Replacing bearings on WI hub
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Replacing bearings on WI hub
My rear tandem hub needs new bearings.
White Industries lists the bearings as 6902-2RS.
Would these work?
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...e+Bearing.aspx
Is there any preferred brand? I hear Enduro a lot.
The instructions also call for a bearing puller. I found this one:
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ng+Puller.aspx
I assume to press the bearings in you could use a large bolt and washers?
White Industries lists the bearings as 6902-2RS.
Would these work?
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...e+Bearing.aspx
Is there any preferred brand? I hear Enduro a lot.
The instructions also call for a bearing puller. I found this one:
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ng+Puller.aspx
I assume to press the bearings in you could use a large bolt and washers?
Last edited by jnbrown; 12-01-11 at 11:25 PM.
#2
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6902 refers to the size, inner diameter, outer diameter and width. Any bearing with that designation would fit. The 2RS part refers to the type of seals, which is a less critical feature.
For my inline skates, nothing has ever come close to the original SKF bearings. But for bikes I can't really say that I've noticed any other difference apart from "worn", "run in" and "new".
A puller can be handy, but I've usually simply tapped out the bearing from the other side.
Bolt and washer is a so-so technique. Bolt-and-washer will have you pressing sideways on the inner race (to some degree), and these bearings don't really like that kind of load.
Ideally, when installing a bearing (w/o the axle being present), you should seat a bearing by pushing on the outer race only.
Now, a bearing can take a bit of sideways load, so unless it's a really tight fit in the hub, bolt-and-washer may still work out OK.
My favourite improvised bearing press tools are the sockets out of a socket wrench set. There's just about always one in there that'll mate up nicely with the outer race.
For my inline skates, nothing has ever come close to the original SKF bearings. But for bikes I can't really say that I've noticed any other difference apart from "worn", "run in" and "new".
A puller can be handy, but I've usually simply tapped out the bearing from the other side.
Bolt and washer is a so-so technique. Bolt-and-washer will have you pressing sideways on the inner race (to some degree), and these bearings don't really like that kind of load.
Ideally, when installing a bearing (w/o the axle being present), you should seat a bearing by pushing on the outer race only.
Now, a bearing can take a bit of sideways load, so unless it's a really tight fit in the hub, bolt-and-washer may still work out OK.
My favourite improvised bearing press tools are the sockets out of a socket wrench set. There's just about always one in there that'll mate up nicely with the outer race.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
6902 refers to the size, inner diameter, outer diameter and width. Any bearing with that designation would fit. The 2RS part refers to the type of seals, which is a less critical feature.
For my inline skates, nothing has ever come close to the original SKF bearings. But for bikes I can't really say that I've noticed any other difference apart from "worn", "run in" and "new".
A puller can be handy, but I've usually simply tapped out the bearing from the other side.
Bolt and washer is a so-so technique. Bolt-and-washer will have you pressing sideways on the inner race (to some degree), and these bearings don't really like that kind of load.
Ideally, when installing a bearing (w/o the axle being present), you should seat a bearing by pushing on the outer race only.
Now, a bearing can take a bit of sideways load, so unless it's a really tight fit in the hub, bolt-and-washer may still work out OK.
My favourite improvised bearing press tools are the sockets out of a socket wrench set. There's just about always one in there that'll mate up nicely with the outer race.
For my inline skates, nothing has ever come close to the original SKF bearings. But for bikes I can't really say that I've noticed any other difference apart from "worn", "run in" and "new".
A puller can be handy, but I've usually simply tapped out the bearing from the other side.
Bolt and washer is a so-so technique. Bolt-and-washer will have you pressing sideways on the inner race (to some degree), and these bearings don't really like that kind of load.
Ideally, when installing a bearing (w/o the axle being present), you should seat a bearing by pushing on the outer race only.
Now, a bearing can take a bit of sideways load, so unless it's a really tight fit in the hub, bolt-and-washer may still work out OK.
My favourite improvised bearing press tools are the sockets out of a socket wrench set. There's just about always one in there that'll mate up nicely with the outer race.
#4
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I expect what dbac was talking about is that he already has a fairly complete set of sockets and just picks an appropriate one from the existing choices.
#5
Banned
Enduro is a 90% fill, all ball type bearing cartridge.
an angular contact bearing in a Hub
may be better than a radial contact type, if there is an adjustment, mechanism.
as they function like a cup and cone, the orientation is a factor when installed..
an angular contact bearing in a Hub
may be better than a radial contact type, if there is an adjustment, mechanism.
as they function like a cup and cone, the orientation is a factor when installed..
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