Anti-Seize Compound
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Anti-Seize Compound
I've been using grease and NoAlox, respectively, for steel-steel and steel-aluminum/alloy fit-ups to prevent seizing/galling, but I recently bought a bottle of Loctite C5-A to try out for this purpose. It's a greasy suspension of colloidal copper and is advertized as good for all sorts of metal interfaces (steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, copper, titanium, etc.). Anyone else tried this stuff? Reading the spec sheet, it seems like the ultimate stuff...even good for temps over 1000 degrees....
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Copper based anti-seize products are a staple of the category. I've been using neverseez brand for years, though it's probably overkill for most bike applications.
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I have used Neverseez for decades for high-temperature work on engines, like spark plug threads and manifold bolts. For lower-temperature uses like bikes I recommend Tef-Gel https://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor# Made for the marine industry, it keeps out water which leads to electrolytic corrosion. I use it on pedal threads, quill stem parts and the like; it should help keep aluminum nipples from freezing. NoAlOx for aluminum/aluminum joints on antennas and such where electrical conductivity needs to be maintained. Each has its intended use; the right tool for each job is my motto and a tube of each is pretty much a lifetime supply.
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The copper-based anti-seize is for high temp applications. Yes, it's overkill. The basic aluminum-based anti-seize is fine. I use anti-seize for threaded interfaces, a quality grease for other contact surfaces.
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I have a 1-pound can of Ni-based Never-seez that's 30 years old and still about 20% full. It has been used on sparkplug threads and bike bottom brackets and always works.
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The wheels on the bus go round and round............
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ght=anti+seize
Edit: personally, I love anti seize compounds in all their
variety because they make me feel special.............
Edit: personally, I love anti seize compounds in all their
variety because they make me feel special.............
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I use the C5-A quite a bit and yes, it is high temp. It is recommended for the threads on the gas cyclinder of M14 rifles.
But it works great on everything threaded as well.
Tom
But it works great on everything threaded as well.
Tom
#12
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Though not that Specific one, I dip the threads of each spoke
as I lace up a wheel, with that type of anti-seize .
as I lace up a wheel, with that type of anti-seize .
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I use grease and teflon tape in the cups, never a single problem.
With Italian BB just in case I put teflon tape in the cups and blue (removable) loctite in driver side threads, then put the cup... wait next morning and ready to go.
Both methods worked fine for me for centuries, even never gotten a single issue with UT cups.
With Italian BB just in case I put teflon tape in the cups and blue (removable) loctite in driver side threads, then put the cup... wait next morning and ready to go.
Both methods worked fine for me for centuries, even never gotten a single issue with UT cups.
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I like to throw a little salt water in there so in 5 years I can read the thread - How do I get this seized assembly apart - on bike forums.
My old bottle of grey is just about empty and picked up a bottle of brown.
My old bottle of grey is just about empty and picked up a bottle of brown.
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Thanks for the replies! I actually got the C5-A to use as an alternative to NoAlox on a Ham antenna I took down and am putting back up (I figured the copper would make more conductive joints), but I'm going to use it for seatposts, quill stems, etc. and see how it works.
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There are many types of antiseize,copper,zinc,aluminum,nickle,Ti...depending on what your trying to protect.Aluminum or copper based is more than fine for bicycle use.
Zinc based antiseize is the best for threads ...Like for regular nuts and bolts at ambient temps.
Zinc based antiseize is the best for threads ...Like for regular nuts and bolts at ambient temps.
Last edited by Booger1; 12-02-11 at 12:40 PM.
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