Rear hub doesn't fit new frame dropout.
#1
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Rear hub doesn't fit new frame dropout.
Hi,
I started building up my new frame today - A Bob Jackson World Tour.
Tried to put the rear wheel on but the XT hub won't slide into the horizontal dropout on the drive side :/ It has 132.5 mm rear spacing.
I tried the wheel from my other bike which has an older Ultegra hub and it fit just fine.
Anyone seen this before? Should I just get the file out and file away at the dropout. I remember doing this on an older bike once, but being a brand new frame an' all I thought I'd ask you guys first.
Thanks for any advice.
I started building up my new frame today - A Bob Jackson World Tour.
Tried to put the rear wheel on but the XT hub won't slide into the horizontal dropout on the drive side :/ It has 132.5 mm rear spacing.
I tried the wheel from my other bike which has an older Ultegra hub and it fit just fine.
Anyone seen this before? Should I just get the file out and file away at the dropout. I remember doing this on an older bike once, but being a brand new frame an' all I thought I'd ask you guys first.

#2
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A 132mm OLD usually means that it can fit both MTB and road hubs, it just needs a little persuasion. Pull the dropouts apart and the hub will slot in. There is no need to break out the file.
My BJ World Tour takes MTB hubs without any force, ie 135mm OLD.
My BJ World Tour takes MTB hubs without any force, ie 135mm OLD.
#3
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Hi MichaelW, thanks for replying. The problem isn't the rear spacing, rather that the hub won't slide into the dropout. Sorry for the confusion. BJ built the frame spec'd at 132.5mm.
Here's a picture. I took the QR off. The wheel just won't go in any further as the dropout is too narrow. :/
Maybe I could just gently bend the "jaw" open an 'nth, but being a brand new frame I'm being overly cautious
Here's a picture. I took the QR off. The wheel just won't go in any further as the dropout is too narrow. :/
Maybe I could just gently bend the "jaw" open an 'nth, but being a brand new frame I'm being overly cautious
Last edited by imi; 07-21-11 at 05:31 AM.
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First I'd check for any damage in transit, can the frame have been dropped onto the derailleur hanger?
Next I'd take a file out and clear the paint away from the inside face of the axle slot. If that didn't do it, I'd rather widen the axle slot by filing the upward face of the axle slot. Even if it's steel, bending is a bit scary. It has those axle set screw holes right where it'll have to bend.
Next I'd take a file out and clear the paint away from the inside face of the axle slot. If that didn't do it, I'd rather widen the axle slot by filing the upward face of the axle slot. Even if it's steel, bending is a bit scary. It has those axle set screw holes right where it'll have to bend.
#5
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Did you ask Bob Jackson what he suggests?
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It might be a bent dropout but a bash to the derailleur hanger usually results in a bent hanger. It is very hard to bend the dropouts accurately and you probably missalign the frame.
It could be excess braze material clogging the end of the slot.
See if the axle will slot in from the side, bypassing the entrance ie insert one end of the axle from outside the frame, not its normal position inside the frame, axially into the slot.
It could be excess braze material clogging the end of the slot.
See if the axle will slot in from the side, bypassing the entrance ie insert one end of the axle from outside the frame, not its normal position inside the frame, axially into the slot.
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There are a few different specs for axle diameter for MTB hubs.
namely, I think there was 8mm, 10mm, 15mm and 20mm.
I would just file away the bottom of the dropout a bit.
namely, I think there was 8mm, 10mm, 15mm and 20mm.
I would just file away the bottom of the dropout a bit.
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Not any more. I think your XT hub probably has a 14mm axle, your dropout is probably for the traditional 10mm rear axle. If you know your hub model number you can verify this real quickly.
#12
Banned
As shown In the picture? I'd just file on the edge of the dropout slot,
the bottom side , when the bike is upside down, till it slid in, it's real,close ,
just a little paint to take off , maybe 0,5mm .. an RCH ..
Double check the derailleur hanger alignment, maybe run a Tap
thru all the threaded parts to chase/ clean up the threads..
sold a few steel Italian race bikes, back in another shop, years ago ..
brand new they the famous brand frame makers,
expected the dealer to tap and face the BB, ream and face the headtube,
the wear and tear on the cutting tools distributed to each of the storekeepers.
Helped sell a Lot of campagnolo tool kits too..
your retailer should have sorted out that frame too.
the bottom side , when the bike is upside down, till it slid in, it's real,close ,
just a little paint to take off , maybe 0,5mm .. an RCH ..
Double check the derailleur hanger alignment, maybe run a Tap
thru all the threaded parts to chase/ clean up the threads..
sold a few steel Italian race bikes, back in another shop, years ago ..
brand new they the famous brand frame makers,
expected the dealer to tap and face the BB, ream and face the headtube,
the wear and tear on the cutting tools distributed to each of the storekeepers.
Helped sell a Lot of campagnolo tool kits too..
your retailer should have sorted out that frame too.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-21-11 at 02:09 PM.
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Nah, my vote is for a 10 mm axle trying to go in a slightly narrow 10 mm slot.
#14
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for your advice! I contacted BJ and got the following advice:
"What we have used in the passed is to slide a bar into the dropout from the front of the slot to the rear.i.e in the direction the wheel does in. Then apply a downwards force to open the dropout slot. It should go no problem they are not that hard and if you are now forcing the wheel in it will only need a fraction."
I have just successfully done this. It really was the minutest fraction that was needed before the hub axle slid in. *phew* breathes easily again!
Thanks again. I've learnt so much from BF and am amazed at how you guys tirelessy share your wisdom...
"What we have used in the passed is to slide a bar into the dropout from the front of the slot to the rear.i.e in the direction the wheel does in. Then apply a downwards force to open the dropout slot. It should go no problem they are not that hard and if you are now forcing the wheel in it will only need a fraction."
I have just successfully done this. It really was the minutest fraction that was needed before the hub axle slid in. *phew* breathes easily again!

Thanks again. I've learnt so much from BF and am amazed at how you guys tirelessy share your wisdom...

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I believe the 14mm dimension on the axles is the part betwen the dropouts (inside the hub) and the little nubs that fit into the dropouts are still 10mm as always.
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I've filed open a drop out before with no trouble - it was just a little buggered up and needed to be smoothed out. I'd feel safe cleaning out the slot than bending it open.
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02-17-22 11:23 AM