1988 Bianchi... Where do I start?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Nederland, Texas
Posts: 1,441
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Sectuer, 1988 Bianchi
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
1988 Bianchi... Where do I start?
I have a 1988 Bianchi, I would like to upgrade. Where do I start? I would like to put new wheels and brakes.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 453 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
87 Posts
Just saying a 1988 Bianchi is a little vague. For any suggestions we need to know the current specs of your bike, and what sort of budget you have.
With the info given and no budget set, if you have a 130mm OLD rear hub, would look at Campagnolo Super Record Skeleton brakes, and Reynold RZR wheels.
With the info given and no budget set, if you have a 130mm OLD rear hub, would look at Campagnolo Super Record Skeleton brakes, and Reynold RZR wheels.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 155
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Velobase has the 1987 Bianchi catalog online: https://velobase.com/Resource_Tools/CatalogScans.aspx
That might help you figure out what you've got, if decals are missing or something like that.
That might help you figure out what you've got, if decals are missing or something like that.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Nederland, Texas
Posts: 1,441
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Sectuer, 1988 Bianchi
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Just saying a 1988 Bianchi is a little vague. For any suggestions we need to know the current specs of your bike, and what sort of budget you have.
With the info given and no budget set, if you have a 130mm OLD rear hub, would look at Campagnolo Super Record Skeleton brakes, and Reynold RZR wheels.
With the info given and no budget set, if you have a 130mm OLD rear hub, would look at Campagnolo Super Record Skeleton brakes, and Reynold RZR wheels.
My budget? I would like to keep it conservative and minimal. It dosen't have to be flashy, just functional.
#6
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
Lots of information and experience on upgrading older bikes in C&V. (Classic & Vintage)
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...pdate+ergo+sti
With 700 wheels brakes shouldn't be a big deal. Some things you'll have to know about are brake reach, nutted or recessed nuts, compatibility of lever pull. Wheels are a bit more complicated. You'll need to know the OLD (over lock nut distance). That bike may be 126mm or 130mm. Steel frames can be spread to accomodate "modern" 130mm 7 speed rear and up.Depending on your needs going up in speeds in rear could require different shifters, deraillers etc. Decide what exactly it is you want to accomplish, then you can look at what it will cost.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...pdate+ergo+sti
With 700 wheels brakes shouldn't be a big deal. Some things you'll have to know about are brake reach, nutted or recessed nuts, compatibility of lever pull. Wheels are a bit more complicated. You'll need to know the OLD (over lock nut distance). That bike may be 126mm or 130mm. Steel frames can be spread to accomodate "modern" 130mm 7 speed rear and up.Depending on your needs going up in speeds in rear could require different shifters, deraillers etc. Decide what exactly it is you want to accomplish, then you can look at what it will cost.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Nederland, Texas
Posts: 1,441
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Sectuer, 1988 Bianchi
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Thanks for the replies... The bike really is a gem. Brother-in-law gave it to me after it sat in his garage for 20 years. It hasn't been ridden much at all.
#8
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,837
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 805 Post(s)
Liked 704 Times
in
376 Posts
It probably needs a good lube & tune, and some stuff just goes bad over time. In particular, rubber parts (tires, tubes, and brake shoes) harden and become unusable unless very carefully preserved. Everything else would benefit greatly from disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly with new grease or oil. No need to upgrade, unless something is completely worn out and requires replacement.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#9
Banned
Yea, given as you say it sat around mostly, probably needs an overhaul renewal,
.. re grease bearings , new cables, housing Brake blocks , tires ,
maybe a different stem if its not a good fit, re-tape the bars,
and just ride it ..
if you get better cables , the existing brakes can work better ..
Un smashed, keep the wheels , just get new tires on them.
.. re grease bearings , new cables, housing Brake blocks , tires ,
maybe a different stem if its not a good fit, re-tape the bars,
and just ride it ..
if you get better cables , the existing brakes can work better ..
Un smashed, keep the wheels , just get new tires on them.
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-24-11 at 09:20 AM.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 69
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have a racing bike from 1986 which a friend was throwing out (Shimano 105 components). It needed fully disassembling and a lot of cleaning - particularly the brakes and derailleurs - but it's now a very nice bike and I didn't need to spend much on new parts.
I replaced:
The rubber brake-lever covers had gone irredeemably sticky, so I removed them and put an extra wrap of bar-tape around the exposed metal.
I also replaced the wheels because the rims were bent and several spokes were broken. However the hubs were ok, and I could have replaced just the rims and spokes.
