How to keep a shiny clean drive train
#1
worldtraveller
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How to keep a shiny clean drive train
I just got a new drive train for my road bike. New rear cogs, crankset , chain etc.
I love how shiny and clean new drivetrains area. So nice.
So i like to know what is the secret to keeping it always shiny?
Do you all always have a shiny and clean drive train most of the year as well?
If you do then what is your secret to keeping it looking good and clean?
I love how shiny and clean new drivetrains area. So nice.
So i like to know what is the secret to keeping it always shiny?
Do you all always have a shiny and clean drive train most of the year as well?
If you do then what is your secret to keeping it looking good and clean?
#2
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The answer to all of these questions is to keep your bike inside and don't ride it.
#3
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^^^ 
If you MUST ride the bike then clean the drive train after every ride.

If you MUST ride the bike then clean the drive train after every ride.
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The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
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I've settled on trying to keep the chain and cassette clean (we ride a daVinci tandem, so there's lots of other stuff to leave not-as-clean). For me, the biggest thing has been learning how to keep the hub happy during/after the cleaning process, so I'm still refining my process. I remove the chain (Wipperman chain with quick links) and clean the chain in a pie pan with chain lube (NOT chain cleaner - I don't want to scare away the lube that's inside). I remove the cassette from the freehub, and clean the cogs with a citrus-based degreaser in another pie pan. I remount the wheel and make sure the disc brake is as close to dragging as possible, then reattach the chain.
#5
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I used the hot parafin waxing method for chain lube in the past and it did indeed keep the drivetrain shiny and clean. What it didn't do was last more than a couple of rides and provided no wet weather protection.
I've since concluded keeping the drivetrain shiny and clean was more trouble than it's worth. I keep the chain well lubed and wipe off the cogs and chainrings occasionally but I don't agonize over its appearance.
BTW, the chain and cassette on my indoor trainer bike do stay shiny and clean.
I've since concluded keeping the drivetrain shiny and clean was more trouble than it's worth. I keep the chain well lubed and wipe off the cogs and chainrings occasionally but I don't agonize over its appearance.
BTW, the chain and cassette on my indoor trainer bike do stay shiny and clean.

#6
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You might try a totally enclosed glass display case in your living room.
#7
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My friends will tell you I'm pretty OCD about my drivetrain. I clean my DT about every 150 miles. Some of the things I do are:
1. Wrap a paper towel around chain and pedal backwards to remove loose gunk - I refold the towel repeatedly and run the chain through the towel about 8 times.
2. Then I soak a small(3"x5")sponge with White Lightening, then wrap the sponge around around chain and back-pedal, turn sponge 90 deg. and repeat - then flip/soak/repeat.
3. Wrap a clean/dry paper towel around chain and back pedal, refolding/repeating until no more gunk comes off.
4. While chain continues drying, I fold a paper towel twice - the slide it between cogs and back-pedal, being sure get all the way down to the spacer. I repeat this for each cog gap.
5. I finish drying the chain by running a pipe cleaner between the side plates of each link - as well as the crevices between the inner and outer plates.
6. Then apply my favorite lube, yep - one drip per roller.
7. I then apply a small amount of lube to a clean towel, wrap around chain and back-pedal a few times. You will be amazed how much more gunk comes off at this step.
8. Wait two hours - wipe off excess lube with another clean towel, finish cleaning cogs - as well as wiping down the chain rings. If I'm feeling extra anal - I'll remove rings and clean between steps 5 & 6.
Let dry overnight. Since dirt will continue to be forced out - I'll wipe chain down after the next couple of rides.
Is it overkill? Clearly. But I like a shiny drivetrain - and my chains last 8 - 10,000 miles.
1. Wrap a paper towel around chain and pedal backwards to remove loose gunk - I refold the towel repeatedly and run the chain through the towel about 8 times.
2. Then I soak a small(3"x5")sponge with White Lightening, then wrap the sponge around around chain and back-pedal, turn sponge 90 deg. and repeat - then flip/soak/repeat.
3. Wrap a clean/dry paper towel around chain and back pedal, refolding/repeating until no more gunk comes off.
4. While chain continues drying, I fold a paper towel twice - the slide it between cogs and back-pedal, being sure get all the way down to the spacer. I repeat this for each cog gap.
5. I finish drying the chain by running a pipe cleaner between the side plates of each link - as well as the crevices between the inner and outer plates.
6. Then apply my favorite lube, yep - one drip per roller.
7. I then apply a small amount of lube to a clean towel, wrap around chain and back-pedal a few times. You will be amazed how much more gunk comes off at this step.
8. Wait two hours - wipe off excess lube with another clean towel, finish cleaning cogs - as well as wiping down the chain rings. If I'm feeling extra anal - I'll remove rings and clean between steps 5 & 6.
Let dry overnight. Since dirt will continue to be forced out - I'll wipe chain down after the next couple of rides.
Is it overkill? Clearly. But I like a shiny drivetrain - and my chains last 8 - 10,000 miles.
#8
Banned
If you MUST ride the bike then clean the drive train after every ride
Otherwise .. invest a couple grand+ and
get one of those Gates belt drive IG hub bikes.
#9
incazzare.
Get a full chaincase for it! Then if it gets dirty you can't see it anyway. Only adds a pound or so to your roadbike.

