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Tool time

Old 10-09-11, 03:35 PM
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ka0use
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Tool time

there really oughta bea forum just for tool junkies. hmpf.
anyway, i was going to clean my chain and the master link would not dis-engage.

dude.

i fussed 'n' fussed with it for most of a half hour; i used most of my plier-type tools on it. needle nose, bent needle nose, huge needle nose, ring, large pin spanner. nothing worked and i came close to pinching the holy mackerel out of myself pretty bad a few times.

so, i thought i'd go ahead and ruin the link by using a chain tool (topeak, not that that is relevant. just thought the junkies'd like it!) on it.

can we all guess what happened? the drive pin on the tool broke. i'm guessing the link pins are welded to the side pieces.

went to an lbs to get the park tool master link pliers- only now i don't need them, but i DO need a new chain tool. had to think on it. prices have gone up in the 8 years since i bought it. i bought the pliers anyway- every junkie needs his/her fix. they are very nice. and the shop hadn't much of a selection, except when the chain tool was incorporated into a multi-tool.

still scoping for a new chain tool. and i bought 4 new master links, just in case.

.guess i'll never be a wrench; a WRETCH, maybe, but not a wrench
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Old 10-09-11, 05:37 PM
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I've had good luck opening SRAM master links with my fingers but had to get one of those Park tools to open KMC master links. Nice tool, if you need it.
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Old 10-09-11, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JanMM View Post
I've had good luck opening SRAM master links with my fingers
+1

I used to use pliers but now that I know how the SRAM links open I think it can actually be easier to just do it by hand. By putting the chain in a Z shape and pushing the link together I can usually break it with not too much fiddling.
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Old 10-09-11, 05:54 PM
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You'll eventually need a new chain tool, such as when you need to shorten a new chain. You can get pretty fancy with chain tools.

This one strikes my fancy: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...hain+Tool.aspx

But this is what I have in my tool box: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ain+Brute.aspx This works fine for me - I may use it a few times a year, but I wish it had a longer handle for more leverage, but then this one could be carried in a seat bag.
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Old 10-09-11, 05:56 PM
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i had a thought (ask me if it hurt)-

the chain is kmc, but i think i put an sram master link on it. i remember i had a heckuva time
getting it to lock. had to pull reeeeeeeeallll hard. practically hand to stand on one end. it still swivelled like it should.

???

Last edited by ka0use; 10-09-11 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 10-09-11, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MudPie View Post
You'll eventually need a new chain tool, such as when you need to shorten a new chain. You can get pretty fancy with chain tools.

This one strikes my fancy: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...hain+Tool.aspx

But this is what I have in my tool box: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ain+Brute.aspx This works fine for me - I may use it a few times a year, but I wish it had a longer handle for more leverage, but then this one could be carried in a seat bag.
park ct-5 : oooooooo, nice. and the price isn't a backbreaker. my topeak had a longer handle and i did like that.

didja ever notice advertising adjectives? perfect for.....ideal for.... fantastic for...

what is wrong with the truth (assuming the object in question is reasonably well made)? sturdy, hardy, well built, built to last, will last YOUR lifetime, your great grand kids will be using it...
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Old 10-09-11, 06:12 PM
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What spd chain? There *could* be compatibility issue with mixing brands, but since it functions okay, it's probably okay.

SRAM 8- and 9- spd Powerlinks engage easily with a slight pull.

SRAM 10-spd PowerLOCK masterlinks are hard to engage; SRAM recommends placing the masterlink on the top run of the chain, place the bike on the ground, grab the brakes, and step on the pedal (at 3:00 position) to lock it.

BTW - I used to be an exclusively SRAM chain user for the past 10 years, but recently switched to KMC. Time will tell if KMC works for me, but I have over 1000 miles on the chain (X10-SL) with no issues.
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Old 10-09-11, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ka0use View Post
park ct-5 : oooooooo, nice. and the price isn't a backbreaker. my topeak had a longer handle and i did like that.

what is wrong with the truth (assuming the object in question is reasonably well made)? sturdy, hardy, well built, built to last, will last YOUR lifetime, your great grand kids will be using it...
CT-5 works fine and it is well made, good solid feel. I do use a rag in my palm when I hold the body of the tool in my hand - the loop isn't the most comfortable. I don't carry mine on the road, but I could see a tourer carrying it along. I rely on the one in my multitool (but haven't had to deploy it yet).

