lapazmike

I was waiting for a tire problem before tackling the install of my new rubber. A blowout in our summer heat yesterday waiting to start a group ride gave me the incentive today. I have been accumulating a few 'dimits' and 'sons of' in anticipation of this project. I reviewed the various "how to's on this notorious tough install.
The components:
Trek 720 Multi Trak w/ Araya PX - 45 36 hole rims,
Zipp High Perform Rim Tape 700c x 15mm,
Continental tour 700 tubes (long Schrader valve stem with retainer nut),
Schwalbe Marathon Plus 28x1.50 700x 38C

Removed old tire and tube; it had blown out 1/4" of the seam about the same distance from the valve stem.
Removed old rim tape; it was about twice as thick as replacement.
Cleaned the interior of rim with water, brush, and scrub pad. Air dried, did not take long in 95+F. .
Dry fit the tube, it seems oversized. Removed tube (do not need that getting in the way of the battle!
Slipped one sidewall over the rim. Hey that was not bad at all! Less than minute;
slipped valve stem through rim hole and put tube inside the tire. Still no air. If I am going to battle getting everything onto the rim, I do not need to contend with compressed air, (even a small amount).

OK, getting to the good part. I added 8 nylon zip lock wire ties to the tool assortment.
Starting about 2 inches on each side of valve stem, I tucked both sidewall together and pushed the tire beads together into the center of rim recess and then snugged a wire tie around it to hold it in place. I alternated sides repeating this procedure until there was maybe a 10-12 inch section opposite the valve stem. This last section could have been a one handed operation. This was too easy, something must be wrong. Tighten the retaining nut on valve stem. Inspect twice.

Well let's try a bit of air, OK a little more, cut a few of the wire ties, more air, cut the rest of wire ties. Air to 25 psi. Looks to be on the rim evenly.

I have the rear tire off and rim cleaned and drying. I think I will talc the interior of tire
on this one before install.

OK, tell me, was this beginner's luck, just an easy mix of parts, or have I come upon a new easier routine for mounting this Schwalbe bad boy tire? Is there a Hall of Fame for simple solutions to reputed hard tough problems? OR as a senior beginner did I forget some critical steps? I did have a cold one afterwards and plan on another in the morning when I finish the rear tire.

AEO

you used a wide tire and your rims are quite wide too.
next time, try it with a narrower tire on a narrower rim.

MichaelW

Read the book? Now see the .

Northwestrider

Here's a video possibly describing something similar,
https://youtu.be/-XUFVrl0UT4

lapazmike

Good video. very similar routine. The use of more zip ties possibly held the bead in the center of rim the first time around.

Tell this old beginner 1) why the tube is aired slightly before insert into tire? Is the airing done when changing a flat out on the road? 2) why the loose valve stem vs. just making it barely snug to start? (Just a carry over from when a retaining nut was not in common use?)

fietsbob

give it the 3D shape to help get it to not be trapped between tire bead,
and rim edge,
so it then blows the tire off the rim , when you do, put air in it..

blowing tire off the rim is not good .

pstock

let me add my 2cents.
I have been struggling for 2 hours to install a used Marathon Plus 700x25. BRUTAL.
Unlike the Spa Cycles video (which seems to address the problem of a too snug fit) my problem is that the second bead wants to pop out of the rim. It's as if the tire with all this puncture resistance stuff does not have a "normal" (i.e. fairly round) profile. Instead the cross section of my tire is quite flat across the tread, almost oval-shaped.
any suggestions?

Peter

And a note to Schwalbe if they are reading this. How could you have designed such a stupidly hard to install tire. Great that it is puncture resistant but a tire that you cannot install is about as useful as a brick (which is also puncture resistant.)
do have any sense of the ill will you generate by lobbing this lemon out on the market? Do you think I am going to drop $$$ on a Schwalbe product again?

davidad

For a flat on the road this can't be beat. https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...&item_id=KS-TJ I have not seen a harder tire to remove or mount and hope I never do.
I have bought the first and last pair of these tires. I will stick to the Parcela TG.s.

davidad

OK, tell me, was this beginner's luck, just an easy mix of parts, or have I come upon a new easier routine for mounting this Schwalbe bad boy tire? Is there a Hall of Fame for simple solutions to reputed hard tough problems? OR as a senior beginner did I forget some critical steps? I did have a cold one afterwards and plan on another in the morning when I finish the rear tire.[/QUOTE]

I would rather be lucky than good. There ain't no substitute for dumb luck.

cny-bikeman

Well, congrats on getting it on, but you call using multiple zip ties effortless? BTW, you would have had an easier time had you ended near the valve stem, instead of starting there. Because the valve stem and especially the reinforcement at the base interfere you can't really push the tire beads into the center of the rim recess. You will have more slack in the tire if you start at the opposite side of the rim.

3alarmer 

All my Schwalbe tires have gone on effortlessly.................cursing requires little effort on my part.

social suicide

I'm running Marathon pluses on my old Moulton, 16 x 1 3/8s. The first time took about 10 minutes per tire. Never used any tools just bare handed. The last time It only took about 3 minutes. You just gotta know the right combination of curses. V...W...B...W...B(again) And yes my thumnails bleed a little afterword.

ksisler

[Partial QUOTE=pstock;14803092]let me add my 2cents.
And a note to Schwalbe if they are reading this. How could you have designed such a stupidly hard to install tire.[/QUOTE]

Mostly requires one to just relax and let the tire guide you... but the real secret imho is to: Sit in a chair with the rim tucked in at your hips and your arms out to reach the other side of the rim were the valve hole is. Assuming you have already put the first sidewall on the rim and have powered the tub and slipped the valve through the hole in the rim (leave the nut off for not). Now start by putting the second sidewall on at the valve and give the tube's valve a little push upward with the finger to make sure it is up inside the tire (not down on the floor of the rim). Then work/slide your hands outward from there, keeping the tire in the center of the rim by using your thumb and index finger to press inward on the sidewall and pulling down to secure it. By the time you get to the other side, your thumbs will be about 6-8 inches apart and they will be in just the right spot to grunt the last bit of the bead up and over the rim. But first, while still holding everything in place, just flip the rim over so your hands are again away from your body. Push the bead up and over with your thumbs. Sometimes it helps to have a helper ready at your side with a nylon tire tool to slip in under the bead and add some additional grunt.

fietsbob

"Effortless" on the customers part, ... is having the shop you buy the tires from,
get a few more bucks, in labor charges, to do it for you.

Makeitso

what do you do if you have a flat on the road with these tires? call a cab?

3alarmer 

That's why you carry the bead jack in post #8...........and cursing is just as easily done by the side of the road.

ThermionicScott 

First, remove the toe straps from your pedals...

Doug5150

I am another who doesn't find the Marathon Plus difficult to mount or unmount.
The first time I expected it to be, but the first side went on, and then while I was getting the second side on, the first side actually fell off....

You gotta grab the whole tire's width, to keep the tension on the first side you put on, while you work on the second.