Beginner question re: servicing rear hub
 

Hi there,

So I did something dumb earlier today. I've been trying to fix up an old 1970's Raleigh Sprite I recently bought. The rear wheel wasn't spinning very well so I figured why not spray a bunch of WD-40 into the oil port in order to loosen up whatever gunk was in there. This of course didn't solve the issue and now while the wheel spins slightly better it makes loud metallic noises which I assume are the bearings rattling after the grease was flushed out.

Is there any way for me to fix this without taking apart the hub? I don't think I have the right tools for the job. Would I only need to buy an appropriate sized freewhell remover? If so, what size would I need to get?

Thanks for the help.

Freewheel removers don't have a "size". They are based on brand. Suntour, Shimano, Regina, Maillard .... and then there are variations within brands.
Sometimes it's possible to overhaul hub bearings without removing the freewheel. Inconvenient, but possible.

um no
WD-40 is not for lubricating it was designed to keep WOOD that gets wet Dimensional (WOOD DIMENSIONAL) "WD" such as in the building of a boat frame I use it as a cleaner but NEVER a lubrication.
Hubs are easy to take apart just have a lot of space and newspaper down and keep track of all parts in order
See this informational site: Park tools

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...reehub-service

Freewheels removers are specific to brand so you need the correct one for the correct freewheel brand...


find a really junked out hub and take it apart to get the experience I just did two this evening

You will need at least one cone wrench and new grease. I like "Lifu" wrenches, for about $6 shipped from eBay. Cones usually are 13-16mm and too narrow for standard wrenches. I also use the cheap Valvoline automotive grease from the auto parts store and have had no problems after using it in several hubs and bottom brackets. There is a plethora of tutorials and videos you can search for, it's a simple job.

um no. WD-40 is called WD-40 because it is the 40th attempt at making something to displace water. WD as in WATER DISPLACEMENT. The 40 stands for the 40th formula of something to displace water. Don't talk about something unless you know you are right.

yeah that's it displacement not dimensional a simple error alliteration oops... interesting you did not disagree with my hub servicing information which is what this thread was about. Nor did you disagree with it's uselessness as a lubricant for hubs.

Sorry. Got off on a tangent about petty details. But yeah, it is useless on a bike. WD-40 should not come close to a bike. Real lubricant and/or grease should be used.

The cheapest/fastest solution if you are not going to continue working on bikes is to purchase a new Wheelmaster wheel and Sunrace freewheel off Amazon.

For grease; I like boat trailer wheel bearing grease, as it is highly resistant to water, lasts forever and is inexpensive.

WD 40 has it's place on a bike, like rusty adjusting screws and cables ? Anything with real loads applied though, I agree heavier duty lubricants and grease are the only solutions.

Fuji86!
WD 40 is not lubricant it is for wood not steel... see AlphaDogg explanation above so it is not a light lubricant...
Triflo is lubricant good for all occasion when its dry out wipe off the excess when its wet out leave it on. PHILL wood grease is Marine grease (boat trailer bearing grease). I am kinda a maintenance nut so lubricating is something I always think about especially being a Clydesdale... keep it lubed

I still use white lithium grease when I get a new used bike... just to clean out the parts then I degrease with brake cleaner and regrease with Green grease (marine, boat bearing, Phil woods" etc) Not to be done inside and not for the faint of heart brake cleaner will melt your plastic and ruin your paint...

I realize this doesn't relate to the original post, but I just have to clear up some blatant errors.

What's your hang up with wood? Seriously... Maybe it can be used for wood, but that's not its only use. WD = water displacement. Wood dimensional? Wood displacement? Neither make any sense. And it does contain a very light lubricant, but is obviously not a replacement for grease or oil.

"WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement – 40th Attempt". Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion in nuclear missiles, by displacing the standing water that causes it. He claims he arrived at a successful formula on his 40th attempt. WD-40 is primarily composed of various hydrocarbons.

WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion. The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958."

This is not a relevant link. OP has a thread-on freewheel, not a cassette freehub. In any case, the link is about freehub service, not a hub bearing overhaul.

The freewheel can be removed with the appropriate tool (of which there are many different types - go to a bike shop and get the correct one) and then the hubs can be overhauled. See: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html

Geez... you'd think people could answer your question without heading off on tangents. (Oh, wait... this is the Internet.)

The answer is: NO. You can't address this properly without disassembling the hub. As above, you need the correct freewheel remover and the appropriately sized cone wrenches to do the adjustment. Also, a bench vise makes removing the freewheel a little easier. After all, the freewheel's probably been there for nearly 40 years. It won't come off without a fight.

It's not rocket surgery, but it helps to have experienced help. Do you have a bike co-op near you that might help you gain experience?

And what kind of cheese do you like?

Better page for freewheel hubs: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...and-adjustment

Will need to remember that the WD in WD40 stands for Wood Displacement when I tell them that it should never be used as a chain lubricant and that it is also useless for hubs.

i like the way wd40 smells :-)

You can actually repack a hub without removing the freewheel. Loosen the locknut from the cone on the NDS, remove both from axle. Pull axle. Commence to cleaning cones and races.

Even with small fingers it's a little difficult to fully clean the race on the freewheel side but it can be done. Flush the bearing race with WD-40, since you have some on hand, wrap a square of old T-shirt over your pinky and wipe around in there, repeat as needed.

If you don't mind taking the time to pick up a freewheel remover that makes it easier, however.

WD-40 on wood, eh? Very interesting.

To the OP: is it a freewheel or an IG hub? Your post is confusing; you say "freewheel", but you also mention an oil port. Not that WD-40 is right for either one....

Many old hubs had oil ports, not just IGHs. I have an old Dura Ace front hub that has an oil port. Check out this catalog: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano1973/pages/da7.html

Some sprites were 3 speeders-if so-use some motor oil in there :)

Sprites came with both IG and derailleur drivetrains: http://sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/sprite.html

I was just trying to clarify an ambiguous situation.

Nothing a few pictures wouldn't clear up.

Me too! It's kinda sweet-smelling.

I'll bet on this one. The only Sprites I ever saw were Sturmey Archer 3 speeds. The "oil port" gives this one away.

WD stands for water displacement. It leaves behind a light lube that is suitable but not great for a chain.