Bike pulling to the right...
#1
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Bike pulling to the right...
Hi guys, got a nice steel frame a few weeks ago, finally got time and I got it built yesterday night, today went to test it and I noticed that the frame pulls to the right when going no hands, is not that bad but is annoying because u can't feed or drink comfortably.
The front wheel looks tiny to the right tho. Maybe 2 or 3 mm tilt to the right.
Tonite I checked the frame with a string and is acceptable, the rear end is ok too, rear end is 128 mm not 130, was built maybe in the transitions from 126 to 130 but so far the frame looks ok.
Just took the fork out and started making just silly measurements in the fork crown area and drop outs to see how bad they are.
The back of the fork crown at the top is off like 2 mm, the left side is like 2 mm lower than the right side. (the fork is facing down)
Now if I flip the fork, now with the curve of the fork looking up (facing up), the top of the drop outs are obviously off like for 3 mm between them as well.
Now, how in the world do i fix this? Just crank it with a 2x4 or something? I mean crank one fork blade up and then one fork blade down until I get them even?? Once fixed it wil fix also the tilt in the front wheel aswell??
Have not checked drop out alignment because i dont have the tools so, this difference between the fork blades could be because of drop out alignment or not? I dont think so but I could be wrong too.
Any help will be appreciated, thanks!
The front wheel looks tiny to the right tho. Maybe 2 or 3 mm tilt to the right.
Tonite I checked the frame with a string and is acceptable, the rear end is ok too, rear end is 128 mm not 130, was built maybe in the transitions from 126 to 130 but so far the frame looks ok.
Just took the fork out and started making just silly measurements in the fork crown area and drop outs to see how bad they are.
The back of the fork crown at the top is off like 2 mm, the left side is like 2 mm lower than the right side. (the fork is facing down)
Now if I flip the fork, now with the curve of the fork looking up (facing up), the top of the drop outs are obviously off like for 3 mm between them as well.
Now, how in the world do i fix this? Just crank it with a 2x4 or something? I mean crank one fork blade up and then one fork blade down until I get them even?? Once fixed it wil fix also the tilt in the front wheel aswell??
Have not checked drop out alignment because i dont have the tools so, this difference between the fork blades could be because of drop out alignment or not? I dont think so but I could be wrong too.
Any help will be appreciated, thanks!
#2
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Keep that 2x4 away, sounds like a cromagnon solution that could turn out bad. It aint a precision instrument, LOL! Take it to a LBS that has a frame/fork alignment tool and have them tweak it back into proper spec. It should be correctable since you have a steel frame and fork(?) which is much more easy to work with in these instances than a aluminum/carbon frame.
Is this a new or used frame?
Is this a new or used frame?
#3
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It is used, well LBS sucks big time around here but i'll ask what can be done. The impression i have is that the frame spend years leaning to one side and there u have the results. Found a stick that fits perfect in the steering tube and the whole fork is like off a few mm to the right in both blades.
I know I have to tweak those two blades to the left and tweak the blades too. What to do 1st? the blades then get them parallel and check drop out alignment?? Now i have a good excuse to make myself a drop out alignment gauge using a rod and a few bolts.
I know I have to tweak those two blades to the left and tweak the blades too. What to do 1st? the blades then get them parallel and check drop out alignment?? Now i have a good excuse to make myself a drop out alignment gauge using a rod and a few bolts.
#4
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Your bike shop won't be able to handle this. Take it to the nearest frame builder. Mine charges $80 for a full frame and fork alignment job ($40 for just the fork), a very reasonable fee for the expertise and precision involved in the job.
If you don't think the frame is worth spending that kind of money on and decide to do the job yourself, note that it'll take a considerable amount of force to bend the fork blades. You'll need a sturdy vice on a table preferably bolted to the floor. Secure the fork via the steerer tube with a set of frame blocks (you can make your own out of wood), and bend the fork blades individually. You'll need to make sure the fork cannot rotate about the steerer axis as you attempt to bend the fork blades. Check for dropout alignment after the blades are equidistant from the centreline. Remember to achieve the proper dropout spacing.
I don't know how much money you make per hour, but with the amount of time you'll likely spend on this, you might as well pay the $40 and get a professional to do it and leave with the knowledge that the alignment is perfect.
If you don't think the frame is worth spending that kind of money on and decide to do the job yourself, note that it'll take a considerable amount of force to bend the fork blades. You'll need a sturdy vice on a table preferably bolted to the floor. Secure the fork via the steerer tube with a set of frame blocks (you can make your own out of wood), and bend the fork blades individually. You'll need to make sure the fork cannot rotate about the steerer axis as you attempt to bend the fork blades. Check for dropout alignment after the blades are equidistant from the centreline. Remember to achieve the proper dropout spacing.
I don't know how much money you make per hour, but with the amount of time you'll likely spend on this, you might as well pay the $40 and get a professional to do it and leave with the knowledge that the alignment is perfect.
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Yan I was in toronto I would go to guelph and have the winterborne guy to handle it but no frame builders in this area so im kind'a forced to do it myself. Gonna have to ask my neigboard for his vice because i have nothing here in my place :/ Probably he even have the pipe in the diameter needed.
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I was just guessing because both stays are perfectly parallel but to the side. Clearly the fork is not wrecked but it could be a problem of fabrication also but i doubt it.
Well after 5 hours working out the fork I have it aligned, jezzz was tough. what I did was get 1 inch u-bolts (2 units) and I drilled holes in a fence i have in the backyard to hold those 2 u-bolts and hold the steering column really firm. After 3 hours the darn fork was corrected and the wheels finally were dead center. After 3 more hours the two stays were parallel to each other. Like 45 mins per mm, darn steel awefully strong i'm just impressed.
Well after 5 hours working out the fork I have it aligned, jezzz was tough. what I did was get 1 inch u-bolts (2 units) and I drilled holes in a fence i have in the backyard to hold those 2 u-bolts and hold the steering column really firm. After 3 hours the darn fork was corrected and the wheels finally were dead center. After 3 more hours the two stays were parallel to each other. Like 45 mins per mm, darn steel awefully strong i'm just impressed.
#8
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Hopefully, you will now be able to ride while using both hands to text.

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Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
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Actually that's what I do
Bad handling customs from my racing days. If the bike is right u can ride even in a track in the upper or lower banks with no problems and even go up and down slightly with just move your weight off the center a little bit 
Went to ride the bike to the street and the pulling is long gone, noticed right away that the bike was trailing nice, the beauty of this frame im talking about is that the fork trail is really short, like 30 or 35 mm so it turns extremely fast, even I manage to do some stuff is a pain to do in other bikes i have. Looks like is Criterium made frame because it moves like a track bike, super short turns also.


Went to ride the bike to the street and the pulling is long gone, noticed right away that the bike was trailing nice, the beauty of this frame im talking about is that the fork trail is really short, like 30 or 35 mm so it turns extremely fast, even I manage to do some stuff is a pain to do in other bikes i have. Looks like is Criterium made frame because it moves like a track bike, super short turns also.