesn't guarantee it)... if the cones are too tight (which can be hard to diagnose, you need to pay close attention), you need a cone spanner.
You might have to walk the hub a few steps, tightening more lightly, as the angle of the wheel will affect chain tension. It's kinda worth the hassle because if you don't have one side at least fairly tight, you risk turning the spindle and maybe moving a cone when you tighten a nut.
Before doing this it's a good idea to ascertain whether the cones are too loose or tight by looking for play or stiffness in the hub; if you don't have a cone spanner and the cones are loose you can often just tighten the left one via the locknut while the other side is tight (not a real good move on the right side - because of the right-hand thread you want to be sure that cone's hard up against the locknut and this method doesn't guarantee it)... if the cones are too tight (which can be hard to diagnose, you need to pay close attention), you need a cone spanner.
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