Rear hub too loose. what gives?
07-11-11, 01:01 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 349
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
Rear hub too loose. what gives?
I noticed my rear wheel was a a little loose with side-to-side wobble. I figured the cones were either too loose or worn, but when I tightened them up enough to eliminate the wobble, the rear wheel didn't spin freely.
I dismantled the wheel, and the cones didn't look that worn, no pitting, and the axle wasn't bent.
Maybe I haven't been around long enough, but this was the first hub I've ever dismantled that didn't have matching cones. They're different on each side. See Photo
I don't know who made the hub but it's mated to an Araya rim on a Miyata Hybrid bike from the mid 1990's.
Any suggestions?
Click on the thumbnail photo for a larger hi-resolution image.
I dismantled the wheel, and the cones didn't look that worn, no pitting, and the axle wasn't bent.
Maybe I haven't been around long enough, but this was the first hub I've ever dismantled that didn't have matching cones. They're different on each side. See Photo
I don't know who made the hub but it's mated to an Araya rim on a Miyata Hybrid bike from the mid 1990's.
Any suggestions?
Click on the thumbnail photo for a larger hi-resolution image.
07-11-11, 01:05 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
As externally geared hubs aren't symmetrical it's not unusual for the cones to be assymetric too, so that by itself doesn't say anything.
You are aware that you can't just crank down on the cones, right?
You set the spacing, then lock it down with the locknuts.
You are aware that you can't just crank down on the cones, right?
You set the spacing, then lock it down with the locknuts.
07-11-11, 01:07 PM
#3
Banned
there is a Knack of getting the rear/ and front hub adjustment right,
because when the adjustment feels right off the bike, then you tighten the QR,
the length of the axle it further compresses, as you tighten the lever.
so You Must anticipate that compression with the goldilocks amount of play.
when, you tighten the cone and locknut with your 2 wrenches..
to have the preload just right when you clamp down the QR lever..
because when the adjustment feels right off the bike, then you tighten the QR,
the length of the axle it further compresses, as you tighten the lever.
so You Must anticipate that compression with the goldilocks amount of play.
when, you tighten the cone and locknut with your 2 wrenches..
to have the preload just right when you clamp down the QR lever..
07-11-11, 01:20 PM
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 349
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
Thanks for the info. I'll give it another try, and maybe replace the bearings while I'm at it.
Sure, I use my trusty cone wrench and counter-tighten the cones against the locknut.
Is it possible that the actual hub inside diameter itself, and not the cones or bearings could be an issue?
Sure, I use my trusty cone wrench and counter-tighten the cones against the locknut.
Is it possible that the actual hub inside diameter itself, and not the cones or bearings could be an issue?
07-11-11, 01:33 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sunnyvale, California
Posts: 1,180
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1, 600, T700, MB-6 w/ Dirt Drops, MB-Zip, Bianchi Limited, Nashbar Hounder
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Very improbable. The standard axles have quite a bit of clearance because the hub center bores are usually at least 1/2 to 1 mm wider than the outer thread. There is the except when you have severe bent axle, and someone has tried to bend it back and then reverse the side of the axle where it may now touch the wall of the center bore hole in the hub. But something that severe would prevent correct cone adjustment in the first place.
Last edited by gyozadude; 07-11-11 at 04:51 PM.
07-11-11, 08:33 PM
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 349
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
Success!
I disassembled the entire rear wheel hub/freehub/gear cluster assembly, and cleaned and lubed everything up and carefully reassembled everything and voila: No Wobble!
Interestingly the freehub didn't turn as freely as it should have and needed lubed up too. Worked smoothly and freely after the lube job.
Wheel was fairly out of true so I trued it up too.
All set for the rest of the rest of the season now!
I disassembled the entire rear wheel hub/freehub/gear cluster assembly, and cleaned and lubed everything up and carefully reassembled everything and voila: No Wobble!
Interestingly the freehub didn't turn as freely as it should have and needed lubed up too. Worked smoothly and freely after the lube job.
Wheel was fairly out of true so I trued it up too.
All set for the rest of the rest of the season now!
07-12-11, 07:51 AM
#7
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
Success!
I disassembled the entire rear wheel hub/freehub/gear cluster assembly, and cleaned and lubed everything up and carefully reassembled everything and voila: No Wobble!
Interestingly the freehub didn't turn as freely as it should have and needed lubed up too. Worked smoothly and freely after the lube job.
Wheel was fairly out of true so I trued it up too.
All set for the rest of the rest of the season now!
I disassembled the entire rear wheel hub/freehub/gear cluster assembly, and cleaned and lubed everything up and carefully reassembled everything and voila: No Wobble!
Interestingly the freehub didn't turn as freely as it should have and needed lubed up too. Worked smoothly and freely after the lube job.
Wheel was fairly out of true so I trued it up too.
All set for the rest of the rest of the season now!
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
07-12-11, 11:27 AM
#8
Thrifty Bill
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
+1 Never disassemble the driveside, unless you are replacing all of the cones. By leaving that drive side cone and lock nut in place, you are assured of keeping the proper axle spacing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pico Triano
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
7
11-12-13 06:26 PM
