Which crank remover?
 

I want to order a new triple crank set for my Univega Sporttour, and don't know which crank remover I should buy - this one: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Crank-Set-Remover/13012558 or this one: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Crank-Set-...dingMethod=rr?
Will either one work, or neither?

I'm not familiar with those, but there's no way I'd buy one of those tools from walmart.. Go to a local shop and ask them which one you need. You'll get the right tool for about $12-15 and it won't break the first time you use it.

We'll need a little more information. And the answer will steer you to the right remover. Do you have a model number of the crank or picture of the bottom bracket spindle end?

Now assuming you have either a) square taper or b) ISIS or Ocatalink splined interface, this tool works on both: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...nk+Puller.aspx This tool takes the place of both of the ones you show in your post.

Can't see a number anyplace, so I removed the cover plate and took a picture of both sides (not knowing what the "spindle end" is!). No square end in sight, so I would assume it is one of the other two thingies - Isis or Octalink?
Although the nut doesn't look like anything "octa" either, but rather like a plain six-sided nut.
Is the tool expected to fit into that narrow space around the nut?
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=209410 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=209411

It's a square taper crank on a nutted bottom bracket spindle. You'll be able to see the square taper interface once you remove the nut. The body of the crank puller gets threaded fully into the crank arm threads, and then the puller's inner driver pushes against the spindle while pulling the crank arm off.

Replacing the crank with a triple will probably require replacing your bottom bracket (unless both cranks have the same type of interface and require the same length spindle). Have you planned on that? It will take more specialized tools. Your square taper bottom bracket requires different tools than the common cartridge square taper bottom brackets of recent years. So if you do end up replacing your bottom bracket with something more modern, then that's probably going to take yet another tool. If you're a DIY guy, then it's more reason to buy tools. Otherwise, you might just let your local shop do the installation. Just throwing this out in case you weren't aware how changing one component can result in changing three components and buying six new tools.

WALMART sells tools like that? Who knew?

I've been buying freewheels and cassettes recently from Walmart.com. They have some attractive pricing, as long as you get something with no shipping (either pick up at the store, or free to your home). Some of their stuff is sold by a third party, where you will get socked with shipping charges.

You have to remove the nut first, or you will just strip out the threads, and then be in a real bind (crankset will still be on the bike, with no easy way to remove it).

Oh jeez!
I remember when as a teenager I bought myself a triple front disk I had my eyes on for weeks in a shop window, took it home, and simply screwed it on the crank I had on my touring bike. 5 nuts, all done, and my 10-speed was a 15-speed.
What has happened to uniform standards?

Good thing I haven't put in the order yet. This is putting me off quite a bit, and I may just stay with my double crank and replace the freewheel only. But that won't give me the gear range I was after. My current front is 42-52, and my rear is 16-29. Not good enough for my old body to take on steep hills!