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-   -   How do I remove the shine on my frame? (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/751284-how-do-i-remove-shine-my-frame.html)

Remedemic 07-13-11 12:08 PM

How do I remove the shine on my frame?
 
I want to achieve a nice "matte" look. If you don't know what that looks like, I just want to remove the "shine" from my frame and make it a basic dull gray without the gloss-look.

1) Is it safe for the paint if i remove the shine?

2) How would I do it? Sandpaper?

Thank you all who answer.

jimc101 07-13-11 12:20 PM

Options would be

Buy a frame which is the color you want in th first place

Get it re-sprayed / powdercoated in the color you want

Use matt stickers similar to what is used on cars to cover the frame

For removing the paint, the quickest way it to shot blast it, or use a paint stripper, the shot blaster will give a better finish, both ways will show up any imperfections in the welds

mileslong 07-13-11 12:42 PM

Try a liquid de-glosser. They are available at paint or hardware stores and are designed to dull the finish of glossy surfaces prior to repainting. Just be sure to try a small spot in an inconspicuous area to be sure it is the look you are after.

Tundra_Man 07-13-11 12:45 PM

I've de-shined other objects with 0000 steel wool. Never tried it with bike paint though, so you might want to test this method on an inconspicuous area like underneath the bottom bracket.

BCRider 07-13-11 06:25 PM

Sandpaper is much too agressive. You risk paint damage on the sharper edges as well as a directional stroke look which never seems to look right.

I've never heard of a "de-glosser" but if you can get some and it works out that would likely be the way to go.

Otherwise the trick would be to varnish the existing paintjob with some matt or flat good quality polyurethane varnish to add a non glossy clear coat.

Kimmo 07-14-11 09:00 AM


Originally Posted by BCRider (Post 12924904)
Sandpaper is much too agressive.

I dunno; how about 1200 grit?

Fine Scotchbrite would prolly do it easier, though... I imagine a lot of circular motion is called for in order to avoid a brushed look.

hpz937 07-14-11 09:43 AM

You could try window frosting, its just a matte clearcoat, I would assume it would do exactly what you want. you should be able to get at any hardware store.

pmt 07-14-11 06:24 PM

While it seems crazy to me, you can use a cleaning product called a Magic Eraser. It has ultra super mega fine abrasive and will gently dull a surface.

billnuke1 07-14-11 07:11 PM

Dare we ask what bike you are "de-glossing"? Sorry. I'm nosey!

petrolhead 07-14-11 07:52 PM

any automotive painter can spray a coat of two-pack clear with a flattening agent in it over your frame. The amount of flattener in the clear gives a different level of gloss. All major automotive paint companies such as PPG etc do it. This is just an example:

http://www.matrixsystem.com/docs/tec...Tech_Sheet.pdf

I love the suede look, my mild custom /62 thunderbird is flat green with a gloss metalflake roof. Go for it!

MikeWinVA 07-14-11 08:01 PM

Bosch, 3m and Festool make wet sanding disks in 1500 and 2000 grit. These must be used wet with water, mineral spirits or naptha. They work well on urethane/lpu, lacquer and enamel paints. These will work on any finish softer than granite. This would be the preferred way to mechanically dull the finish. It abrades away very little of the finish. Chemical flateners may soften the finish for some period of time.

Otherwise, try using steel 0000 wool rotated 90 degrees from the direction you buff, use a paste furniture wax while you do this. Don't swirl while you do this. Pull and push only in one direction. After you are done, take some mineral spirits on a rag and wipe off the wax, also ammonia and water will remove the wax too. The paste wax acts like a lubricant and you are less likely to go through the finish, it also makes for finer scratches with the wool. If this leaves too course a finish get the wet sanding pads I mentioned above.

I have used both methods to take gloss finishes to matt in lacquer, shellac, enamel and urethane restoring damaged antiques to a matt finish after repairs were completed.

Guitarrick 07-14-11 08:07 PM

Wet sand with fine emory cloth. Hit your local hardware store up. I'd use 320 grit, as long as you're prepared to re-sand with progressivly finer grits between coats of satin clear. For the final sanding you should be using around a 1200 grit wet emory cloth paper. Mechanically buff with Turtle Wax polishing compound. Use Liquid Glass by hand from then on out.

OldsCOOL 07-14-11 10:13 PM


Originally Posted by Kimmo (Post 12927262)
I dunno; how about 1200 grit?

Fine Scotchbrite would prolly do it easier, though... I imagine a lot of circular motion is called for in order to avoid a brushed look.

I was guessing maybe 1500 or 2000. But then, maybe it's too fine.

fietsbob 07-15-11 01:13 AM

leave it outside in a sand storm.

Myosmith 07-15-11 06:35 AM

Ajax scouring powder wetted to a thin paste consistency on a fine synthetic steel wool scuff pad. It's what we used in the body shop to degloss automotive paint that was going to be painted over. Gives a nice matte finish but it is possible to rub through the paint if you get aggressive. There are also scuff compounds available at auto parts finishing stores, but they work no better than the Ajax.


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