Marketers love their terms, but the lawyers temper their enthusiasm.
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Old 10-09-11, 06:26 PM
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Here's a plier type of chain tool ($100+)- relies on leverage and not the advantage of a screw: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-P.../dp/B004YJ33H0

Probably good for production work, but be cool to hang off your tool peg board.
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Old 10-09-11, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MudPie View Post
You'll eventually need a new chain tool, such as when you need to shorten a new chain. You can get pretty fancy with chain tools.

This one strikes my fancy: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...hain+Tool.aspx

But this is what I have in my tool box: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ain+Brute.aspx This works fine for me - I may use it a few times a year, but I wish it had a longer handle for more leverage, but then this one could be carried in a seat bag.
about as fancy as they come
http://www.bikepartsexpress.com/mm5/...content=TL4611
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Old 10-09-11, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MudPie View Post
Here's a plier type of chain tool ($100+)- relies on leverage and not the advantage of a screw: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-P.../dp/B004YJ33H0

Probably good for production work, but be cool to hang off your tool peg board.
It doesn't work all that well either. For a nonscrew chain tool, the Park CT-2


works much better. I've been using one for 15+ years.
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Old 10-09-11, 10:11 PM
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I'm not a tool junkie even though I have classic cars and older bikes I dink with. I just buy whatever tool I need when I need it, so I don't a bunch of worthless or rarely ever used tools. I don't mind buying Park tools, but sometimes a specialty tool like the BRT Rim Saver is needed.
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Old 10-10-11, 07:31 AM
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Here's a good solution to your problem No new tools required

http://www.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/201107050.pdf
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Old 10-10-11, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mikezs View Post
Here's a good solution to your problem No new tools required

http://www.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/201107050.pdf
Thanks for that tip
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Old 10-10-11, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mikezs View Post
Here's a good solution to your problem No new tools required

http://www.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/201107050.pdf
What I want to know is why that guy's hand is so clean while he's manipulating the chain like that!
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Old 10-10-11, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
What I want to know is why that guy's hand is so clean while he's manipulating the chain like that!
Don't you know? good mechanics never get their hands dirty!
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Old 10-12-11, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mikezs View Post
Here's a good solution to your problem No new tools required

http://www.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/201107050.pdf
oh, i LOVE it! thanks so much! (but i'll still keep the tool!)
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Old 10-12-11, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mikezs View Post
Here's a good solution to your problem No new tools required

http://www.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/201107050.pdf
A rock is a tool
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Old 10-12-11, 09:54 AM
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Best tool in the world is your head...so make sure you wear a helmet.
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Old 10-12-11, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
Best tool in the world is your head...so make sure you wear a helmet.
Are you calling me a tool ?? (which I might be from time to time)
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Old 10-13-11, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata View Post
Best tool in the world is your head...so make sure you wear a helmet.
You could probably heat-butt the link apart is there are no rocks around. Good suggestion
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Old 10-13-11, 03:01 AM
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How much easier is it to open the SRAM Powerlinks than the SRAM Snap-Lock links that come with the PC1 Nickel chains like I use on my fixie?

I'm just curious as you guys here seem to deal with the Powerlink fairly swiftly whereas it takes a good bit of force to open the Snap-Lock, not to mention a few skinned knuckles. Maybe I just haven't got the hang of it yet, in which case I'd like to know!
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Old 10-13-11, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Gaunt View Post
How much easier is it to open the SRAM Powerlinks than the SRAM Snap-Lock links that come with the PC1 Nickel chains like I use on my fixie?

I'm just curious as you guys here seem to deal with the Powerlink fairly swiftly whereas it takes a good bit of force to open the Snap-Lock, not to mention a few skinned knuckles. Maybe I just haven't got the hang of it yet, in which case I'd like to know!
They should just pop off when you bend the chain inwards towards the link...
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Old 10-13-11, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mikezs View Post
They should just pop off when you bend the chain inwards towards the link...
I know, but it seems to take an awful lot of bending before the pop comes. Is that ok for the chain?
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Old 10-13-11, 06:13 AM
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Been using those links since they came out in the market back in the 90s and i have never had to use anything but my hands to take them out pretty clean. Legos are on sale right now just in case
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