JoeRivz

Hi everyone, im assembling my road bike, with an old aluminium bike frame, which has a standard head tube 1".
Recently I bought a used threaded carbon fork, but it is too short, it needs something like an inch to thread in the headset. I also have a threadless headset, what can I do?

AlphaDogg

Can't use a threaded fork with threadless headset, afaik...

DiabloScott

You can come here for advice before you buy another fork.

FastJake

You need a new fork or a smaller frame. Threadless systems require forks with much longer steerer tubes than theaded systems.

JohnDThompson 

How much longer is the steer tube than the head tube? That will determine which, if any, headset can solve your problem.

onespeedbiker

I'm assuming you can use one of these. It would slide into your steerer and convert your steerer to 1 inch threadless. To be honest I've only thought of these as a way to use a threadless stem with a threaded steerer, using the extender quill like a stem quill, but apparently these are used to actually extend a steerer when they are too short for a headtube.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/3179651...7613725186134/

https://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/bbb-a...r-id21879.html

HillRider

It sounds like you wasted your money on the fork. If it is really 1" too short, there is nothing cost effective you can do to save it and if the frame has a threadless headset already installed there is no reason to use it at all. Either buy a threaded fork with the correct length steerer and install a threaded headset or buy a threadless fork and stem and use the current threadless headset.

Thrill Bikes

A quill stem adapter to solve a too short steerer tube in combination with a threadless headset (top) in my opinion should only be considered as an emergency solution, and would personally not recommend it. A star nut for a threadless setup has almost no chance of ever pulling out (if properly sized and installed). A quill stem (or adapter) is never intended or designed to keep the fork from coming out of the head tube.

Best recommendation would be to verify how short the steerer tube is, and check to see if a threaded headset is available that can grab enough threads safely to utilize your new fork.

AEO

I have seen someone use, I think a threadless adapter, for a raleigh R20 threadless conversion.

fietsbob

nothing sticks up when you put it in the frame?
The steerer tube, being metal , can be welded onto..
but I doubt you want to pay the fee $ to have a proper machine shop do that.

though if you have a few hundred to drop in the job it can be done,
Read of a custom framebuilder in Oakland California is one that offers this ..

seeking out a regular steel fork is probably a simpler solution..

FBinNY 

This is an OK solution for your problem. it's less than ideal in that it adds extra weight, plus requires replacing the headset and stem.

Structurally, it's only sound if the insert extends into your fork more than an inch beyond the last thread, so if your fork has more than 2" or so of thread, I'd pass.

Otherwise it's a question of cost. Compare the cost of the adapter, plus a threadless headset and new stem to the difference between a new fork, and what yours might bring on ebay or whatever.

Unless the fork is expensive, or unique, the smart play is probably to sell it and buy the correct one, but you can do the math and decide for yourself.

HillRider

Unless I mis-read the OP, the frame already has a threadless headset installed. So, if he wants to use the new threaded fork, he will need a new headset. If he buys a proper threadless fork, the matching headset is already in place. So, the cost optoins are: new fork vs existing fork+new headset. He doesn't mention having either style stem so that's an unknown.

fietsbob

Thinking possibilities.. NB it is a kludge..
hardly what a guy who would desire a carbon fork would want to do
but ..
a steel tube quill stem raiser , can be added , maybe JB weld fill in the fork threads.
and do the same in to get the joint between the stem raiser smooth
epoxying it into the fork steerer tube , solidly.

add one of those expansion type top caps,
then you can pretend like it's a threadless steerer which will be hidden
by the spacers that you put between the stem and the top headset race..

BBB makes a 22,2 OD quill alloy + keyed shim to 1" spacers, that might be tidier ,
but you have to find a dealer to get them thru I got one for a threadless fork

the thinner one is BBB BHP 20.. Bike Mine is the US distributor. BBB is based in NL.

no idea about Mexican distributor ..

FBinNY 

The adapter mentioned can only be used with a threadless headset and stem system, regardless of whether his fork is threaded. There is no practical option for a threaded extension, and quill stem for his too-short fork.

