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1988 Bianchi... Where do I start?

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Old 10-23-11, 03:12 PM
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1988 Bianchi... Where do I start?

I have a 1988 Bianchi, I would like to upgrade. Where do I start? I would like to put new wheels and brakes.
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Old 10-23-11, 05:15 PM
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Just saying a 1988 Bianchi is a little vague. For any suggestions we need to know the current specs of your bike, and what sort of budget you have.

With the info given and no budget set, if you have a 130mm OLD rear hub, would look at Campagnolo Super Record Skeleton brakes, and Reynold RZR wheels.
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Old 10-23-11, 06:03 PM
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Velobase has the 1987 Bianchi catalog online: https://velobase.com/Resource_Tools/CatalogScans.aspx

That might help you figure out what you've got, if decals are missing or something like that.
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Old 10-23-11, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jimc101
Just saying a 1988 Bianchi is a little vague. For any suggestions we need to know the current specs of your bike, and what sort of budget you have.

With the info given and no budget set, if you have a 130mm OLD rear hub, would look at Campagnolo Super Record Skeleton brakes, and Reynold RZR wheels.
Forgive me, but I know nothing about bike terminology or specs. The wheels are 700c. The rear casssette has six rings. I'm probably going to have to bring it to the LBS as I don't have the skill or the time to tackle a build like this. But, I would like to know a little bit about what I'm talking aboout when I go into the LBS. So, any knowledge you can send my way would be greatly appreciated.
My budget? I would like to keep it conservative and minimal. It dosen't have to be flashy, just functional.
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Old 10-23-11, 07:08 PM
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Before putting on a whole new brakeset you might want to just check to see if all you need is new brake pads and/or cables/housing
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Old 10-23-11, 07:36 PM
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Lots of information and experience on upgrading older bikes in C&V. (Classic & Vintage)
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...pdate+ergo+sti

With 700 wheels brakes shouldn't be a big deal. Some things you'll have to know about are brake reach, nutted or recessed nuts, compatibility of lever pull. Wheels are a bit more complicated. You'll need to know the OLD (over lock nut distance). That bike may be 126mm or 130mm. Steel frames can be spread to accomodate "modern" 130mm 7 speed rear and up.Depending on your needs going up in speeds in rear could require different shifters, deraillers etc. Decide what exactly it is you want to accomplish, then you can look at what it will cost.
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Old 10-23-11, 08:07 PM
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Thanks for the replies... The bike really is a gem. Brother-in-law gave it to me after it sat in his garage for 20 years. It hasn't been ridden much at all.
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Old 10-23-11, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by teachme
Thanks for the replies... The bike really is a gem. Brother-in-law gave it to me after it sat in his garage for 20 years. It hasn't been ridden much at all.
It probably needs a good lube & tune, and some stuff just goes bad over time. In particular, rubber parts (tires, tubes, and brake shoes) harden and become unusable unless very carefully preserved. Everything else would benefit greatly from disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly with new grease or oil. No need to upgrade, unless something is completely worn out and requires replacement.
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Old 10-23-11, 10:47 PM
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Yea, given as you say it sat around mostly, probably needs an overhaul renewal,
.. re grease bearings , new cables, housing Brake blocks , tires ,
maybe a different stem if its not a good fit, re-tape the bars,

and just ride it ..
if you get better cables , the existing brakes can work better ..
Un smashed, keep the wheels , just get new tires on them.

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-24-11 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 10-23-11, 11:38 PM
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If you want new wheels and brakes, I'd say get new wheels and brakes.
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Old 10-24-11, 06:30 AM
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I have a racing bike from 1986 which a friend was throwing out (Shimano 105 components). It needed fully disassembling and a lot of cleaning - particularly the brakes and derailleurs - but it's now a very nice bike and I didn't need to spend much on new parts.

I replaced:
  • Brake pads
  • Handlebar tape
  • Tyres and inner-tubes
  • Pedals (the plastic toe-clips had snapped and could not be replaced)
  • Saddle (the old one was ok, but heavy and uncomfortable)

The rubber brake-lever covers had gone irredeemably sticky, so I removed them and put an extra wrap of bar-tape around the exposed metal.

I also replaced the wheels because the rims were bent and several spokes were broken. However the hubs were ok, and I could have replaced just the rims and spokes.

If you have the time I'd suggest stripping down the bike, cleaning each component and seeing if it needs replacing. Sheldon Brown's website will tell you everything you need to know. It's easy to do and worth doing yourself, or you can end up spending a lot of money at the LBS.
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Old 10-24-11, 07:38 AM
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You'll be better off riding the bike as-is, [but relube everything], than by trying to "upgrade". Buy some $50ea tires first and some new brake shoes.

Wheels would be a place to start, but you have 6s index DT shifters and a 126mm OLD rear. Anything you purchase today that will be an "upgrade" will be 8 to 10 speed (or 11) compatible and 130mm OLD. So now unless you want to go friction you now have to buy new shifters, and a new cassette, as well.

If you really want a modern bike, it will be cheaper to sell what you have and buy someone else's. There are plenty of modern bikes that also get ridden 5 times and put up in the garage.
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Old 10-24-11, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres
You'll be better off riding the bike as-is, [but relube everything], than by trying to "upgrade". Buy some $50ea tires first and some new brake shoes.

Wheels would be a place to start, but you have 6s index DT shifters and a 126mm OLD rear. Anything you purchase today that will be an "upgrade" will be 8 to 10 speed (or 11) compatible and 130mm OLD. So now unless you want to go friction you now have to buy new shifters, and a new cassette, as well.

If you really want a modern bike, it will be cheaper to sell what you have and buy someone else's. There are plenty of modern bikes that also get ridden 5 times and put up in the garage.
This

Unless you have a more specific goal for the bike, just tune it up & ride it.
If there's something wrong with it, give some pictures and explain as well as you can, and there will be plenty of people willing to help.
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Old 10-24-11, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
This

Unless you have a more specific goal for the bike, just tune it up & ride it.
If there's something wrong with it, give some pictures and explain as well as you can, and there will be plenty of people willing to help.
Yes, a good tune-up is definitely the answer. Thanks everyone!!
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Old 10-24-11, 12:40 PM
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Why upgrade? Is there something wrong? If the tires and pads are worn, I'd switch them out. Cables too, if they're worn. Check the chain out. The only non-wear item I'd "upgrade" right away is the saddle, if you have something else you prefer. Otherwise, tune & ride!
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Old 10-24-11, 01:04 PM
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+1 for new rubber and grease. Everything else should be serviceable.
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Old 10-24-11, 04:43 PM
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If it has Shimano 105 or 600 brakes and levers from that era, put new pads on and keep them. They outperform most modern dual-pivot calipers (in my experience), without the various disadvantages of dual-pivots (like short reach and asymmetrical pad wear effects). I also really like the aero brake levers from that era.

If they are lower-end Dia-Compe units and they don't brake effectively after replacing pads and cables (I find some of them are a bit flexy), consider getting a cheapish Tektro caliper with more mechanical advantage to replace the old front one.

The above sentiments about not upgrading before you try to get everything fixed up are wise. Six cogs are plenty.
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