If you have the time I'd suggest stripping down the bike, cleaning each component and seeing if it needs replacing. Sheldon Brown's website will tell you everything you need to know. It's easy to do and worth doing yourself, or you can end up spending a lot of money at the LBS.
I replaced:
- Brake pads
- Handlebar tape
- Tyres and inner-tubes
- Pedals (the plastic toe-clips had snapped and could not be replaced)
- Saddle (the old one was ok, but heavy and uncomfortable)
The rubber brake-lever covers had gone irredeemably sticky, so I removed them and put an extra wrap of bar-tape around the exposed metal.
I also replaced the wheels because the rims were bent and several spokes were broken. However the hubs were ok, and I could have replaced just the rims and spokes.
If you have the time I'd suggest stripping down the bike, cleaning each component and seeing if it needs replacing. Sheldon Brown's website will tell you everything you need to know. It's easy to do and worth doing yourself, or you can end up spending a lot of money at the LBS.
#12
Cat 6
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Mountain Brook, AL
Posts: 7,482
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 183 Times
in
118 Posts
You'll be better off riding the bike as-is, [but relube everything], than by trying to "upgrade". Buy some $50ea tires first and some new brake shoes.
Wheels would be a place to start, but you have 6s index DT shifters and a 126mm OLD rear. Anything you purchase today that will be an "upgrade" will be 8 to 10 speed (or 11) compatible and 130mm OLD. So now unless you want to go friction you now have to buy new shifters, and a new cassette, as well.
If you really want a modern bike, it will be cheaper to sell what you have and buy someone else's. There are plenty of modern bikes that also get ridden 5 times and put up in the garage.
Wheels would be a place to start, but you have 6s index DT shifters and a 126mm OLD rear. Anything you purchase today that will be an "upgrade" will be 8 to 10 speed (or 11) compatible and 130mm OLD. So now unless you want to go friction you now have to buy new shifters, and a new cassette, as well.
If you really want a modern bike, it will be cheaper to sell what you have and buy someone else's. There are plenty of modern bikes that also get ridden 5 times and put up in the garage.
__________________
72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
#13
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
You'll be better off riding the bike as-is, [but relube everything], than by trying to "upgrade". Buy some $50ea tires first and some new brake shoes.
Wheels would be a place to start, but you have 6s index DT shifters and a 126mm OLD rear. Anything you purchase today that will be an "upgrade" will be 8 to 10 speed (or 11) compatible and 130mm OLD. So now unless you want to go friction you now have to buy new shifters, and a new cassette, as well.
If you really want a modern bike, it will be cheaper to sell what you have and buy someone else's. There are plenty of modern bikes that also get ridden 5 times and put up in the garage.
Wheels would be a place to start, but you have 6s index DT shifters and a 126mm OLD rear. Anything you purchase today that will be an "upgrade" will be 8 to 10 speed (or 11) compatible and 130mm OLD. So now unless you want to go friction you now have to buy new shifters, and a new cassette, as well.
If you really want a modern bike, it will be cheaper to sell what you have and buy someone else's. There are plenty of modern bikes that also get ridden 5 times and put up in the garage.
Unless you have a more specific goal for the bike, just tune it up & ride it.
If there's something wrong with it, give some pictures and explain as well as you can, and there will be plenty of people willing to help.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#15
incazzare.
Why upgrade? Is there something wrong? If the tires and pads are worn, I'd switch them out. Cables too, if they're worn. Check the chain out. The only non-wear item I'd "upgrade" right away is the saddle, if you have something else you prefer. Otherwise, tune & ride!
__________________
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
#16
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times
in
1,579 Posts
+1 for new rubber and grease. Everything else should be serviceable.
__________________
RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 10-24-11 at 01:31 PM.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 155
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If it has Shimano 105 or 600 brakes and levers from that era, put new pads on and keep them. They outperform most modern dual-pivot calipers (in my experience), without the various disadvantages of dual-pivots (like short reach and asymmetrical pad wear effects). I also really like the aero brake levers from that era.
If they are lower-end Dia-Compe units and they don't brake effectively after replacing pads and cables (I find some of them are a bit flexy), consider getting a cheapish Tektro caliper with more mechanical advantage to replace the old front one.
The above sentiments about not upgrading before you try to get everything fixed up are wise. Six cogs are plenty.
If they are lower-end Dia-Compe units and they don't brake effectively after replacing pads and cables (I find some of them are a bit flexy), consider getting a cheapish Tektro caliper with more mechanical advantage to replace the old front one.
The above sentiments about not upgrading before you try to get everything fixed up are wise. Six cogs are plenty.