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Help me get a cross threaded pedal off of the crank!

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Help me get a cross threaded pedal off of the crank!

Old 08-02-11, 08:08 PM
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Help me get a cross threaded pedal off of the crank!

I was removing the plastic platform pedals from my hybrid so I could put the toe-clipped pedals from my dad's old Motobecane road bike. I took both pedals off of the Motobecane without issue, with a 6 inch wrench. I then tried to remove the drive side pedal with the "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey method". It would not budge. I gave up and went on to the non driveside pedal. It removed quite easily. I put on the left-side pedal from the Motobecane. It threaded on very easily. I was careful not to crossthread. I decided to go back at the driveside pedal with the 6 inch wrench and a pipe over it. It ended up breaking the wrench. I assume this means that the pedal is badly crossthreaded. What do I do?
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Old 08-02-11, 08:09 PM
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Here's a picture of the broken wrench:

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Old 08-02-11, 08:23 PM
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That's not the wrench for the job. There's good reason for shop quality pedal wrenches to be made good and beefy.

Take it to a shop. It's cheaper than buying one of these.
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Old 08-02-11, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
That's not the wrench for the job.
I know it's not.. But a lot of people say that you can get away with using a regular adjustable 6 inch wrench.. So do you think the pedal is cross threaded? I will have to ride to the LBS with two different pedals on my cranks. I will have to bring both the left-side plastic platform and the right-side metal toe-clipped pedal in case the right platform is so badly cross threaded that it would be in my best interest to keep it on and use platforms.

Are you saying that it's not crossthreaded?
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Old 08-02-11, 08:28 PM
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Breaking a 6" wrench isn't an indicator that the pedal can't be removed. These are built for light duty, and while the cheater bar gave you more leverage, it didn't make the wrench any stronger.

Bike shop pedal wrenches are typically 15 or more inches long, and made of stern stuff. They're made for the kind of torque removing a frozen pedal involves. Odds are you'll be able to remove the pedal with the right tool. Or you can bring it to a local shop who can give it a go.
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Old 08-02-11, 08:31 PM
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Are you guys saying that it's not crossthreaded? Because I'd really like to have toe-clips on my bike. I'll pay the $5 or $10 that the LBS will charge to remove the pedal if the threads on the crank aren't damaged to the point that I can't install a new pedal.
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Old 08-02-11, 08:39 PM
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Most pedals I've installed came with the instruction to grease
the threads before screwing in. Maybe yours is seized, you can
try spraying it with a penetrating oil(PB Blaster, etc) and
letting it soak over night.
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Old 08-02-11, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1nterceptor
Most pedals I've installed came with the instruction to grease
the threads before screwing in. Maybe yours is seized, you can
try spraying it with a penetrating oil(PB Blaster, etc) and
letting it soak over night.
I'm just going to take it to the LBS in the morning and have them work on it.
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Old 08-02-11, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaDogg
Are you guys saying that it's not crossthreaded? Because I'd really like to have toe-clips on my bike. I'll pay the $5 or $10 that the LBS will charge to remove the pedal if the threads on the crank aren't damaged to the point that I can't install a new pedal.
Yes, in all likelihood it isn't cross threaded, just tight. It might be seized, but you won't know until you try. Cross threaded pedals usually can't be tightened all the way, and would rock as the crank turned and the prior owner would have noticed.
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Old 08-02-11, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaDogg
I know it's not.. But a lot of people say that you can get away with using a regular adjustable 6 inch wrench.. So do you think the pedal is cross threaded? I will have to ride to the LBS with two different pedals on my cranks. I will have to bring both the left-side plastic platform and the right-side metal toe-clipped pedal in case the right platform is so badly cross threaded that it would be in my best interest to keep it on and use platforms.

