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Question about look delta cleats

Old 09-02-11, 07:26 PM
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Question about look delta cleats

The red cleats have a good bit of float and the black cleats have zero to very little float. So how easy is it to get into the pedals with each cleat and which cleat would be the easiest to unclip? Is there any difference between the use of the cleats or is it only the amount of float that is the difference between the cleats.

The reason that I ask this is because I have some red cleats and they clip in very easily but they are difficult to twist and get them to release. I manage to get them to work ok but I would like to have something easier to unclip. Also I don't like the float and have my cleats set so that they are against the stops to the outside when my feet are straight in alignment with my pedal stroke. I don't know if I could adjust zero float cleats so that my feet would be straight based on how much I have to angle the red cleats.

Any opinions will be appreciated.
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Old 09-02-11, 08:43 PM
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I use both , depending on how I feel like riding.
THe red ones can feel VERY sloppy, depending on how tight you have the actual pedals set. You have to swing your foot out a lot farther to get them to unclip. THe black, OTOH, can feel so solid that you can't adjust at all, but as soon as you start to arc your foot outwards (or inwards) you'll pop out.
Keep in mind, I'm using these on multiple pedals from different manufacturers:
Original LOOK Deltas
Arc LOOK 8/12
Shimano PD-6401
Forte' CR-150
If you really want your feet to stay in one position, you probably would be happier with the black ones.
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Old 09-03-11, 03:43 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I also have different pedals that I use the cleats on. I have some shimano pedals that the cleats don't float like that they are on ice and unclip with little twisting force but the pedals are a little hard to get clipped into because the cleat has to be very closely aligned with the pedal.

The other pedals are nashbar and they are set very light. The clipping in is very easy but the float is like standing on ice and the unclipping is like trying to twist your leg off. It is like the springs in the nashbar pedals are very strong and just don't want to let the pedal open up to unclip. I am considering removing one of the two springs in each pedal to see if that will make the unclipping easier. Has anyone else removed one spring from a pedal to get a better operation?
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Old 09-03-11, 06:48 AM
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as far as stepping into the pedals there should be relatively no difference between the red and black cleats. Due to the free float design of the red cleats (4.5 degrees from center in each direction) you will have to turn your ankle more than the black ones.

The noticeable sliding of the red cleat on the pedal can be unsettling at first but both the free float and the extra distance of the ankle turn will become second nature in time and the focus on each will diminish.

One thing you can do if you have not done so already is to reduce the release tension setting of your pedals. This will make unlcipping easier. Also try not to twist your foot when unclipping...by this I mean rotating it as if you are trying to look at the bottom of your foot. Instead think of "swinging" your heel to the outside.

When the lower leg extends at the knee it does not just hinge, it twists a little as well. With the black cleat it is more imperative to ensure the cleat is properly aligned to prevent knee problems do to this "screw-home" effect during extension of the lower leg. With the free float of the red cleat there is more room to compensate for error in cleat alignment and you are less likely to develop problems with your knees.

-j
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Old 09-03-11, 09:37 AM
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I don't need any knee problems so maybe I will just stick with the floating. This float makes me tense my muscles a little to keep the foot from sliding but I am riding for exercise so a little tensing of the muscles will just be extra exercise.
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Old 09-24-11, 05:59 PM
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I wonder if there is any way to weaken the springs on the Nashbar pedals. I loosened the tension to the point that the screw was ready to fall out and the back part of the pedal was free to move a little before it hit against the spring tension. This worked a little better but it is still not like it should be. I put the shimano pedals back on the bike and it hardly took any effort to unclip.

The nashbar pedals have two springs per pedal. I would remove one spring but if I do this it may put torque on the adjusting screw and cause problems. If I could replace these springs or if I could weaken them to about 1/2 strength, then these pedals would work much better for me.

I may have to get some piano wire and see if I can wind me some springs.
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