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Please help me removing my campy cranks. screws i have never seen

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Please help me removing my campy cranks. screws i have never seen

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Old 10-08-11, 04:43 AM
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philie
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Please help me removing my campy cranks. screws i have never seen

hey,
i just bought a beautiful new bike for myself ( its an pretty rare argentine made roselli ) which had a campy crankset on it i would like to remove.
thing is: this isn't my first crankset removal but i really never have worked with a one like this:









it was fairly easy to turn the screw and it loosened itself pretty well but only like half a turn, then it became stiff again.
since i don't want to destroy anything i would like to ask you. is this a normal screw i have to turn out with some power to is there something special with it?
it seemed strange to me that i was able to turn the screw on both sides easily half a turn and then it stiffened again.

also, does anybody can tell me what kind of crankset this is?
thanks in advance!
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Old 10-08-11, 05:10 AM
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This looks like a self extracting crank. you have loosened the crank bolt, when it gets stiffer, it is starting to push against the lock bolt. Keep on turning the bolt and the cranks will come off with the bolt.
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Old 10-08-11, 05:27 AM
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philie
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thanks very much! that helped me a lot!
never new something like that existed.
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Old 10-08-11, 05:16 PM
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Jeff Wills
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Originally Posted by philie View Post
also, does anybody can tell me what kind of crankset this is?
thanks in advance!
Consult Velobase... it's a Croce D' Aune
http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponen...m=115&AbsPos=8
Props to you if you can pronounce it.
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Old 10-08-11, 05:22 PM
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For the record those screws have been in the market since 30 years ago, maybe even more.
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Old 10-08-11, 09:17 PM
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Jeff Wills
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
For the record those screws have been in the market since 30 years ago, maybe even more.
+1.

FWIW: the outer ring around the bolt is left-hand threaded. If you happen to completely bugger up the self-extracting bolt setup, there's a special left-threaded crank remover made by Campy. Expect to empty your bank account for one.
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Old 10-09-11, 05:01 AM
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If it's the same as Record of the era, it will use a 7mm Allen key to extract the crank. Do not use a 1/4" key, this is a sure fire method to bugger the head.

The behaviour you have described is absolutely normal: the bolt is initially bound against the inner side of the housing, then as you undo it it becomes free for about half a turn then it reaches the outer ring and you have to exert some real force to remove the crank. Just make sure that the outer ring (possibly left hand threaded - I believe later models were not*) is fully home before you start; remember that this is the part that bears against the relatively weak alloy of the crankarm itself.

*Similarly it's not hard to work out right hand from left hand thread on the extractor outer cap. They move fairly easily with a pin spanner and since they are close to flush with the crank it's not hard to determine the rotational direction required to move them each way.

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Old 10-09-11, 07:25 AM
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This system should have become the norm on square taper cranks... oh well, too late now
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Old 10-09-11, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
This system should have become the norm on square taper cranks... oh well, too late now
Aftermarket "Autex" self-extractor bolts and collars were sold by Suguino and would fit most square taper cranks using the common 22mm remover threads. They aren't made anymore but still can be found NOS occasionally. I had a set on an 8-speed 105 crank originally installed on my Co-Motion S&S coupled travel bike and S&S Machine used to offer them as an accessory.

Shimano provided similar auto-extractor bolts as standard on Ultegra and Dura Ace Octalink cranks.
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Old 10-09-11, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
This system should have become the norm on square taper cranks... oh well, too late now
Well... the 1st time I saw that was with shimano 600 arabesque, then shimano continued using it in almost all his cranks but the new ones that probably 95% of the guys know (the ones with external cups and one axle), i'm generalizing, i know.

Well campagnolo came with the idea too, but for some reason they stop using the system, sadly. But so far I believe was FSA the ones that made this things so sure are still available.
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Old 10-09-11, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
Well... the 1st time I saw that was with shimano 600 arabesque, then shimano continued using it in almost all his cranks but the new ones that probably 95% of the guys know (the ones with external cups and one axle), i'm generalizing, i know.

Well campagnolo came with the idea too, but for some reason they stop using the system, sadly. But so far I believe was FSA the ones that made this things so sure are still available.
The "One-Key Release" from Shimano, and the "Autex" system from Sugino used 6mm hex (Allen) wrenches. (Campy used a 7mm, Shimano Octalink used 8mm.) This made it easy to believe that you could adequately tighten the bolt with an ordinary "L" wrench. This is not true- the bolts should be tightened to 25 to 35 foot-pounds... much more than most people can exert with an ordinary "Allen" wrench. It's possible to do this with a hex bit and a torque wrench, but many (most) shadetree mechanics won't have that.

I saw more cranks ruined due to insufficient torque back then. I'm glad to see them gone.
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Old 10-09-11, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Wills View Post
The "One-Key Release" from Shimano, and the "Autex" system from Sugino used 6mm hex (Allen) wrenches. (Campy used a 7mm, Shimano Octalink used 8mm.) This made it easy to believe that you could adequately tighten the bolt with an ordinary "L" wrench. This is not true- the bolts should be tightened to 25 to 35 foot-pounds... much more than most people can exert with an ordinary "Allen" wrench. It's possible to do this with a hex bit and a torque wrench, but many (most) shadetree mechanics won't have that.

I saw more cranks ruined due to insufficient torque back then. I'm glad to see them gone.
Good point. The Suguino Autex I installed on my Co-Motion S&S travel bike did indeed require a 6 mm Allen key and a standard L-wrench was nowhere near enough to install the crank arms adequately. I carried a length of 1/8" pipe in my travel tool kit as a "cheater" to give me enough leverage to install the cranks tight enough.
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Old 10-11-11, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
This system should have become the norm on square taper cranks... oh well, too late now
I like them and have them on 4 of my bikes, 2 Campagnolo, 1 Shimano and 1 after market.
They are still avaible, I bought a pair this year from a german bikeshop, this one works with a 8 mm allen key.
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