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#10
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+

Lube, wipe, ride, repeat.
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This is what I've learnt about clean drivetrains in many years of cycling experience. (1)Your chain is gonna get dirty, regardless of how anal-retentive you are about it. (2) Obsessive cleaning is not good, in that it forces most of the lube out of the space in-between your rollers, which does shorten chain life. (3) Use the appropriate kind of lube for the conditions you ride in. I ride in SoCal and I use Boeshield T9 and ProLink exclusively. I prefer the T9, but I still have an ample supply of Prolink on hand, so I still use it. (5) Wiping down your chain post-ride helps a lot in keeping your drivetrain relatively clean.
And finally, chains are consumables, so no sense in obsessing over it. I have been known to buy three of four chains at a time, if the price is exceptionally good, since the certain sure things in life are taxes, death, and if you are a cyclist, bicycle chains.
Just my two cents!
And finally, chains are consumables, so no sense in obsessing over it. I have been known to buy three of four chains at a time, if the price is exceptionally good, since the certain sure things in life are taxes, death, and if you are a cyclist, bicycle chains.
Just my two cents!
#15
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This is what I've learnt about clean drivetrains in many years of cycling experience. (1)Your chain is gonna get dirty, regardless of how anal-retentive you are about it. (2) Obsessive cleaning is not good, in that it forces most of the lube out of the space in-between your rollers, which does shorten chain life. (3) Use the appropriate kind of lube for the conditions you ride in. I ride in SoCal and I use Boeshield T9 and ProLink exclusively. I prefer the T9, but I still have an ample supply of Prolink on hand, so I still use it. (5) Wiping down your chain post-ride helps a lot in keeping your drivetrain relatively clean.
And finally, chains are consumables, so no sense in obsessing over it. I have been known to buy three of four chains at a time, if the price is exceptionally good, since the certain sure things in life are taxes, death, and if you are a cyclist, bicycle chains.
Just my two cents!
And finally, chains are consumables, so no sense in obsessing over it. I have been known to buy three of four chains at a time, if the price is exceptionally good, since the certain sure things in life are taxes, death, and if you are a cyclist, bicycle chains.
Just my two cents!
Which means it will be ignored by the BF hoi polloi.
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#17
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+1 to what Jed said.
It's best to keep it clean enough. You'll also vastly decrease the amount of solvent you're exposed to.
It's best to keep it clean enough. You'll also vastly decrease the amount of solvent you're exposed to.
#18
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It's easy.
1) Remove all grease, oil and lube from all components. These attract dirt.
2) Polish all components to a high gloss.
3) Hang securely on your living room wall. Your wife will appreciate you new interest in decorating.
4) With all lube removed, a light dusting or vacuuming will keep it all nice and shiny.
1) Remove all grease, oil and lube from all components. These attract dirt.
2) Polish all components to a high gloss.
3) Hang securely on your living room wall. Your wife will appreciate you new interest in decorating.
4) With all lube removed, a light dusting or vacuuming will keep it all nice and shiny.
#20
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#21
Senior Member
Hold back on the degreaser when you do this - you don't need to remove your lube along with the big pieces of road grit. If the chain is wet from a rain-ride, the water will take a bunch of dirt with it.
#22
Senior Member
I just got a new drive train for my road bike. New rear cogs, crankset , chain etc.
I love how shiny and clean new drivetrains area. So nice.
So i like to know what is the secret to keeping it always shiny?
Do you all always have a shiny and clean drive train most of the year as well?
If you do then what is your secret to keeping it looking good and clean?
I love how shiny and clean new drivetrains area. So nice.
So i like to know what is the secret to keeping it always shiny?
Do you all always have a shiny and clean drive train most of the year as well?
If you do then what is your secret to keeping it looking good and clean?
What you ask requires cleaning the bike and drive train and storing it in the living room in a show case.
The black stuff on the chain is wear particles mixed with oil that is forced out in use. After I clean my chain in an ultrasonic cleaner I lube and wipe down the chain. After the first ride I may wipe it down again.
When it rains and gets the bike dirty I rinse it off. If it's time to do the chain then I wash it with Dawn and wipe the bike down with Pledge to make it shine and easier to clean the next time.
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Don't over lube your chain. Floss the cassette with the edge of a towel after every ride. Lightly wipe the chain and pulleys after every ride. Clean the chain rings after 2-3 rides. Full clean/lube the chain every 100-150 miles. bk
I spend about 20 minutes on maintenance & cleaning after every ride. It's quick and easy.
I spend about 20 minutes on maintenance & cleaning after every ride. It's quick and easy.
Last edited by bkaapcke; 11-02-11 at 04:09 PM.
#24
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I've often thought that if I were to mix some mineral spirits and good thick bodied oil together and religiously after EVERY ride dribble some on and then wipe/blot away the majority of the oil and solvent with repeatedly folded over paper towels while back pedalling the chain that it would both clean and lube the chain. I'd never actually have to actually clean it as a separate exercise ever again.
I've never found myself so OCD as to bother trying it though.
#25
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Old T-shirts make wonderful cleaning rags. You can get them for dirt cheap too at yard sales and thrift stores. I sections off them as needed, and also use them as drops.