Are you saying that it's not crossthreaded?
Most likely not cross threaded. Likely just tight.
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Old 08-02-11, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
...the prior owner would have noticed.
I am the first owner of the bike. So I guess it's not cross threaded. This is good news for me. Thanks!
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Old 08-02-11, 09:03 PM
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Wonder if you are losing it to the wrong side?
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Old 08-02-11, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970
Wonder if you are losing it to the wrong side?
Oh ****. I think I may have been turning the wrench the wrong direction. I'll just pay the LBS to remove the pedal and install the toe-clipped one. DAMN
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Old 08-02-11, 09:08 PM
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pedal

Pedal Threading

Direction

The right pedal has a normal thread, but the left pedal has a left (reverse) thread.
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Old 08-02-11, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1nterceptor
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pedal

Pedal Threading

Direction

The right pedal has a normal thread, but the left pedal has a left (reverse) thread.
I know that. That's how I was able to get the left pedal off. It was just me being stupid that broke the wrench. I was turning it the wrong direction.
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Old 08-02-11, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaDogg
I know that. That's how I was able to get the left pedal off. It was just me being stupid that broke the wrench. I was turning it the wrong direction.
Don't beat yourself up, compost happens.

For future reference, the easiest way not to get confused mounting or removing pedals is to remember that both pedals tighten in the same direction as pedaling the bike, ie. top toward front of the bike, and both loosen in the backpedal direction.

That's one of the frustrations of removing a tight pedal, the crank wants to turn backward. So if the chain is holding the crank for you while you remove a pedal, you're turning the wrong way and tightening.
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Old 08-03-11, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Don't beat yourself up, compost happens.

For future reference, the easiest way not to get confused mounting or removing pedals is to remember that both pedals tighten in the same direction as pedaling the bike, ie. top toward front of the bike, and both loosen in the backpedal direction.

That's one of the frustrations of removing a tight pedal, the crank wants to turn backward. So if the chain is holding the crank for you while you remove a pedal, you're turning the wrong way and tightening.
Great guideline, Thanks.

BTW Do you bikers ever use Never-Seize compound on these threads?
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Old 08-03-11, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lapazmike
Great guideline, Thanks.

BTW Do you bikers ever use Never-Seize compound on these threads?
I'm not familiar with that product. Usually I just use whatever is at hand, in my
case it's lithium grease in a tube. Also called white grease, used a lot on automotive
applications. Can't remember the brand.
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Old 08-03-11, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1nterceptor
I'm not familiar with that product.
The lowdown;
https://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm
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Old 08-03-11, 03:59 AM
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Yep, I often use anti-seize on pedal threads. It's really messy, though, and I'm sure good grease will work just fine.
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Old 08-03-11, 03:46 PM
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I just got back from a 25 mile ride. I rode 2miles this morning to the LBS to get my pedal removed. The LBS guy thought it was crossthreaded, but the new (well, old) pedal threaded on just fine. I was able to keep up a higher speed with my new (again, old) pedals, as I can pull up on the cranks (vs regular platforms, where you can only push down).
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Old 08-03-11, 04:39 PM
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Performance Bike sells their store-brand Spin Doctor pedal wrench for $15. It would be well worth investing in. Now that you've discovered the joys of toe clips, clipless can't be far behind.
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Old 08-03-11, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CACycling
Performance Bike sells their store-brand Spin Doctor pedal wrench for $15. It would be well worth investing in. Now that you've discovered the joys of toe clips, clipless can't be far behind.
I actually stopped at Performance, as they are the closest bike shop to my house. I figured any bike shop can do it, so I can go to any shop. I like the clipped pedals, as they allow me to go faster.. But the clipped pedals I have on my bike are from 1979. They look so out of place on my 2010 bike. They don't match the bike at all. I would like to go clipless, except the pedals and the shoes are expensive.
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Old 08-03-11, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaDogg
I would like to go clipless, except the pedals and the shoes are expensive.
My first clipless set up was a pair of Shimano M520 pedals with MTB shoes (less than $50 total on eBay). Worked great and still use them on my MTB. It was an easy way to get started. For my wife, I picked up a pair of almost-new Shimano road shoes for $2 at a thrift store and paired them with M520s (the shoes accepted 2 or 3 hole cleats). A little patience goes a long way.
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Old 08-03-11, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CACycling
My first clipless set up was a pair of Shimano M520 pedals with MTB shoes (less than $50 total on eBay). Worked great and still use them on my MTB. It was an easy way to get started. For my wife, I picked up a pair of almost-new Shimano road shoes for $2 at a thrift store and paired them with M520s (the shoes accepted 2 or 3 hole cleats). A little patience goes a long way.
I'll keep my eye out for some good deals. I'm only 15, so maybe my parents will help me out. Maybe they will get them for my birthday (in February, so during the of season of cycling). Those M520's are only $35ish on amazon. So I only need regular mtb shoes? any particular brand?
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