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Originally Posted by RollCNY
(Post 13524993)
Difficulty in getting the rd to shift into biggest gears, and issue with backpedaling issues really suggest bent RD hanger. On a new bike, that is not super uncommon. They have been shipped, and stored, and handled, and that never really gets checked in assembly.
Best means to check it is the tool that bolts into the hanger, and then measures the distance to the wheel as you swing it. You can make one yourself with any solid bar and a drill press. |
Originally Posted by jack002
(Post 13526498)
I just look at the RD from behind and judge the angle of the pulley wheels to the cassette. Is that not precise enough?
I assume you can find a straight edge and small ruler easily enough. A friend would also be handy but you can do the job solo if you don't have one. |
Originally Posted by jack002
(Post 13526498)
I just look at the RD from behind and judge the angle of the pulley wheels to the cassette. Is that not precise enough?
I'm pretty sure that a rider this past Sunday had a bent hanger, but I heard it more than I saw it. It was only after I could ride behind him for a couple minutes that I could get a good look. It's still hard for me to tell when a bike is on the floor or in a stand, especially if the RD is bent just enough to add noise or shift funkiness but not so bad that anyone could spot it from across the street. |
I'm by no means an expert, but to me, it is fairly easy to see if it is perpendicular to the ground but harder to see if it is parallel to the wheel to wheel axis. There are two planes at work, and one is easier to see. I think I am explaining it poorly, but if your rear wheel is a clock face, easy to align parallel to the 12 to 6 line but much harder (for me at least) to get the 6 to 9. That's how the tool became invaluable to me.
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