converting rear hub from solid to QR axle
 

I picked up an old bike ('83 Nishki Century) in excellent condition. I would like to convert the hubs to QR. The rear hub is 126mm O.L.W. and the measurment between the outsides of the chainstays is 134mm. I am looking at replacement axles from WheelsMfg and the closest available lengths are 137mm and 141mm.

Am I correct in assuming that the 137mm length is the one I want?

A more basic question would be - is it ok to have the 1.5mm sticking outside the dropouts, or, does it have to be flush (or less)?

If someone has a different suggestion for some other QR axle (and source), I'd appreciate that, too.

Actually is should be a bit less than flush so there is no interference between the end of the axel and QR. Also, the replacement axel has to be the same diameter as the original or you will need new cones and locknuts.

137mm is what you want. But you will have to cut off the excess. The way I do it is this. Measure the hub from axle nut to axle nut. Write that figure down. Then Measure the thickness of the dropouts. Add both both the hub figure and both dropout figres together, deduct 3mm, and that is the length. Seems to work for me everytime. One thing though, when adding the thickness of the dropouts, always add both into the equation. One time I didn't and, well, I had to start over.

Also, if you're lazy and enjoy doing things half-assed (like me), you could just put the axle in the dropouts, line it up so the same amount hangs out on either side, and then mark and cut.

Thanks guys. So, since my outside_to_outside measurement is 134, I want 131-132 length. I did check the diameter and pitch. It's old, but common - 9.5mm X 26tpi, and available in 137 and 141 lengths.

I've never cut an axle before, but I am thinking that the best way would be to put two nuts on each end (I'll likely try to cut the same amount off each end) and lock them at the correct length and then go at it with the hacksaw. Then, clean up the ends with my Dremel. Cool, this will need a power tool :)

Good comments all. Thanks again.

Is there a reason you don't want to just cut once? I don't know the details of axles, so have to ask. But if it were me and I could suffer through one hacksaw cut or two, I'd see if I could limit myself to one.

Yes, there is reason. The axel is not threaded all the way. Only the ends are threaded and the middle of the axle is not. That being said, the unthreaded section is not very wide and you probably could just make the cut on one end and it would work just fine. The nice thing about doing it yourself is you can take your time and be as fussy as you want.

No, my way is lazier. My way only needs one cut, yours needs 2. And in your way, the spread of the frame is not taken into account. Most frames are not exactly 135mm drop out to drop out. And you do not want the axle to be flush with the outside of the drop outs. There needs to be a slight gap to the axle from the outside.

That should not matter. As a matter of fact when I am cutting a rear axle that is not threade all the way, I take the cut on the left side, leaving the freehub/freewheel side with the most threads. A way to make sure you have enough is to take out the axle leaving Right set of nuts,cones and spacers on the axle. Hold up the solid axle to the QR axle and do a visual check. I think you will find there are plenty of threads to make a single cut.

I'm interested in converting my current Shimano Deore HB-M510 VIA-M (quick release) hubs, if feasible, into an axle based hub. (both are shown in pic) Overall I'm looking to swap wheelsets, from a front suspension fork onto a steel rigid fork. As you can see, original hub on steel fork has axle based in latching onto fork. Whereas my shimano deore is a qr, without axle.

So could hub be converted somehow or get new hub/wheelset? My rear wheelset though, does have axle.

Also if I wanted to add front disc brakes...which particular brands and brake models is a best recommend? Avid? Or other good value performing brand? :speedy:

I also have a threaded headset (pic included) with flat handlebars on my steel bike, which I'm interested in having replaced with a threadless handlebar. Is height adjustment more versatile or easier with spacers? Also, does someone use adjustable stem (such as Specialized) on their bikes, is this an advisable useful upgrade in adjusting your reach? (to make riding more versatile, whether on road or trails)

Way to go dude. 4 year old thread.

you prefer more recent threads? sa good refresh topic.

AND THREAD PITCH.

You need to keep the same cones because you probably won't be able to find cones that match your hub's dust covers.

What? You're dissing this guy because he took the initiative to use the Search function? It's not like this was a controversial thread, or such.

Other than a useless comment, having nothing to do with the thread itself, do you have a point to make?