removing cranks from bb without a spindle present?
 

As the title states, I've got a set of cranks mounted on a bottom bracket without a spindle running through the middle. I got this bike as a gift, and some idiot before me decided the best way to try and steal the cranks was to bang out the spindle. Since I have nothing to press against with the crank arm remover tool, I'm at a loss as to how I'm going to get these off without pulling out the angle grinder.

I've already tried chiseling with a screwdriver (now broken), a thicker screw driver, and an actual chisel. I've also tried just banging on the back of the crank arms. Any help would be appreciated - I need to get these cranks off this columbus frame :(.

WOW! Makes no sense to me. Without a spindle square taper cranks won't be on the bike anymore. Same with Isis and Octalink. Ummm, got pics?

http://i.imgur.com/OGsxh.jpg

It's not one of those new cranks with the allen bolt on the oustide, a la BMX. Let me know if you've got a better grasp of the situation.

crap, after looking at the picture i just posted, i realized it's an octalink bottom bracket. I'm blind/tired/an idiot. I was so determined to remove it, I was ignoring the obvious signs in the crank arm.

OH, Ok it's still got a spindle, it's just hollow. They make little dealies that go in the hole specifically for this job, If you've a good LBS nearby they should have them for not much money.

But if you're careful you can just put a dime in there to cover the hole, then screw in your crank removal tool.
You have to make sure the dime stays centered so it doesn't impede the crank. Best done with the bike laying on its side while you're threading your remover in.

Lester,

Funny you should say the trick about the dime. I actually had a dime on the floor next to my crank removal tool, and I was curious if it would work xD. I might give it a go. Thanks for the help!

to anyone else tempted to try the dime octalink trick: it does not work. I now have a very curious shaped button with eisenhower's face on it.

Just put in a setscrew of the right threads and then push against it. http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/p...N-gj4wbz&Nty=0

The "setscrew" will have to be threaded M14x1.0. Not real common.

To the OP: Shimano's "mushroom" tool (TL-FC15) came with every aftermarket 105 Octaling crank set so any LBS should have a surplus of them. BTW, the rim OD of this tool is 0.650" so if you can find a washer that size it should work too. Actually a dime (OD=0.700") is a bit too big.

Lay the bike on it's side and drop in a properly sized (for a kind of lose fit) large steel ball bearing for the puller to act on.
A small socket from a socket set will also work.

keep it. it may be worth something... but i think you're wrong about its provenance. they were handed out in the '50's during his presidential campaign and are supposed to be worn on the lapel.:)

If you still have the retaining hardware consisting of a bolt and a cap, put them in all the way but not tight. Then back the bolt out against the cap...................the bolt acts as a jackscrew.......it is threaded into the spindle, the cap is threaded into the crank, essentially the bolt being backed out against the cap pushes the crankarm out

That said I have had the cap get pushed out of a jammed crankarm.................so be careful

lol huey - i can't tell if you're being willfully ignorant, or just silly.

ira and avmech - both ideas are sound, but "this should work in theory/it's worked once" is generally how i end up breaking things by accident :(. Apparently I am the king of leverage/bad luck.

hill, thank you for mentioning the tool delivered with the 105 cranks. i might have to make a stop at my roadie lbs to see if they've got any kicking around. i'll take pictures of the frame later (sans crank and bb) if anyone wants to guess the type of schwinn.

take your pick. i've been justifiably described as both...

and worse...

Prelude?

it is not a "should work in theory or worked once", as I have done it many times, only had one that the crankarm was well stuck on and stripped the threads on the crankarm (lots of beachside riding and previous owner had no grease on the spindle)

What avmech is describing is the autoextractor bolt/cap arrangement provided on Ultegra and Dura Ace Octalink cranks. And, yes, it works well. They were not provided on 105 and below so you need the TL-FC15 tool or a suitable substitute.