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Clear-coating an Aluminum Frame - this might help
Hi, I just wanted to post this because it seems like from my forum searches, a lot of people were interested in the same subject. So I thought I would post what I have, and eventually I'll post pictures and results.
I am essentially trying to clear-coat a raw aluminum frame. Because it's a vintage Vitus frame (aluminum with bonded lugs that will not withstand heat), I can't powder coat it. If I could, I would, believe me! But, if you are like me and you can't, or if you just want to go the cheap route, there is this product: http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/adhesion/ It's a clear primer. It should stick way better than trying to paint clear-coat right on the frame. I'm going to start by using their prep spray, then the clear adhesion promoter, and then clear-coat on top of that. Anyway, I'll try and post results as to how this turns out! Either way it's going to look better than the chipped DIY spray-paint job that it had. I can't seem to get spray-paint to stick no matter what I try. |
Primer is designed to not be the top coat- it tends to be porous and have a "tooth" so that the next layer of finish will stick better. Best practice would be to cover it with something more durable according to th instructions on the can.
YMMV. |
Try a clear resin coating instead, like "Everbrite". Auto Enthusiasts and Motorcyclists use it to coat bare and polished cast sluminum wheels on their road/touring/show bikes and cars with supposedly great results. Best thing about it, is the clear resin coating is supposedly very easy to renew when it gets scratched up again and is "self leveling" so it is easy to apply.
Here's their link: http://www.everbritecoatings.com/index2.html Chombi |
Your link didn't show a price. The clear primers I have seen before were rather pricey.
Edit: not that brand, but advance auto showed a can for <$7. Definitely cheaper than the gun-applied stuff I saw. |
Originally Posted by demoncyclist
(Post 13705580)
Primer is designed to not be the top coat- it tends to be porous and have a "tooth" so that the next layer of finish will stick better. Best practice would be to cover it with something more durable according to th instructions on the can.
YMMV. Also, I finally found out what kind of bike it was! I knew it was a Vitus, but now I'm pretty certain it's a Futural model because it has the wishbone seat-stays. I sent the company an email, I'm trying to find out what year it's from. |
I covered my son's raw steel frame with Rust-Oleum clear gloss and I'm amazed at how well it has taken his abuse. I covered another raw steel frame project with brushed on gloss varnish, the varnish has held up very well.
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Originally Posted by Seanywonton
(Post 13711102)
(snip)
Also, I finally found out what kind of bike it was! I knew it was a Vitus, but now I'm pretty certain it's a Futural model because it has the wishbone seat-stays. I sent the company an email, I'm trying to find out what year it's from. |
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