So you're right that the math is simplified, if he already has a threadless headset, and if the threading on his fork is shorterer than the insert's depth, than all he needs is the adapter, which is sure to be less costly than the spread in buying and selling two forks.

JoeRivz

Thanks to everyone. That's exactly what Im thinking, the adapter will do the job, and also will let me use a oversize stem which I belive is more common.
I have to take some special care with it (the adapter)? how long has to be the adapter part that fit into the fork? and the part that fit into the stem, how long it should be?

Pd1. I have two sets of headsets, threaded and threadless. I can use any of them, just tell me which is the better, if I use the threaded one, I have to pay something like 7 dollars to adapt a longer thread in the fork and use a vintage look stem, and if I use the threadless one y have to buy the adapter and use a "modern" stem.

Pd2. Enlish is not my usual languaje, any correction feel free to tell me. And sorry if I dont express my idea clearly

JoeRivz

You are soooooo right....

FBinNY 

The part of the adapter that goes inside the fork has to be longer than the threaded area on the fork. In other words it MUST reach below the last thread into the unthreaded area. If not there's a food chance that the fork will crack at the thread lining up with the bottom of the adapter.

The part that is above the headset must be about 10mm longer than the height of the stem (usually about 50mm or so) plus any spacers which you plan on using to raise the stem. The part pictured looks fine in both respects unless your fork has more than 50-60mm of thread, in which case careful measurement is needed.

As to the headsets, you have no choice. The adapter pictured will only work with the threadless headset.

BobLoblaw

I would not personally ride a bike set up as has been suggested. On a normal threadless headset there's one point of failure (stem/steerer joint) and two attachments (stem bolts and top bolt). In the scenario as has been proposed, there are three points of failure, any one of which will cause you to do a George Hincapie if it goes.

Sell the too-short fork and buy a 1" threadless. They are relatively easy to find and not awfully expensive.

BL

Asi

STEEL extender + carbon fork? How is this an upgrade?

sloar

call nashbar and get a new fork, not that expensive and save alot of hassle.

JoeRivz

Well the adapter is made of aluminium, that it's actually lighter than the original steel tube that the fork has, so there is not much extra weight, but the bike will have a vintage look so I think that a threaded headset will fit better and like BobLoblaw says theres more chances to failure if I use the adapter, anyway, in what case you use this adapter? isn't the same if my fork is long enough and I use it to adapt an oversized stem?

onespeedbiker

Joe, your missing a basic point. There is no way to use the adapter to lengthen the steerer that would allow you to use a threaded headset. If you use the adapter, you will have changed your steerer to a threadless steerer; this means you can not use a threaded headset. The adapter has no threads on it and the top portion is covered with a cap that holds the adapter bolt, so you can only use a threadless stem that bolts onto the steerer. Don't even consider having a section welded to lengthen the steerer; it's doubtful you could find a welder that could maintain the tolerances; make it straight enough to work. If you use the adapter, you would not need a star nut, as it would get in the way of the adapter; you would adjust the threadless headset with the same top bolt that holds the adapter in place. The primary issue would be if you have enough steerer to use the adapter. Here is a web site that discusses the installation. https://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#extenders.

Also, the adapter is not used to increase the size of the stem (you keep using the term oversize stem); it will still be a 1" stem. As long as the adapter goes far enough into the steerer tube so the quill clamp at the end is not clamping against the inside of the tube the place where the threads are on the outside of the tube, you will be okay.

fietsbob

Link :https://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/headset-parts/BHP-20/

dnomel

I'm not clear on what the situation is, sounds like maybe the fork is too long, with not enough threads, for a proper threaded setup, but too short for threadless. If you can get more threads cut easily and are ok with a quill stem, if that's the case, sounds better than an adapter to me.
If the fork is actually too short, and you could use that adapter to extend the steerer and go threadless, that would be interesting. Doesn't sound that good to me, but also doesn't sound much less safe than a normal quill setup. If your quill fails, you're probably going to crash whether your fork falls out or not.
With the fork in the frame, how much of it comes out the top?

fietsbob

Yea,Re reading, is rather unclear, so readers add answers to the vague ..

got a camera Joe? send pictures to help describe the situation more clearly..

are the threads too short or, is the fork too short for the frame head-tube.